94 512TR 66,000 mile major | Page 13 | FerrariChat

94 512TR 66,000 mile major

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by JIMBO, Sep 9, 2019.

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  1. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
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    Oct 31, 2003
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    Jim DeRespino
  2. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
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    Oct 31, 2003
    1,321
    Bradenton, Florida
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    Jim DeRespino
  3. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
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    Oct 31, 2003
    1,321
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    Jim DeRespino
  4. JIMBO

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    #304 JIMBO, Jan 22, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2020
    Once the boot is in place, clean up any excess grease and put on your Oetiker clamps. Make sure the small end of the boot rests between the two ridges on the axle (you may want to mark this with a wax pencil).
    Place the clamp over the boot and tighten it down by hand as much as it will go until the little raised tabs fit into the corresponding cut outs. Then, using your Oetiker clamp tool to squeeze the raised portion together until it is fully tightened. Done. There were 12 stainless steel Oetiker clamps in my kit, so there are extras in case of a mishap. Mine were universal and needed trimming of excess clamp material with a pair of shears. Easy.
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  5. JIMBO

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    The inner boots are a bit more complicated. First slide the boot onto the axle. Then lie the CV boot on the bench (smooth side down) and fill it with some grease.
    Then gently tap on the inner (open) flange and slide the joint back onto the axle splines. Make sure all bolt holes on the flange and the CV joint line up exactly. Put the snap ring back in place and then pull the boot over the end of the flange.
    Then turn the axle on end and fill the outer side of the CV joint with the rest of the grease and tap on the outer (closed) flange. Install the two Oetiker clamps and one axle is complete. It's a messy job, but not nearly as messy as disassembly and cleaning.
    Remember, the flat side of the CV joint faces out (toward the snap ring).
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    The grooved side faces inward
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    Ready for snap ring.
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  6. JIMBO

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    Before re-installing the axles in the car, I had to grind down one end of the LH axle where it got bent whacking it with a 5 lb sledge to get it out. I then carefully cleaned the splines and grooves on the axles and on the hub in the car and coated the splines with anti-seize lubricant so that problem will never happen again. The axles slid in smooth as silk. Then slide on the big washer, tighten the nut and peen one edge of the nut flange into the groove on the axle so it will never move (I used a chisel).
    Make a witness mark with paint for reference.
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  7. JIMBO

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    tf308 and A348W like this.
  8. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
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    romano schwabel
    how can you relax during fishing when so many car things going trugh your mind? ;)
     
  9. MOSS

    MOSS Formula 3

    Apr 28, 2004
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    Two questions. The pattern on the flywheel surface lends me to believe that this car set for a long time as the grain pattern of the clutch plate is
    made a stain. The clutch plate should have cleaned that off even on a couple of engagements. Since its really not that feasible to accurately
    measure clutch plate wear why not just go ahead and put a new plate in, actually clutch and pressure plate while you have it at this point?
     
  10. JIMBO

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    It's a gift.
     
  11. JIMBO

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    The car sat for one week while the exhaust, etc was dismantled, and the clutch assembly was not disturbed for 6 weeks while the major service was done. Also, the engine was washed after it came out, so I'm guessing that might account for some of the stains. This 512TR does not sit still for long when all systems are working.
     
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  12. JIMBO

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    Dave Helms at Scuderia Rampante Innovations makes a kit to replace the rubber parts of the fuel pump assembly. Typically they degrade with time and end up in pieces in your fuel tanks and clogging the filter. Mine were remarkably intact after 25 years and 66,000 miles, but the surface of the black rubber parts rubbed off when touched. It was time for an upgrade.
    The kit contains a new white plastic sleeve, two thick black O-rings, two thinner brown O-rings and a large thin black O-ring that is not used in this application. They replace the black rubber fuel pump sleeve, the metal hose clamp, the vent tube (the white sleeve has vent holes machined into it) and the bottom 3-arm vibration damper. There is a photo gallery link when you purchase the kit which is helpful, but a few words make everything clearer, at least for me.
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  13. JIMBO

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    Here is the fuel pump assembly. Start by removing the 10 mm nut that holds the plated metal arms to the black plastic top. Image Unavailable, Please Login
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    Then remove the electrical connections to the pump body. For some reason, Bosch decided to make the (+) side a 7 mm nut and the (-) side an 8 mm nut. Push those wires out of the way and reinstall the nuts and washers finger tight so they don't get lost. Now remove the 17 mm nut and disconnect the fuel outflow line. Mine was on tight and I needed the help of a pair of vice grip pliers. After removing the fuel line, re-attach the copper washers and 17 mm nut finger tight.
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  14. JIMBO

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  15. JIMBO

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    Remove the 6 brass phillips head screws and remove the bottom plastic filter housing. Remove the corresponding top plastic housing. Then remove and discard the rubber sleeve around the fuel pump body. This takes some coaxing. It can also be carefully cut away since it wont be re-used. Then clean any residue left on the pump body with a scotch brite pad.
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  16. JIMBO

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    Now take one of the thick black O-rings and position it just below the upper ridge on the fuel pump body. On the upper inner surface of the white plastic sleeve you will see a deep groove. This first O-ring sits in that groove, but you have to wedge it into the groove bit by bit. A dab of "Magic Lube" helps. This is made for O-ring lubrication on pool pumps and is not a personal lubricant. Slide the white plastic sleeve up from the bottom of the pump and hold it in place while you wedge the O-ring into its groove. I used an old brake tool.
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  17. MOSS

    MOSS Formula 3

    Apr 28, 2004
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    Very impressed with your skill Jimbo! Very few can handle this kind of work.
     
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  18. JIMBO

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  19. JIMBO

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    Now place the bottom filter housing over the bottom of the fuel pump and nestle it against the brown O-ring. Turn the pump upright and slide the upper plastic housing down to meet the lower filter housing. There is another black O-ring pre-attached to the white plastic sleeve that might need a dab of lube. Re-attach and tighten the six brass screws.
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  20. JIMBO

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  21. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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  22. JIMBO

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    #322 JIMBO, Jan 22, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2020
    Nearly done. The remaining brown O-ring replaces the 3-arm vibration damper. This is attached to the bottom of the lower plastic housing with 3 dabs of RTV silicone placed just below the three attachment holes left by the 3 arm rubber piece. This is the only part of the kit that seems cheap compared to the precision of the rest of the kit and might benefit from a better engineered piece, but I understand it would have added unnecessary cost to the package. The O-ring should function perfectly and that's what counts.
    Voila, one pump is done. The second one goes much faster. Next we re-install the pumps in the tanks and the tanks in the car.
    Many thanks to Dave Helms and Mark for all their assistance.
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  23. JIMBO

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    The simple answer is $$$$
    I have to draw the line somewhere or I'd just be replacing perfectly good parts. Besides, I can get to the clutch if needed without removing the engine.
     
  24. JIMBO

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    Thanks, but if I can do it, anyone can do it. Trust me, I have no special skills.
     
  25. MOSS

    MOSS Formula 3

    Apr 28, 2004
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    Of course. Based on the flywheel surface im sure you have a good plate. Your engine is in nice shape. You are being very humble.
    I love to do my own as well but for most, these are not do it yourself rebuilds. Very nice.
     

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