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94 512TR 66,000 mile major

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by JIMBO, Sep 9, 2019.

  1. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    Jim DeRespino
  2. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    I DID finally get the LH axle out after soaking in PB Blaster again overnight and whacking with a 5 lb sledge. An impact hammer did nothing. I was so happy I went fishing and caught this bass. The pond is 50 feet from my garage.
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    EZORED, Camp Freddie and BOKE like this.
  3. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    I finally got the axle boot dilemma sorted out with considerable assistance from Ray Garbe at TRutlands. It seems the same boot was used on just about every Ferrari CV joint EXCEPT the outboard 512TR. They were apologetic and have ordered the correct boots along with the correct little clamps. I'll probably get them next week.
    Here you can see the difference side-by-side. New boot top, stock boot bottom. Note that the new boot does not slide all the way down the flange, making it impossible to apply the clamping strap.
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    Just to make sure the inboard side fit, I did a trial fitment and all is good. The smaller opening lines up with the notch in the axle shaft.
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    FYI, the part number for the outboard (wheel side) boots is 209184. On the photo I saw, there was no inner rubber lip. We shall see.
     
    turbo-joe and crinoid like this.
  4. JIMBO

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    Unfortunately only one boot arrived from Italy, so the installation of the boots and axles is delayed another week. After speaking with my friend Dino, a Ferrari mechanic, this is standard operating procedure when dealing with Italian suppliers and something he has to explain to his customers on a daily basis. So we wait.

    Meanwhile, the coolant system and fuel tanks/pumps were removed.

    Start by removing the shroud for the oil radiator (one 13 mm bolt - OK, maybe 10 mm)
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  5. JIMBO

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    After removing that shroud I found a part of the wiring harness (just to the right of the bungee cord) with 4 wires. The wire ends have no terminals and are covered in heat shrink tubing (looks factory). Anyone know what those wires are for? I did not think these cars had any options.
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  6. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
    988
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    Jim DeRespino
  7. JIMBO

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    Next remove the aluminum pipes that make up the firewall coolant system. Cut the connecting hoses gently after removing the clamps. Remember which pipes go where. There are also two clamps that suspend the pipes to the firewall (10 mm nuts). The small hose from the thermostat housing goes to the coolant reservoir and the hose just below the thermostat housing disappears into the central tunnel and goes up front to the heater core. More on this later.
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  8. JIMBO

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    #233 JIMBO, Dec 18, 2019
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2019
  9. JIMBO

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    The RH radiator came out like I knew what I was doing. On the LH radiator one of the 17 mm bolts was rusted onto the cage nut. This bent the plastic housing so the nut and bolt just spun. There was no room to get a wrench on the nut without cutting away some of the plastic. I had new Wizard Cooling aluminum radiators, so I was not too concerned. Even after all the chopping, the radiator can still be reused
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  10. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula Junior
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    Oct 31, 2003
    988
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    Jim DeRespino
  11. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula Junior
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    Oct 31, 2003
    988
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
  12. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    This is the inside of the black coolant hose that goes to the front heater core. Nasty. Replacement in silicone have been ordered.
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  13. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran
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    great job you are doing

    but when you write the bolt sizes it is very confusing to me ( and I think also to others ). in the metric system we never say to a 6 mm thread it is 10, 10 is the size for the wrench you need to open the bolt, but the bolt is a 6 mm. same as the 17 mm - this is a 10 mm bolt with a 17 mm head.
    standard european metric sizes are:
    8 mm head for 5 mm bolts
    10 mm head for 6 mm bolts
    11 mm heads for 7 mm bolts
    13 mm heads for 8 mm bolts ( older systen has been 14 mm heads, the japanese use 12 mm heads )
    17 mm hedas for 10 mm bolts
    19 mm heads for 12 mm bolts
     
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  14. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    Jimbo, I think most English speaking Americans understand you.
     
  15. JIMBO

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    Sorry for the confusion. When I say 10 mm nut or bolt I mean the size of the wrench needed to remove same. Almost all the fasteners take 10, 13 or 15 mm sockets, with a few 17, 19, 8 and one 36 (crank bolt) thrown in for fun.
     
  16. JIMBO

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    Fuel tank removal is a bit more time consuming. First remove the drain plugs and get out as much fuel as possible. Then remove the fuel filler tube from the LH tank by removing these weird hose clamps. Careful not to loosen completely or one of the little nuts will fall out. This is the type of clamp:
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  17. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    Jim DeRespino
  18. JIMBO

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    Now remove the overly complicated vent lines that eventually lead to the anti-rollover valve and the charcoal canister. Squeeze the open side with a pliers so the other edges come loose and wiggle them (again gently) off the o-rings. I had a photo of this but it did not come out. Here you see the o-rings
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  19. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    Jim DeRespino
  20. JIMBO

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    Now we go underneath the car. Remove the two underside panels that protect the tanks (a whole bunch of 10 mm bolts and washers. Place panels aside.
    Remove the shifter linkage. My shifter was working well, so I wanted to keep the same adjustment. Holding the connector steady, I measured the thread distance from the end of the rod to the nut, and then counted the number of revolutions (8) from start to fully backed off. The most forward locking nut will be left in place (mark with paint pen). On reassembly I thread connector back on until it touches the forward nut, and then turn the rear nut 8 revolutions (reverse thread) and thread the rod into the connector until it touches the rear nut and tighten
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  21. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula Junior
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    Oct 31, 2003
    988
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
  22. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula Junior
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    Oct 31, 2003
    988
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
  23. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    At this point the tanks will be be held in place by the rear portion of the straps and should drop down a few inches to allow access to the electrical and fuel lines up top.
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  24. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula Junior
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    Oct 31, 2003
    988
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
  25. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula Junior
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    Oct 31, 2003
    988
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino

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