We removed the exchanger. We over tighten the clamp and it made it worse. I am going to replace the exchanger, boots and clamps. It is time anyway before his time. Any suggestions. Thanks guys.
Replacing the heat exchange is your decision unless the force you applied actually damaged the unit Once you removed the boot ..was the boot damaged or were both boot and HE damaged ? I find it hard to believe that you damaged the HE ? Look at the unit does it look like the little tubes are badly corroded ? All that being said if you got either the panel off and water pump off ..or intake off and removed HE .. seem like the right choice to just do it Which way did you remove HE ..water pump removal or intake removal? Anyway look like you pretty much have the job in hand just a matter of putting things back Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
Hi flash. Unfortunately my we Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login tightened the clamp until it was fully tight. But this caused the clamp to bend and not hold unifrom pressure arond the boot, causing it to leak. The exchanger is in perfect condition,no corrosion, my coolant is green and clean and the boots also are in fair condition. It has some signs of wear and tear, but there would be no problem putting it back. All that being said I am going to replace the exchanger, boots and clamps. The car is 17 years old, after all this work removing the pump assembly, belts, and bumper, we might as well change the heat exchanger. Take a look at the pictures and let me know what you think. Also when I removed the exchanger I found this curly piece of aluminum, it looks like it’s been in there since the motor was machined.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
That is one clean exchanger .. it may be the pic but it is a little oval / dented on one side ? Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
Yes little dented, but from the cabin side it was like that when i toke it out, the clamp around was perfect. It probably is still good. But i dont want take a chance. a question. The new one can u intall ider way? Or has a direction? Does make any difference if you turned it around when intalling the new one?
I would try to match up label not sure if it makes a difference .. i don't think offsets and thread sizes are different but not sure of internals Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
Guys. Putting back the heat exchanger what is the torque on the gearbox lines banjo bolt? Thanks gyus. Image Unavailable, Please Login
According to WSM 49 nm And you asked in another thread about coolant Many people will give you different answers I like G48 and use that now .. some may suggest G05 which I used to like as well but changed my thoughts recently The Key is to try to replace every 2 years regardless of miles Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
I went to few places looking for the green coolant. I found this at autozone. Not sure if it is the right one. Also i am replacing the gear box oil. What you recommend? Image Unavailable, Please Login View attachment 5257267
no that is not a good choice - use amazon and buy zerex g48 Another debate is oil for gearbox ... many many and many threads on this - so not sure if there is a perfect answer I like eni rotra lsx and ravenol vsg Another choice is Redline NS that others swear by If you do a search here you can read for hours
Zerex G48 50/50 or concentrate ? Green color? right now i have green in it. I want to be sure 100% Thanks Flash.
No G48 is blue like original one in a 360 .. not sure what you have in it but since you have everything apart maybe time for a good flush with distilled water and then use g48 to obtain a 50/50 mix Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
If you don't want to flush ..maybe use peak global ..not my first choice but mixes with green and is pretty good Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
I m going to flush the sistem. Run the car for 20 with distilled water then flush again and use G48. This distilled water is ok to use it?
I started to read about the gear oil. And i got so confused. I have a f1 is the mobil red line 75w80 good for the gearbox? Everytime i change the gear i hear the gears kicking even after i did my mejor service. My meccanic said it is normal.
Yes this is good .. but no need to buy name brand if you can get a generic brand Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
The whole gear oil selection is confusing ..the concern is the balance of protection and that the oil actually can eat away at the brass parts inside The First two oils i mentioned (harder to get ) are advertised as good for what we are looking for ..if you can get them great The redline is also a good choice After that..oils like mobil 1 valvoline gear oils are good oils but the question comes up about brass parts F1 or manual .. 75w90 .. same gear box in both The f1 system is separate as you know and that is more of. Atf fluid Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
Choosing a gearbox oil is a huge debate. Ferrari recommends GL-5 rated oil. However, GL-5 is caustic to brass, the metal used in 360 sychros. GL-5 is recommended for differentials, but GL-4 is best for transmissions. 360 transaxles have both. Rifledriver, a professional Ferrari mechanic reports that he has had to replace many synchros as a result of using GL-5 rated gear oil.
Lol, are you trying to start another oil thread? Ask five people who have researched oil what to get and you'll get four different answers. That is a GL-5 rated oil I believe, but it doesn't even try to market itself as synchro friendly. Personally, I would go with Redline MT-90: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002INX20C/?coliid=IUUUW0RQSSJUE&colid=3NYG1OKE66REX&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it or, if you wanted to follow Ferrari guidelines and use a GL-5 rated oil use Redline 75W90ns: https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-58305-75W90NS-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B00YKHULJO/ref=sr_1_16?crid=27AUTBT296OGY&dchild=1&keywords=redline+75w90&qid=1614808691&s=automotive&sprefix=redline+,automotive,221&sr=1-16. At least RL GL-5 oil markets itself as "Improved copper corrosion protection to prolong synchro life" (whatever that means).
Either use the redline NS or this (i like this better) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QL31M3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_T4NK6F08ZKVP6YQEMW8S Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk