365 BB Chassis 17553 Nut and Bolt Restoration

Any updates?

 

+ looking forward to seeing your solution for the famous seat material!

 

Congratulations Chris on your purchase, Definitely one of the most compelling cars Ferrari has ever made. I love seeing how many of these cars are going through restorations here in this section. Having Paul do a full restoration is a dream, I am excited for you and cant wait to watch all the yummy details unfold...

 

Yep, we took the car to Quail, it was a fun show, the third time I have been fortunate enough to show a car there although its been 10 years since my last showing. You will need to bring the BB once finished.

The show has changed so much over the 16 years I have been attending. Its such a manufacturer show now whereas in the past it was 100% FULLY RESTORED vintage. The quality, rarity and amount of vintage Ferrari's being shown has definitely changed. That said, its still a great event and I highly recommend attending to anyone who has not been. Its so much fun to immerse yourself with like minded individuals. Here are a few pics...



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Great car. Great color.

 

Plenty of updates to come. Ill add pics shortly.

 

I was getting withdrawal symptoms

 

Im always surprised at things I find when I go through these cars but I shouldn't be, there's always something questionable and this car is no exception. I still have trouble believing the owner didn't notice a performance reduction with a 3 point reduction in compression ratio after a rebuild but Ill admit the car wasn't slow.

So the engine is completely apart down to the liners and the choice of silicone did two things. Squeezed the o-ring liners off their tapers but the volume of sealant also saved the assemblers butt preventing a leak. You can see the liner o-ring displaced in the pic where the liner is still in the block

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Not sure why the pics are small, I was having trouble attaching them and did click full size image.

There was a sale on black silicone.

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Panels are all in polyester primer and curing. Fitting the panels next to check shut lines and alignment

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Okay I figured out what I did wrong with the pics.

Here's a few more.

A liner after I cleaned it up prior to going to the machine shop.

Last pic shows the black o-ring completely out of position and the orange sealant taking its place.

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Pistons will be ready friday so Ill see them maybe Monday.

 

The rods had a lot of material taken off to weight match them and it's a combination of early and late rods where the early rods taper a lot below the wrist pin and the later rods are almost straight and much beefier around the pin. Second pic they almost eliminated the I in an I beam rod making it a T!

I had a set of mint late rods so we're reconditioning them and running them instead.

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Left rod is an earlier version, 1974 and a 1977 on the right. Without scouring parts books I don't know when the change took place exactly but we have it narrowed down!

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great info, Paul!

 

Right rear clam side has a good dent that was half-heartedly pounded out and filled. Its an easy fix that we'll metal finish.

Letting the primer cure then onto panel fit etc.

Pistons arrived, stock compression ratio but 3 ring design.
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The shiny bits look wonderful but any word yet on that material for covering the seats?

 

The shiny bits matter! As for the seat material I've been working with someone for a number of months now to get the correct material made. Fingers crossed.

 

Something I noticed with the main bearings is the current arrangement from a previous rebuild vs what Im used to on the 512 and testarossa. They're on the opposite banks they should be and the parts book (although not gospel) backs up my thoughts. To me the solid bearing shells should be on the right half, the oil supply comes from the right half including the top end. With the solid bearing shells on the same side as the oil supply it forces the oil to take the long way around to feed the mains. They only get fed from one side anyway but the advantage of restricting the supply (or the ease of supply) is it keeps oil pressure up and encourages the backed up oil to find another path. That path being the cam oil passages. Now even though the bearings are swapped bank to bank it proves it doesn't make the engine go chernobyl even long term. Ive always wondered if I mixed them up during a build what would happen and Im always paranoid about the bearings since most on a flat 12 have a specific location they want to be. Maybe under extreme circumstances the engine would fail prematurely? Who knows but I like the bearings the other way around. Fully grooved would be nice too but oiling holes on the left half only.

Machining starts tomorrow.

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could the wet sump have something to do with it?

 

No the oil supply is the same, the dry sump is just an addition. The bearings should be swapped bank to bank to be as designed.

 

Chris, Just saw this and I had my Dino there (won 6 cyl. Dino award) and now feeling sad our paths didn't cross!

 

Preparing parts for plating and painting / coating.

Steering arms are yellow zinc, spindles black. Gas pedal will be powder coated then mostly hidden by a new rubber cover. Most of the linkage is natural.

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