Replace thermostat and both senders to be sure. Should fix things. It did for me.
I'd change/check the sender first. The temperate difference between cruising and idling look about right but the temps are low.
I took mine out on a nice 150 mile trip this past weekend. While crusing on the freeway (ambient was around 50) at or around 80 it was a steady 7, dropped to 6 when I had to put the heat on and when I stopped at a drive thru it stayed right at 10. Normal driving, if I'm going more than 45 it will drop close to 7, otherwise it's constantly around 8; but in heavy stop and go or if I'm stopped at a light on a hot day I can see it get between 11 and 12. Fans kick on right at 10. I should also mention I used to get much more variance until I had the thermostat replaced last year, it would constantly be going between 6 and 12, since then it hangs around between 8 and 11. And yes, somehow my car, which was first sold by Ferrari of Beverly Hills, has a metric temp guage. No, I don't know why. If anyone has an idea please let me know. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Not sure...just call them and ask for the unit for the 355. They'll know what to send. Simple as that
To ensure that proper temps are maintained to keep A:F ratio correct and minimize chain dysfunction, I understand that the thermostat needs to be operating correctly. I also understand that part #40 -water temperature sensor should be replaced. But, there is one other part that determines or influences this metering as it relates to the water temp management and I believe it's on the L radiator. Is it part #25- temperature switch? If not, what is this part?
I worked on a car that had all the sensor's changed and was still running a bit hot.The problem ended up being a faulty gauge which is very common on italian cars.Try a heat gun first before replacing any parts. Michael
Mine is the opposite, when idling after warm up the temp stays around 11-12 on the scale above and the fans are running, is this normal?
In post #67 and other posts, this is mentioned. No idea what this means?? Like many, including Skippr, my temps at cruise are 165/167 which must be too cool. I am chasing some fuel trim issues and think this may be part of the problem.? So many posts speak of faulty, out of the box thermostats: is this still a concern? Are the genuine OEM units at issue? Still? Can someone post specific brands/part numbers for thermostats? I live in a hot climate and am inclined to get a 82' thermostat, but have no problem with using the 328 (128991) 86' unit if it is better to have higher temps. Old school thinking was to keep temps lower, but modern car technology has them running a bit warmer. Updates?
Does the ECU modify fuel flow based on varying coolant temperatures or is there simply a single temperature which determines if the car runs in open or closed loop. If the latter, isn’t the "cold" temperature below your running temperatures? i.e.140F. I thought the inlet air temperature sensor was the one which varied fuel flow over a range of temperatures.
I simply changed the thermostat and the two sensors with parts purchased from Ricambi America, I believe. Problem was solved
Removed thermostat and tested in a pot of hot water, It seems to begin opening at about 180 and fully open at about 200. How quickly should it close once temp goes back down to 180'? I did not realize that the Tstat is not binary, but shouldn't it be nearly to fully closed once temps drop to or below 180? While the temps are dropping, it is still slightly open at 164'? Can a thermostat be "slow?" Reason for ask is that my car runs very cool while cruising above 45 mph. usually at 167, and sometimes at 171. I have replaced the LH radiator temp switch, the ECU temp sender, and the gauge temp sender. Trying to decide if I should opt for a higher temp Tstat like 86 or 87'? Is this a bad idea for a car in very hot and humid Florida? Also, the only markings on my thermostat is 82A7. No manufacturers info, stamp, or additional numbers. What is on an OEM unit?