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365 BB Chassis 17553 Nut and Bolt Restoration

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by cnpapa24, May 11, 2019.

  1. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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  2. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    Love the factory schematic.

    There's a few wires for the reverse lighting that have been replaced no doubt because of its proximity to the mufflers that I want to replace again but in the correct colors.
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  3. Newman

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    What's strange is the most protected section of harness inside the cabin under the console had pinch or compression damage in a few spots. Not sure if that was the way the factory did it considering it was a new model with teething pains or if it was after the fact as it passed through various owners. The harness sheathing was cut open from one end to the other to address this but they didn't do a great job, just lots of electrical tape. I checked each wire and repaired as needed as seen below then I put the new sheathing on.

    The harness is the 2nd thing Ill install in the car, the a/c box being the first item. A 512 the harness goes in first.

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  4. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    Long post sorry.

    Not everything is fun in a restoration.......Things that come to mind are wiring harness restoration, running the central hoses and brakes lines from the front to the rear and fuel pumps. Suspension is fun, putting the engine in is fun, road testing is even more fun!

    Today I dealt with fuel pumps and Im pleased with the outcome. I purchased 4 rebuilt corona fuel pumps, the problem is rebuilt and looking new / correct are two different things and these pumps are complex to say the least. Well built and overly complicated which makes them a royal pain to deal with so here's what I did.

    Previously I had some motor housings yellow zinc plated from a set of junk pumps with the thought I would need them in the future. The pumps I bought need the motor housings plated and one needs a wire replacement to be correct looking. The motor is on top with a set of brushes on an insulated plate. The second section is the cast housing for the brushes which also contains the magnetic drive hub. The third section is the actual vane pump housing then a plate on the bottom. Its cool that they separated the motor from the fuel section with a magnetic drive but its also what makes it complicated and difficult to restore / take apart. The other issue with that magnetic drive is the pump can be seized from varnish buildup over time yet the pump sounds like its working. My 79 played that trick on my when I bought it and Ive seen others do the same. Out of 6 pumps I have sitting here to cosmetically restore 1 has a seized vane pump.

    Back to the motor housings. You can't plate them with the magnets inside because it can demagnetise them and they'll also collect a ton of debris from the tank making them look like a sea urchin. The magnets are retained by 2 spring plates AND glued in place, of course breaking a magnet gives you more north and south poles than you want so you need to hold your tongue in the right position when taking them out. Then in the bottom is another clip holding the armature bushing in place with an oil soaked pad to provide lubrication. A clip designed to go in but not come out. After you've overcome those hurdles you need to reverse the procedure and figure out how to hold the magnets and spring clips all at the same time, compress them down in diameter and slide them into the housing (with adhesive in place) and also orient them so that the raised dimple inside the housing aligns with the hole in one of the spring clips.

    Taking the center section apart is a different kind of fun. Press the armature out of the magnetic drive watching to not lose the 3 thrust and spring washers behind it. Unsolder the terminal that holds one brush lead and the main power line, disconnect the brush springs and another clip designed to not come off then you can pull the wire out including the plastic wire plug in the housing itself. Cut the wire off and drill the wire out of the plug so you can pull a new one through it then add a red shrink tube sleeve.

    With the magnets back in the proper place, wire soldered and hub pressed back on you can put the motor housing back on and test it.

    Add the sticker at the end (I had some made on a foil backing so they dont crumble like the original paper ones do)

    If the casting needs to be plated forget it, I've tried. The yellow look is the release agent they used in the mould during the casting process like Weber used for the carbs - same result you can't duplicate. Anodizing them makes them black, a chromate conversion coating makes them brown, cleaning them makes them grey and blasting makes them silver. Paint them or leave them are the only options that I have found. If someone has another solution Im all ears.

    Im very happy with the finished pump below, only 5 more to go....


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  5. TerryG!

    TerryG! Karting

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    Nick - what's the latest on the seat material?

    btw I'm temporarily off Whatapp!

    Terry
     
  6. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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  7. Newman

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  8. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
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    I love your focus on the details Newman and thanks for sharing. This is what makes the difference on a ordinary restoration and a top notch job that will stand up for many years to come. By the way I really like to mess around with wiring harness, I guess it's all a matter of preferences...-:)

    Best regards Peter
     
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  9. TerryG!

    TerryG! Karting

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    "Newman said:
    Long post sorry."

    No need to apologise, I think. The level of detail in your posts matches the quality of your restoration work - all greatly enjoyed by me. Thank you.
     
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  10. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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  11. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    There's always hurdles to overcome on any restoration and in this case the a/c lines are one of the biggies because you can see them and it matters!

    The 365 uses Aeroquip lines that are covered in braided cloth like the fuel hoses. Thats a BIG problem! Aeroquip stopped making that hose years ago and because other classic domestic cars use it, people have been buying it up. Aeroquip uses reusable fittings vs crimp sleeves and some companies wont let them reuse the ends on new rubber lines due to liability reasons. I get it but it sucks.

    My first few attempts at finding new hoses from Ferrari failed so I continued searching for bulk cloth covered hose. No luck, its all been bought up and I can't get it. I figured okay Ill suck it up and go with smooth rubber like the 512's and move on because Ive tried hard but then I tried Ferrari again. Turns out I was able to get 3 of the 4 lines NOS so persistence paid off!

    Im very pleased!

    First 3 pics are the original lines.

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  12. pshoejberg

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    Great find! Can NOS hoses withstand modern cooling fluid like R134a or will you run the aircon on R12?

    Best regards
    Peter
     
  13. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    The correct compressor cant keep R134a in for long so the lines are moot in that regard.
     
  14. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    You are much better off with R-12 in the older Ferrari's if you can obtain it!
     
  15. pshoejberg

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    R12 is nice to have I know, but unfortunately impossible to source in my part of the world.
     
  16. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    Some shops in the US. scavenge from older cars, and clean, filter and reuse.
     
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  17. EZORED

    EZORED Formula Junior
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    I have bought cans on ebay and craiglist here in the USA.
     
  18. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    here in europe I see no chance to buy anymore
     
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  19. Newman

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    My next hurdle.....make the plastic look clear again

    Ive read some interesting processes to do this anywhere from just straight peroxide (tried it, didn't work) to a chlorine generator carefully adding it to the peroxide / hydrochloric acid mix. Pretty cool stuff as long as my face doesn't get blown off in the process!

    I should't say the peroxide didn't work, you can see the one on the left is lighter than the one on the right after I let it soak for a day in a 2% solution. I may up it to 10% before trying the chemist approach.

    I need to do 4 and at $400 US a piece for repops without brackets Im less than interested in buying them.

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  20. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    but then check every 2 hours, not that the plastic will move away :(
     
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  21. Newman

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    Ran the carb parts through my sonic cleaner yesterday and today for an initial cleaning and inspection.

    Carb chokes are 34mm on the 365, 512 and 308 are 32mm, my Koenig has 36's.

    When it comes to the carb castings you have two choices for finish. Hope they're in nice enough shape that you can clean and reuse them and retain the gold hue from the weber factory or aluminum oxide blast them making them look perfect but incorrect bright silver. Sometimes bright silver is the only way to save a carb thats beyond saving otherwise.

    You can see the accel pump housings are not all the same color, the silver ones actually do have some gold on them but the camera changed it. The carb body and lid castings themselves are very nice but not absolutely perfect, probably weren't when they were new either. They have some patina which makes it more honest in my opinion and better this way than incorrect.

    The clear zinc clutch levers are pretty basic. They have needle bearings in the pivot but the pin holes are about as low tech as you can get especially the small lever. "Quick, drill a hole in it Guido, its lunch time!"

    Later Ferrari ran spherical bearings in levers like these.

    Over center clutch assist has a double spring, 308 uses a single spring, 512 hydraulic.

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  22. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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  23. dwhite

    dwhite F1 Rookie

    Just clear it and you got one of them new fangled colors: chalk, clay, dried mud :)

    This car seems to be moving right along. Beautiful

    Quick question, do you prep the parts for plating or have the plater do it?
     
  24. Newman

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    Reminds me of Harley offering a color called battleship grey. Its primer with clear coat in my opinion. Ford and Dodge are just as guilty.

    Yes its moving along quickly, the car arrived in my shop last March.
     
  25. Newman

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