I´m always afraid when I see the engine out by using the intake manifolds or you only use those just now to put engine and gearbox together again?
This is an Awesome thread ...any one like this for a US 512 TR ..would love to tackle an engine out this spring ..thanks Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Yeah, me too (a new movement ) would not trust the cast alum to hold and it appears in many engine out services. Esp TR varients. Dave, my next service can I send my car to you, as Paul N. is in Canada.
I took the starter out and used nylon lifting straps. One thru the starter hole, and the other around front pulley.
New pilot bearing is tapped into bore. After cleaning the bore, a new rear main seal is coated with Pliobond on the OD and tapped into place. New Tensioner Bearings are mounted. The previously rebuilt water pump is mounted in its bore, once the new o-ring is coated with engine oil. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
why you used the expensive F pilot bearing ( about 30 US $ ) and not a standart from SKF or F A G for less then 10?
Is this the SKF bearing number in question? https://www.motionindustries.com/productDetail.jsp?sku=00134149 I did contact our local SKF distributor branch to confirm pricing and availability vs. the on-line price since SKF was the OEM bearing. As you can see, its not $10 That's not to say if you shop around you won't find better pricing then shown here, but for difference in the Ferrari priced bearing I didn't see the point in that exercise.
because of the price I was looking at ricambi america and there it is nearly 30,- , but when you only payed 10,. then it is more than ok
Timing Drive Pulley Spanner Nuts Torqued With the flywheel installed and locked to the PM1-6 position. Using a crudely made, and down right ugly, but effective spanner socket was made using a 24mm 1/2" drive socket and a clicker torque wrench. The two spanner nuts are torqued to 95 Ft lbs. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I cannot speak for all areas, but I noticed that the local bearing suppliers have been mostly bought up by the larger distributors (Motion Industries, etc).. the result is that relatively common SKF, F-A-G, etc bearing prices have gone up a lot. Last year I found the increases to be anywhere from 3x to 10x...crazy prices to say the least. Cheers, Sam
https://www.bearingboys.co.uk/SKF-Ball-Bearings/622022RS1-Sealed-SKF-Ball-Bearing-113098-p?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp8Kv5tnt2AIVpbXtCh1R5wcxEAQYAiABEgJdWvD_BwE UK price for the SKF 62202-2RS1 is around £11-12 inc tax. I just couldn't stop myself looking after reading the above comments.
Good day TerryG. As a comparison to our prices here in Canada... The price from your distributor (less tax) is £9.50 which is about $16.57 CAN and here in Canada it is $32.01 CAN: https://www.motioncanada.ca/productDetail.jsp?sku=00134149 A few years ago this bearing was less than $10 CAN... Cheers, Sam
. Once the Timing Belts are installed it will be time to Degree the Camshafts. We had quite a discussion during my last engine out thread 10 years ago see page 3 at http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/boxer-major-in-a-not-so-mega-garage.173325/ regarding the use of piston stops to locate TDC and verify the flywheel marks. Circling back, and reading reviews on them on line. Buyers report some include a warning "not for use with dome pistons". I have some concerns with using even the spring loaded type on this engine especially with the steeply angled spark plug holes. I may just follow the factory flywheel markings. That is Unless... Has anyone reading this thread ever heard of miss marked Ferrari 512 flywheels? Camshaft 6mm Journal Nuts Torqued to 78 inch lbs. Water Pump Impeller Nut Torqued to 20 Ft lbs
I thought the preferred method was using a dial gauge and it is tdc as soon as dial gauge stops ?? I thought using stop method takes in account dwell which Ferrari did not Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
I would say yes with new belts. Say there is a small tolerance in the belt teeth, could change the timing. The marks on the cam only get you close.
Installing Timing Belts, Tensioner Bearings, and Setting up Cam Degree Timing I did a search through Ferrari Chat, searching threads or posts that might be tagged "incorrectly marked flywheel" or anything tagged with flywheel marks an found only on hit. A 308 owner that found the flywheel pointer inaccurate by 1/2 a degree. The general consensus from others replying was if it was an F-1 car it might matter. I did use the piston stop supplied with my Degree Kit but was extra cautious to ensure moving the flywheel it didn't make hard contact with the top of the piston to prove the flywheel marks and pointer are indeed accurate. Well.... Maybe not F-1 accurate. . The flywheel pointer was located on PM1/6. The camshaft notches aligned with the cap markings. New Timing belts and tensioner bearings are installed. The retaining nuts are tightened but not torqued yet. The degree wheel was attached to the crankshaft using the harmonic balancer nut and thick washer behind the disc as a spacer. The temporary pointer is installed and "zeroed" at TDC, as well as mounting the DTI. Starting with cylinder 1 exhaust, the crank was rotated clockwise (looking towards the back of the engine). The opening was measured. The crank was again rotated to check exhaust close. Cylinder 1-6 exhaust cam has the following readings: Opens: 53 deg BBDC (127 deg wheel reading) Closes: 10 deg ATDC The same procedure was used to check the cyl 1-6 intake cam The readings are: Opens: 12 deg BTDC (matches flywheel marker "AA") Closes: 52 deg ABDC I am satisfied with cylinders 1-6 exhaust and intake cam timing. The flywheel pointer was relocated on PM 7/12 and the degree wheel and zeroed with the degree wheel's TDC mark. The dial indicator mounted to read cylinder 7 intake and exhaust. The following reading were measured: Intake opens: 12 deg BTDC matches flywheel marker "AA" closes: 52 deg ABDC Exhaust opens: 54 deg BBDC closes: 10 deg ATDC Rechecked cylinder bank 1-6 with the degree wheel and DTI. The cam timing procedure is now complete but I may circle back on a few to double check. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
with what valve clearance you adjusted the timings? on my koenig BB I first have to set the valve clearance to 0.5 mm on the first cylinder, then adjust the timing and then change the shims again to have the right valve clearance
Valve clearances were stated on post# 14 of this thread. Is your Konig BB fitted with stock Ferrari cams? I've never heard of the procedure you state being applied on a stock BBI.
my koenig BB has none stock cams when you have a look at the WSM for testarossa 84 - 91 there is also standing on page B48 table 9 a valve clearance for timing adjustment for intake and outlet from 0,5 mm because of this I thaught at a BBi it will be the same procedure? unforntunately I don´t have a WSM for BB or BBi but may be our BB specialist paul newman may give a statement?
I checked the WSM and there is a small section on page 43 regarding a .50mm timing clearance. I'll look into this. Thanks for the tip.