I'm not sure whether to write here or in the Technical Q & A section, but here's my question: Is there any specific maintenance particularly for the convertible top of the 355 Spider (lubrication, etc.) ? My car has 34K miles, and every once in a while top stops midway during the "top down" process.
Check the center bar that runs across the entire length of the top. On the manual 348, this bar must be pressed up to lower the top and pressed down to raise it. On the F355, this same bar may become stuck or wedged, requiring manual intervention. Other problem areas for the 355 top include running out of hydraulic fluid. Check your hydraulic fluid reservoir and fill if necessary. There is also a bypass switch in the 355's center console that will lower/raise your top even if the position switch on your driver/passenger seats has malfunctioned (a typical problem). In order to get your F355 top down you may have to resort to the emergency tools. They are located next to the parking brake. The top mechanism bolt is located behind the drivers seat. As you turn it, the top will raise or lower. In order to bleed the F355 hydraulic top system you put the top into full down position and then hold the button in the down position for about 10 seconds (with bleed screw open). Then put it up and continue to hold it for about another 10 seconds (while keeping the reservoir full of fluid). Image Unavailable, Please Login
#1 thing to do as ND mentioned, is to check the reservoir and top up with hydraulic fluid. This should be checked immediately, then every year or two from then on. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=136063978&postcount=6
Soap and water on a clean cotton rag/towel applied by hand to the top cloth. Rinse well and don't put the top down before the top has fully dried.
Recent '97 355 Spider purchaser here--love the car. About the top--how long do y'all store yours in a top down psotion? I have heard everything about how long it is safe to leave the top down. Considering the hassle over the tonneau, etc, I would prefer down as long a possible. Thanks.
The claim is to leave the car with the top in the up position, but mine is kept down almost all summer long...raised only to secure the car if parked in the evening outside while at a restaurant, or to wash it (rare since I prefer to clean it with "Speed Shine"). So it can go two or three weeks, or more, before being raised for a few hours. I know others that do exactly the same with their 355's with no adverse effects.
Not a problem! Just after long-term downage. If and when you do bring it back up. Do it after driving, the heat from the motor makes it very soft/pliable and should go back up without incident
348 Spider owner here. I never used soap on the top. I always wet it down and dried it with a terry towel. I used about 1-2 drops of car wash soap in the 2 gallons of water, which was luke warm, to suspend the dirt. Air dry. Every other year, depending on outside exposure, I applied waterproof impregnator. Go to a BMW dealer and get the convertible top resealer. Follow the directions. You clean the top as above, let it dry then apply the solution which is mixed with water. Before that step, however, I took painter's blue tape and de-linted the top (I have cats, so fur is in everything). You can use a lint roller too. Before the resealer dries, wipe it off the paint/trim or it will film. After the resealer dries, your top will be waterproofed and darker in color. This makes black tops really sharp looking. I only left the top down for 2 weeks at most, then put it up to keep it stretched and nice looking. The back window is tricky to keep clear. Keep it moist with Zymol Vinyl. If it opaques too much, MaGuires makes a plastic polish. BMW also sells a 2-step product for restoring the transparancy.
Thanks everyone. I figured as often as you see these cars pictured with the top down as opposed to up it should not be a huge issue.
Goth-man - go to a BMW dealer and get the convertible top resealer in the parts department. It's great stuff and fool proof. For you, get it at Long Beach BMW, I'd guess. Use the whole bottle - don't be cheap and try to save the stuff. It's on the shelf against the wall with their car care products.
I just use the "heavy duty" silicone spray for tents and tarps, I buy it at the local ACE Hardware store. $7. I reapply every year or so. I mask off with blue masking tape and cut open plastic garbage bags. Works great....nice to see that water bead up so nicely when driving in the rain...yes, I DRIVE IN THE RAIN!!! I live in Seattle you know...no "garage queen" here!
Dave didn't anyone tell you that silicone + paint = mess? Be really careful about removing any silicone product from paint or issues can arise when u need new paint or paint/clearcoat repair later - even much later. It's no biggie; just make sure to scub off whatever gets on your paint including wheels.
You did not read my post...."I mask off with blue masking tape and cut open plastic garbage bags." Plastic and tape prevents any silicone spray from getting on any paint. BTW, I have two friends that are autobody painters, and understand the importance of not getting silicone on the paint...but it is not the end of the world if you do...they just need to be extra vigilant in their prep work.
Nah, I saw that. I figured u'd be careful, but I wanted to just reinforce what u already know, I guess. And yeah, it ain't a big deal if u do, just have to get the crap off that paint, which in most cases means removal of the wax as well. May I suggest that my method is soooo much less complicated? But if u like spending time with ur car, I could see it.
I agree with vvassallo, any body or paint guy will say silicone is nasty stuff and most will throw it as far as they can!!!! can you say fish eyes???
My dealer said to just go get the stuff from the Mercedes dealer, as that is what they use. I don't think it is very critical what is used. I am using Pentosin CHF 11S semi-synthetic hydraulic fluid, which a friend (former Ferrari factory tech) recommended and is what they use at the Lambo/Jaguar/Bentley dealer he now works at (he's the head Lambo tech). Here is the product description: "Pentosin CHF 11S is a special synthetic hydraulic fluid with a temperature range -40° C up to min. 130° C., within which perfect operating is guaranteed. Due to this fact Pentosin CHF 11S is especially suitable for a variety of hydraulic network and steerings of latest vehicle developments, where the applied fluid has a direct influence on safety and driving comfort. Pentosin CHF 11S guarantees a perfect operation of all hydraulic systems, such as power steering, rear axle steering, level control, hydropneumatic suspension, shock absorbers, active damping of engine fixtures, hydrostatic drive for fan, generator and air condition, stability and traction systems (ABS/ASR/ASC), electrohydraulic cabriolet top actuation, central locking systems etc. Pentosin CHF 11S is therefore not only used in many vehicles of well known european automotive manufacturers, but also in engines of agricultural and other special vehicles. 1 Liter. " About $25 per one liter can.
Great information Dave!! I took the cover off and the reservoir is nearly empty. How do I get the fluid in?? I loosened the bleed screw and realized it is not the filler......where else?? Never mind, I found Ferrari_tech's post on another thread: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=135095225&postcount=2
Here is the whole procedure that i wrote for another ferrari forum some time ago. Hope it helps someone.....or not Well its that time of year that i check,fill and bleed my hydraulic roof system of my spider. So i have decided to document it for anyone who gives a dam Tools needed: Allen key 13mm spanner X-head screw driver Standars hydraulic jack oil 1/ Move both seats of the spider right forward. To reveal the x4 screws, two on each side (picture 1 and 2) 2/ Remove the 4 screws, there are two on each side. Then pull away the cover and pull out the little leather coverd disk that iso the passenger side of the cover. This will reveal the emergency hood switch, (Shown also in pic 2) 3/Looking at the front of the pump and relays under the cover you will see X2 allen bolts ( pic 3) Undo these and pull the loose unit electrics and hoses to the passenger side. Pulling it to the passenger side makes the job of seeing and undoing the 13mm center/filler nut in the middle of the pump easer, ( Picture 4 & 5) 4/ Undo this 13mm filler nut (pic 5) 5/ Now moving the front electrical and hoses unit back to the center. You will be able to see the hydraulic fluid reservoir min and max markings (pic 6) 6/ If there is fluid to be added then add the fluid throught the hole that the 13mm bolt was removed from. 7/When the level is up to the Max line then replace the 13mm bolt and replace the electrical and hose unit, and replace the allen bolts. 8/ Now the unit needs bleeding. If the unit has been left to drain right down befor you re-filled the pump. Then this following procedure should be done over two days due to the vast amount of air bubbles....bear with me 9/ Using the emergency over ride switch (pic 7) You will see that on one side there is a "O" for open And on the other side a "C" for .......shut Becourse the seats are already forward the cycle of the roof will not afect the seats Press the "C" switch and keep pressing untill the roof has fully closed and it is important to keep the switch pressed for about 3-4 seconds after the roof has closed. This is done so that all air bubbles are forced out of the system and into the reservior. Then press the "O" switch and again as the roof completes its sycle of opening, again keep the switch pressed for a few seconds longer to release the air from the system. 10/ Do the above again so you close and open the roof three times. 11/ As said above if you have allowed the fluid to get bellow the "min" line befor filling. Then you will notice the bleed fluid geting frothy, this is due to excess air bubles. Leave the car untill the next day for the bubbles to settle back to its fluid state. And the next day rebleed. 12/ Fit the pump cover back on and the emergenct switch back in the side. Put the seats back to there standard positions and test the whole cycle with the normal roof switch.and the jobs done NOTES: The type oil to use is either the expensive ferrari hydraulic oil Or the same viscosity oil can be found in standard Hydraulic jack oil (Pic 8). I have been using this oil for some two and a half years.....recomended Ok now....carry on....as you were.....men Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
