400i water pump help ?

Looks like a good choice to me.

"The Big Greasy Thing", I can't wait to see it going back in.

 

Not exactly Brettski but I am trying. Water/oil pump off and clean and going back togeather.
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Aidan,

The answer is no, Vantage Motors of Stamford, Ct.. John must be awfully busy not to have responded.

Bruce

 

I'm gonna have to stop logging into this site; pipe just blew on my water pump....
My starter went while I was reading about others on F-chat too...

Are these thing contagious?
Only saviour, at least I was just at my garage

 

Yours is over 30 yrs. old, s**t happens.
On the bright side, once repaired, you're good to go (at least for that particular repair).

 

Hi blkprlz,
My '71 Rolls Royce gives me no bother at all.
I knew Ferrari's are LOVE/HATE but c'mon...

Anywho these things are sent to try us. I'll have a mini rage and get back to work.
It was just going so strong, loads of power and great sound, I'll miss it for a while!

 

Never hoped as much that Brett's wrong.

 

i admire your commitment Fritz...if i can be of any assistance at all then please don't hesitate to ask.
good luck,

brett

 

Hi all,
Well I'm not too bad the pipe's just burst.
BUT looks even tighter than Brett's pics so will have to "whip out" the pump.

Few questions
Is it an engine out job?
Do I need to remove the timing chain?
Can I just unbolt the pump , mind the oil seals, and re-fit? Please say this is the way....

Thanks again for all your help and encouragement.

Cheers
Niall

 

Also, What parts will I need?

Thanks again
Niall

 

This should work on any C4 motor.
1. Cut a length of generic coolant hose to the same length as the original or even a little longer.
2. On one end of the hose with a side cutter (wire cutter or small tin snip) make 2 cuts exactly opposite each other. These cuts can be anywhere from .5" to .75".
3. Apply silicone grease or spray to the hose.
4. Slide the end without the cuts onto the longest pipe.
5. Using a simple brake spring tool work the flaps of the cut end of the hose around the other pipe (it will go on very easily).
6. Adjust the position of the hose so that the slits are below the sealing bead of the hose.
7. Replace the clamps and you're good to go.

 

Good work!

 

Glad I changed this before it failed. All of the other hoses looked much better! I used silicon hoses from ****************.com for the whole cooling system.
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Dear all,


I have just done this hose exchange and wanted to share some findings.


I have taken the liberty to update the description from above with my findings. And I also want to give credit to all input received including procedure description from “AgSilver” and later “rovexienus” as I would not have tried this without them.


Here is my “updated” procedure list.


1- Car on a lift or on jack stands in the front. (I did jack stands)

2- Safely drain the old coolant from the bottom of the radiator.

3- I did not remove any items from the top of the engine, all work was done from below and by myself.

(remove the items for better access: alternator, belts, even air filter box on the passenger side (if the car is injected, perhaps other items to remove for access)).

4- Remove the old clamps and cut the old hose on the side and remove.


5- The pipe ends will be dirty and need cleaning before fitting a new hose. I used a dull knife and some abrasive paper to clean the ends. Remember to cover the water pump end to avoid debris to fall in. I used duct tape to cover the hole.


5- Cut a new hose from rubber or silicone coolant hose. Diameter is 38mm and length is original 55mm. I cut a 68mm hose (reason see below) and used a rubber hose.

5- Grease the inside and one outer side of the hose. Some use WD40, some use silicone and I used dish-soap to “grease”.

6- When “greased” the new hose can be pushed up on to the upper (longer) tube with some force. I used a small piece of 12mm plywood on the hose end to even out the force over the entire hose when pushing so that the hose would not crumble. Place it so the greased outer side faces down to reduce friction.


7- Once the tube is well up on the long tube it stays there. At least mine did. I then used Ag Silvers method and with a side cutter (wire cutter or small tin snip) made 2 cuts exactly opposite each other on each side. These cuts can be anywhere from .5" to .75". I did 10mm.

(this deviates from original description as I did the cuts with the hose in place. It was very difficult to get the hose on with them done prior as the hose would then crumble under pressure)


8- Using a simple brake spring tool (or other non-sharp tool) work the flaps of the cut end of the hose around the other pipe.


9. Adjust the position of the hose so that the cuts/slits are below the sealing bead of the hose, ie push it as low (towards the water pump) as it will go.


10- Secure both ends of the new hose with new clamps and make certain that the lower clamp is above the cut, which is no problem with a longer tube.


(I also changed the other coolant tubes to the radiator when I have all of it down. They are 40mm rubber coolant tubes)

11- Re-fill the coolant

12- Check for leaks