01 360 spider with 10k miles on it. It has been ticking loudly lately and dropping oil pressure. Ferrari has had it for a few weeks and says it is a cracked exhaust manifold, that it is losing pressure because of it etc. Total parts and labor to fix is $7500. Does this sound right / is this common? I know it was for the 355 when I had one, you would think they would have made sure to avoid it the next time around.
For much less than $7k you could upgrade and buy some Fabspeed headers. More power, better sound, and they shouldn't crack, ever.
That sounds very high, I can provide you with forum pricing for Fabspeed headers. PM'ed more details.
They can also be rebuilt with new tubes, saving the original collectors, then re-shielded with the original steel shields. .
Just a FYI... Verify that its not a Manifold GASKET that's failed first. This results in exactly the same symptoms and sound (ticking). If you replace the gaskets (cheap part) then you may find its a very cheap fix indeed if your prepared to do the work yourself. Not too hard, you tackle this job from the inner wheel arch (remove the rear wheels and inner arches to get reasonable access). When I bought my spare engine and gearbox they came with 'free' headers and cats (ok, not free but I negotiated them into the deal). I then upgraded to fabspeed headers and Kinetix cats (after trying hyperflow's which where louder and heavier), so ended up with 2 sets of spare 360 headers and 2 sets of spare cats! These are all Euro spec ones though so if anyone has an issue with headers or cats and they are in Europe let me know. I will give members them for exceptional price as they are essentially 'doubled' up spares for parts I have upgraded. Btw, I love the fabspeed headers (lighter and stronger and they make more torque and hp). If your going to the trouble of replacing the headers you may as well do the cats too. These make such a difference to mid range torque and make the car feel much better.
I'm still curious what a cracked manifold has to do with loss of oil pressure. Will the OP please update this info?
One exhaust manifold is around $5000. Gaskets for one exhaust manifold are around $400. $7500 to replace an exhaust manifold sounds about right from a Ferrari dealer.
This smells fishy. Get aftermarket headers, which solves the disintegrating precat issue, saves a lot of money, and you'll have better exhaust flow which means more power. It'll be louder too. Unless they are dealing with a costly oil pressure issue separately their estimate is double what I paid a good independent shop to install ceramic coated Fabspeed headers.
I don't know what gasket your talking about but a gasket itself costs a mere few dollars in the Uk. Its nothing more than a bit of thin metal cut out.. Ferrari SKU Part No. 151064 Ferrari 360 Modena - GASKET - Part No. 151064 - NEW, $20. Ferrari Parts, Accessories, and Performance Products - Ricambi America, Inc. I think that in the Europe we pay much less for the same parts... at today's exchange rate its about a quarter of that price for each gasket! So about $5.89 each gasket. So that equates to less than $50 to replace all 8. New headers cost about $2,000 while used ones from parts suppliers are about half that but sadly they don't have US emissions kit fitted, the air injection lines on or additional header cats (a good thing if you ask me!) so they make more power.
If a $5 gasket is leaking (common thing by the way) then maybe he means an uneven idle at tick over with a loud 'ticking' noise. In bad leaks the engine ecu's will drop its idle and then it will try to correct (as the ecu's notice) and the raise the revs, and the drop them again leading to uneven sounding rough engine.
Hey 360Trev I'm trending to the same result - I have some swain coated fabspeed heaters sitting on the bench, and i have been eyeing kitetix cats. Aside from being concerned a bit about measured sound at laguna seca, I have not determined how to get around the CEL light issue with any satisfaction. Thoughts? Still would like to pass smog without playing tuning, and swapping back and forth games.
Nathan, Euro cars don't have this problem but I know people whom swear by these... O2 Simulator Mini Cat Cel Fix best oxygen sensor simulator made.
you mean you just don't get a CEL because of the ECUs not seeing as big of a change by just swapping to a lower cell cat vs. in the US where the ECUs expect the pre-cat as well? If that is the case, I wonder what is cheaper - finding a euro ECU set or getting a tune.
Correct. If your tuner is a guru they can indeed change the bit settings (or brute force patch the code and re-checksum it) within the Bosch ME7.3H ignition ecu's that control whether CEL is triggered or not, effectively disabling it in software. A remap will improve power and torque massively (expect 20-30ft.pounds more when remapped properly!), especially if you do a full on system. headers, sports cats and free-flowing system.
Everyone is biased against "euro" cars... but here is one more case where euro cars are better. Haven't had to worry about this header crap and CELs...
Trev is right. Failed gaskets are common. I had one in last week, was leaking so badly the slow down light had come on and the fuel adaptions were all over the place. Won't affect oil pressure though.
Aren't you the guy who I sent the almost new Challenge Stradale engine mounts to, FREE, including paying for the shipping to the UK, and you said you would send me a very nice thank you gift but actually sent nothing? At my age, the memory gets fuzzy...
Smoke test it to see if the manifold is cracked or the gasket is leaking. Oil pressure is something else. Even if idle drops like a missfire out there is going to be idle oil pressure.
Sorry I am slow in responding, not on here much. Ferrari of Long Island originally thought it was a gasket. When they pulled to check it, it has a cracked manifold. I got a pm from Evan @ Fabspeed, I am going to look into things. I just glanced at some of the comments, shall see what I do. Also, for people bustin on the Euro v. U.S. Car, the car is a euro spec car that was brought over from italy. They said the crack in the manifold was resulting in a 45-48% drop in power, and as such the oil pressure was dropping at idle, but otherwise fine when driving. Considering the compression on these things, and what a massive loss in backpressure will do, I believe it. I might have a video of the car ticking somewhere. Also, its only when the car gets warm, if its cold it idles fine, but as it warms up goes down, to the point where if you are idling when warm the red light will go on, but if your driving the oil pressure is good at the recommended rpm. Which was fun trying to figure out because the car is a euro car, so even though there is an english section in the manual, its using the imperial system and I had a big ol cheat handwritten cheat sheet I made up to convert Bar to PSI while I am 6k rpm. Car has the ferrari racing upgraded exhaust put on when I bought it. Its plenty loud when the butterflys open up. Ill look into the header thing though. I've only had the car since february, and its been in for this for a few weeks, and another 2 weeks for when the roof was out of alignment and took a chunk outta the ragtop cover, they fixed and painted that, so I am pretty much telling them they better fix this too, i.e. I'm not paying for it. If I end up paying it, dont see a reason not to go with aftermarket.
