I just came here to say that Ray Garbe at T.Rutlands was also very helpful to me in finding parts for my F355.
I agree. Ray and Brian at TRutlands have been very helpful and honest guys. I just now got off the phone with Ray. The only problem with Trutlands is that the shipping department and sales don't always communicate well (sales are in Wisconsin, warehouse is in Georgia), but they always make it right.
Had not noticed these plugs before. Likely there for welding and/or spraying rust inhibitor into the frame. This will go on my maintenance list for next winter.... pull all similar plugs and squirt LPS3 inside! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Am I the only one to appreciate the irony of a leaking gear oil drain plug being the impetus for this whole project, and the other gear oil drain plug found to be frozen in place?
I think they are to check for corrosion and eventually spray the Tuff-Kote or whatever corrosion inhibitor you prefer whenever you do the check/respray in accordance with the WSM. Mel did a good Thread on this. When there is a chance of your car getting in touch with moisture once in a while, I suggest to check at least on every service. My car had trapped water inside... came from Florida
I am so close. So close. I had 3 error codes on the LH bank (cylinders 7-12). They were injector #4, injector #5 and 1211 which is Lambda regulation. If the injectors were not firing, it made sense that the lambda regulation was off (too rich). The car seemed sluggish. I took the injector power rail off all 6 injectors, sprayed each terminal with contact cleaner, blew them dry and applied Stabilant. I did the same with the round screw-on connector under the intake manifold. After putting it all together the car now runs perfectly! It is stronger than I remember (amazing what running on all 12 cylinders will do). It runs cool and NO CEL's! Problem solved relatively easily. I took it out for a delightful 40 mile drive. So it looks like this major is done...but... now I have a problem with the AC system. Aaarghhh! The Ferrari gods have no mercy. 2 days ago I charged the AC system and everything worked fine, the front AC condensor fans came on immediately (they were replaced in 2015 - search for my thread on that pain in the butt event) and ran normally throughout the 20 minutes of idling. 60 degrees at the vents at idle. Seemed good. After the first test drive the fuse to the condensor fan blew (20 amp). I checked the connections and replaced the fuse and it worked again for a few minutes and then the fuse blew again. The fans should be pulling only 5.3 amps each. In the Dave Helms conversion the AC condensor fan circuit is outside the main fuse box and has it's own relay. Can a bad relay cause the fuse to blow? Any other thoughts? I can't bear the thought of pulling the front bumper off right now. Can I use a clamp-on ammeter to check the draw of the fans or should I just use my multi-meter across the fuse terminals? I'm depressed. I was this close...
If a piece of metal breaks inside a relay, it can cause a short, and either of those methods would be fine for measuring the motor current (assuming you have a multimeter that can make a ~20A DC current measurement -- most can only do 10A). Have you had a visual look to just confirm that both fans are actually spinning, or a quicky feel to verify they spin freely without a lot of drag?
Use this instead of LPS3, it's designed specifically for this with extension straws available: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/collision-repair-us/featured-products/cavity-wax-plus/
Steve, there is no visual or tactile access to the condensor fans in the 512TR without removing the front bumper. It's not difficult, just tedious and most likely inevitable.
Bad fuse. Both fans were working and drawing 13-14 amps. Glow fuses kept blowing. Replaced with a standard 20A blade fuse and voila, problem solved, AC functional.
Well, now we have a really big problem. I'm depressed. While out on the third low rev shakedown cruise, there suddenly came a high pitched metal on metal scream from the engine area, first intermittent, then loud and constant accompanied by the clutch pedal going to the floor. Shift into neutral, no change. I was cruising at 40 mph, not shifting, and the car was pulling strong up to this point.. I immediately got off the road and shut her down. Visual inspection showed nothing amiss, no odors or smoke. No leak of clutch fluid. I got back in the car and the clutch felt normal again, a high firm pedal, and I could shift easily between the gears . I turned the key again and the same noise, so I immediately shut her off. It took 2.5 hours to get the AAA truck there for the 5 mile trip back home. She is back in the garage now, but I am depressed at the thought of tearing the exhaust and clutch apart again (and the rear valance and the air filter boxes) . Not today. Maybe I'll feel better in the morning.
I'm so sorry to hear this. But don't worry, you had the balls to get where you are now, you will get through this. All will be fine.
Yeah, but it was running so nice. I initially thought that the Hill Engineering throw out bearing had failed, but now my bet is something let loose in the pressure plate or clutch disc. We shall see.
jim. this remembers me to my great old 3 cylinder 2 stroke kawasakis: sunday morning 1 hour riding and then 1 week repairing again you could hear if the noise coming from the clutch? what you mean exactly with this: going to the floor? so without pushing the pedal?
The noise started and I pushed in the clutch and the pedal went almost to the floor without resistance. I tried again and no clutch pedal, like it had lost all fluid. After stopping and poking around for 10-15 minutes, the pedal was normal again. I could not tell if the noise was coming from the clutch. I will have someone start the car in the morning (very briefly) with me listening.
I think there is/was still some air in the system. but this is not the reason for making the noise could it be that the thrust bearing is worn out, pressed the slave cylinder back and when you pushed the clutch pedal it was not enough way until the bearing touches the pressure plate? I wonder just now
I’m not ready to really talk about it yet, but Hill Engineering is not on my good list right now for their timing belt bearings. I know that no one has ever had an issue, well maybe not anymore. let us know what you find.
Hmmmm... would you please expand on that? I was under the impression that the HE belt bearings were better than the SKF.
