328 - Recovering the rear window molding.

Is it the parts around the rear screen (4 pieces) or the side windows? Have taken them all of my car so should be able to help.

 

I've done it on a 328 GTB but I think generally that area is pretty similar between the models.

To remove the molding (the interior vertical piece that wraps around the length of the rear window, with the interior lining material, right?), you do not have to remove the glass.

The molding is held in place with two bolts that screw in from the back wall, at the back of the engine compartment. The screws are hidden by the sliver aluminum molding behind the fuel lines.

Unscrew the straps that hold the fuel lines, move the lines out of the way (you don't need to disconnect them, just move them down and out of the way enough to take off the aluminum molding, and you will see the two bolts and nuts that hold that molding in place.

Now, the question I have is, do you need to remove the flat shelf pieces in order to remove the rear molding? I don't know the answer to that. On my project all those pieces were removed but I don't know if the window molding can be removed without the rear shelf pieces.

-F

 

Parts 31 and 32 are held in place by one bolt each, pointing down, going through the rear shelf in the engine compartment (was that clear as mud?).

So if you reached back in your engine compartment, back to about the middle of those parts, you will feel a nut screwed onto the bolt. That is what is holding in each shelf piece. I'll see if I have some photos of the area.

-F

 

When I redid the entire interior of my 328 GTS lat year, I removed the entire set of covered bits in the rear window/shelf area. Not counting the stupid rear center stop light cover, never to be used again on my car, there are 8 pieces, some aluminum, some fiberglass. You do NOT need to remove the rear glass to do the interior. In my case, the aluminum heatshield between the rear bulkhead & the engine blocked access to the 3 bolts that hold the vertical interior trim piece in place, so without disconnecting anything in the engine compartment I wound up cutting the cloth away at the 3 bolt locations and just drilled/ground out the molded-in bolts from the cockpit side. When this was done the bolts just fell thru & out on the engine side. After removing the fiberglass panel, I filled in the holes in the fiberglass (JP Weld worked fine) & I selected 2 locations for very discreet Philips screws to hold the panel in place, near the panel ends, which worked fine. Of course I had to carefully drill 2 new pilot holes in the rear bulkhead for the new screws; I placed the new screwholes as far to the ends as the drill and screwdriver would be able to fit. The screws cannot really even be seen, being black on black in a dark corner.

Everything else is pretty much straightforward, take your time. I chose to recover the panels with a black vinyl, to match the original black vinyl dashpad. As the trim panels aren't exactly smooth, I first covered them in a thin cloth-backed 1/8" sponge rubber padding, used mostly to recover the trunks/boots of bars. Most trim shops should have such stuff. Over that material, I used the black vinyl, having matched the understated leather-like texture to the dash material. It cannot reasonably be told apart from the original material. I might add that as I'm tall (6'-4"+) the miserable, oversized center high stoplight blocked my view, so I finally replaced it with one I made myself of hardwood, painted black, and fitted with 2 very, very narrow 12 volt LED light strips. very thin, very bright. I reused the original plastic connectors for wiring the new lamp strips. At some point I'll post photos to show how this came out. The new light covers the old hole in the top panel, and uses the same type black screws for mounting, but shorter ones as the entire fixture is some 1 inch thinner, and barely projects below the edge of the rear window. Nice!

BTW to do this required that the black rear window grilles be removed, which is pretty darn tricky. Fitting the rubber seals back in after all the interior work is done is REALLY tricky. I got so frustrated on the driver's side screen that I took the car to a glass shop, where it took the guy a few seconds to fit it in again. So much for MY expertise.

Anyway best of luck. I recommend replacing the stupid cloth with vinyl, much more practical, easy to clean. Anyway nothing else in the vehicle matches the cloth, anyway, so who cares? I also understand that not every 328 had the cloth, but I have no specific examples to offer, sorry. I just thinks it looks better in black anyway; God only knows why the factory used the cloth to begin with. Aarrgh!

Cheers,
Rich

 

There was the "extended leather" option, which consisted of the whole "parcel shelf" in leather and the roof liner too. It was the least costly of the option's list, and it is a pity that so few cars has it, because it brings a nice touch of class to the car; my GTS has it from the factory.
You can't see the leather liner under the Saratoga top, of course...so I've posted a pic of the original top also.

Rgds
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Removing the windows isn't that hard, the use of professional window fitting tools helps together with knowing how to use them without ruining the rubber. I managed to do it but it wasn't easy, as I said. The really tricky part is accessing the screws & holes to refit the swing-out grill panels, the black louvers with locks that conceal the gas filler on one side only. Removing the glass & louvers makes working on the interior trim panels much easier, but at a cost. If you do remove the rubber seals, remember to use lubricant to refit the rubber. Glass shops use special nylon paddles & other small tools to work the rubber seals. Perhaps you might try doing it without removing the glass, etc. At one point I sure wish I had!

Cheers & good luck,
Rich

 

Hello everyone and to nerofer in particular.
How did you dismantle the roof cladding?
Thank you in advance
Chris

 

What is American English for "cladding?"

 

Roof trim? anyway google says cladding

 

Would it be possible to just "tuck" the material without having to remove the pieces. Seems like such a chore to remove those tiny things.