575 Technical Thread

I am going to check a low mileage 550 and have limited experience with them. Forum has been a great source. Just wanted to ask how much time your guys think it will take an expert mechanic to check that the fuel pumps are ok? History is clean and a lot done to the car last 5 years - and nothing suspicious on the fuel pumps but would rather be safe. Thank you all

 

Hi,
I took the 575 out for the first drive at the weekend and noticed the oil pressure was at or close to 10 the whole time.
The car had been running for approx 30 minutes. Previously had moved the car a couple of times and pressure between 4-5.
Have spoken to the dealer and they said normal for a cold engine.
Doesn’t sound right to me and engine wasn’t cold.
Also leaking boot but seals seem fine.
I still love it to look at!
Any ideas appreciated.
Jc

 

As Taz says, either a pressure sender problem, or an internal gauge fault. I had the latter but with gauge showing a false zero at about 5 bar moving to a maximum at about 10 bar. Fixed by Patryk at Totaltronics near Rugby - excellent service - fast and not expensive.

 

Thanks for your responses.
I guess a trip to the dealer or are the sensor connectors easily accessed ?
Condensation may be the issue I’ve found it’s taken 15-20 minutes to demise and then after switching engine off mists up v quickly.
I did notice the circulation button was on when car was delivered. Wonder whether an air con issue?
She was serviced in October by a main dealer but only annual.
Even though a few annoying issues I’d forgotten how good a place the 575 is to sit!
Jc

 

mist on windshield=look here https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/141983692/

Yes, the sensor connectors are easily accessed

 

I wonder if the misting could be because you are in the classic trap of thinking its an a/c system which can be on or off - its not its climate control - the manual and especially the switch is unclear - pretty much whatever the weather: system on / set temp / air not recirculate & let it get on with it

 

Oil pressure transmitter is at front of engine near oil filters. To get to it you need to remove the engine undertray so you need good access under the car. First step is to try the connections for tightness, damp, corrosion. If it's the transmitter itself then not difficult to replace. Unit is about £110 to buy. If it appears to be in the instrument cluster you will probably find a main dealer will say the only solution is a new cluster. If you are happy to pay £3000 plus fitting then that's the answer, but see my previous reply for specialist help.
Easy way to check boot dampness problem is to spray the area from outside and see if there is any new leakage. Either way it sounds like there is something amiss in the aircon, maybe just blocked drain tube, maybe not switched on!

 

Pleased to say misting has stopped so I’m hoping lack of use and aircon being set on recirculate when I bought it was the problem.
If not I’ll check out the drain.
The pressure seemed ok today but only a short journey.
For a number of reasons I haven’t driven a Ferrari for over four years so it will take a lot to remove the smile off my face.
In the past I’ve covered 35,000m in a TVR and 30,000m in a 355 in a year so solvable and not too painful problems I can cope with!
Here’s to a better 2021 for all.
Jc

 

I had a sudden «high oil pressure» and it was the sender unit that went bad. To access it on a 550, you need to loosen the anti sway bar to get the tools on the sender. And to do that, you loosen the brackets up front, and to get to the upper nuts, the front wheels need to come off and the inner plastic covers inside the wheel arches too. On both sides! I replaced it in my garage with the car on jack stands and put on a new sender. Quess what..? After one week that new sender showed the same high pressure again.. But not «red low oil pressure warning light». These senders have two circuits. One for the gauge and one to activate the red low oil indicator in the display. Which never came on. So I guessed the new sender also went bad which is pretty damn sick when the last one was probably from the car was new in 1999. So bought another one and got it replaced next time I changed the oil. And that one has now worked perfect for 10.000kms.... Quite interesting experience. The oil should be between 5 and the upper «3/4» mark at idle when cold. Whenreally hot and idle, it can go almost to the 0, but as long as it does not show «low oil pressure» (shows as a red oil fill can), it is not dangerous. I have only had that one come on one time, and that was during idle for over 2 houres in Paris’ worst traffic jam at 32 degrees C. I had to raise the idle to make the pressure light go away when the oil was 125 degrees C. Coolant temp almost at the red line. It was one of the worst days of my life. Killing my own favourite car... But it does not seem to have had any later problems after the occation. Engine runs like a champ at 156.000 kms. Good luck! And post some pics of the car please!

 

Erik,

The oil pressure sender on a 550 is in a very vulnerable place and pick up a lot of road grime. Often it's just a dirty connector plug and socket that cause the high pressure reading. The sender and gauge are absolutely fine.

Try cleaning up the plug and socket with something like Wurth Contact Cleaner OL and see if that corrects the problem. If it does clean the old sender's connector. It might still be good.

Consider getting Ricambi America's sender boot: Oil Pressure Sender Cover


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It was developed by John Cribb six years ago. I purchased two of them. for my 550 and F355 Challenge, when they were first released. I haven't had a problem with my oil pressure senders since.

Barry

 

Just figured I’d check. That SoCal Rosso Corsa converted 575 now has the special full exhaust with headers on it too.

 

Hello Taz
Long time no write. Sorry, Tried to PM but does not seem to work now?
I hope you are well and staying clear of this nasty Covid stuff.
I am still well and still in Hong Kong and still have the 575 SA and now with about 20,000Km to its name. Still going well.
I happened to dig into the CDROM that you once sent me but it seems that it needs a password which I have either forgotten about or lost.
Might you know what it is?
Thanks, regards and very best wishes.
PAUL
p.s. I saw a while ago that you have moved. I trust that all went well?

 

BELAY THAT> SOLVED IT> WORKING NOW!

 

Hi gents. Can we top off F1 fluid ourselves?

 

To add context, the F1 fluid light has temporarily illuminated 2X. I’ve ordered Tutela CS - hopefully it’s what is currently in the car. Is there a way I can check through the tank in the engine bay?

 

Joe the F1 reservoir is just in front of the drivers side rear wheel. You will need to remove that forward inner well liner to access. Unscrew the black cap on the white reservoir and fill to marked level.
Fill slowly as the reservoir is oddly shaped internally and takes very little fluid to move the level. There are other older threads with alternate fluid options to use.

Also in regards to your headlight thoughts. Use caution when going into the headlights. Those parts are very fragile in there and getting spares from Maranello don’t come fast if at all. The silver vs gray would look pretty cool in certain color combinations.
Bill
FL
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Thanks, Bill! Does the wheel need to come off to access?

 

For ease of access I’d say it does. Possibly with car on a lift you might be able to get in there. I don’t have that luxury.
I took the posted pic as a reference point for my fluid level.
Bill
‘02 575