355 ENGINE OUT (with 4 post hoist) THE SAFE WAY with pictures

Mike if you check the 355 DIY sticky I think I referenced it there along with a lot of others

 

For you guys that DIY'd the belt change, where did you find instructions to remove the engine? I downloaded the 3 volume service manual and don't see instructions on how to remove the engine. Transmission removal is in there, but not the engine.

 

Check the 355 sticky on diy

 

Let me give you a quick run down.

Remove engine lid,
Disconnect battery, remove gas cap, under panels, rear wheels, wheel liners.
Drain oil, gear oil, coolant, disconnect clutch line, brake lines
Remove air boxes, cross over pipes, intake pipes, idle valve
Disc exhaust top cover, vacuum hose to bypass valve, vacuum control line, secondary air injection pipes, disconnect o2 sensors, Battery + wiring, shock control connectors, TCU connectors, and TCUs
Remove bumper
Remove bypass valve, pull back on Y-pipe
Remove coolant cover, coolant tank, power steering reservoir
Detach oil tank from body, detach oil hose from right side oil cooler, remove fan
Disconnect fuel lines to fuel distributor
Disconnect fuel vapor return line
Remove shift shaft
Disconnect ground at bottom of oil tank
Disconnect L/R ABS lines
Support engine, remove 12 bolts at the front members, 4 bolts at the top, 4 large bolts at the rear
Engine drops away

 

If you do a search you will also find checklists for both the f1 and the stick

Heres another one we use

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355/234071-355-engine-out-4-post-hoist-safe-way-pictures-post138561024.html#post138561024

 

Hi Chris,

I am pondering doing my service this year and I have a 4 post lift so I am looking over your thread carefully.

I don't think my garage is as deep as yours and consequently with my lift up against the front wall as far as it will go, in order to get the rear of the car back far enough for the sub frame to drop free, The back of the car will end up being under the garage door.

I think I am going to have to move the remaining party of the car forward on the lift in order to close the garage door for the time that I am working on the engine and then move it make again of course.

I want to check all this carefully. It appears in your pics that for ball park sakes, the car is moved back to where the rear door seam is aligned with the back of the rear post of the lift. Would you say this is correct? I am trying to determine how far back the car need to be to allow the sub frame to drop and then measure everything in myy garage.

Thank you

 

Bob you're exactly right. When I did mine the car needed to go back far enough such that the doors wouldn't open. The car is hard to move forward without the rear wheels. Leave the top unlatched so you can get into the car.

 

Thank you Mark

I have a bridge Jack for my lift so I will be lifting the rear portion of the car using it rather than the bottle jacks. The bridge jack has rollers but it's not meant to be moved front and back once you lift something with it but it does roll. Lifting the car taking the engine out and then moving the car forward using the front wheels and the rollers on the bridge jack I suppose Is possible

I have to measure from the rear door seam to the back of the car and then measure from the back of my lift to the garage door to see whether or not it's going to be a problem requiring me to move the car forward in order to close the garage door after I get the engine out

 

I had this issue. I got creative. I put it on the hoist sideways. It worked great.
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You are the only one I know of that has the space to put the car on sideways. For others, here are some tips.

1. You open the door before you push the car back to overhang the lift. That way, the door is sure to open when the car is in position for the engine to drop out.
2. Once the engine is out, you use a furniture dolly and appropriate number of 4x4 under the car, forward of the gas tank, and push the car forward to be totally over the lift so you can now close the garage door.

Good luck. There are pictures somewhere of this.

 

I remember Dave made some nice dollies that bolt into the subframe holes. Not sure if he sells them.

 

Be careful with this as I know someone that had a dolly slip and it resulted in rocker panel damage.

 

He dosent make them.but he did provide his drawings to make the ones he designed.

 

Not saying my way is any better, but if you do have width (like a normal 2 car garage) and not 1.5 cars depth (like a normal garage), it is an option. I wish my working garage was deeper.

 

Correct - we have fee drawings for download on our website:

Ferrari F355 Caster Plates ? Free Drawings ? Sticky RX Refinishing Solutions

We might make some down the road as a few have asked us for this.

Also, the casters can be ordered with a swivel lock (to keep the wheels straight) so that would be a great option for this application. No need to worry about a dolly slipping but the casters would hand off with the motor dropped so you would still need to move the car forward a bit to get them on the lift ramps.

 

Thanks Mitchel.

I'm pretty sure I can accomplish the move forward using the roller ability of the bridge jack. I'm thinking of putting a come along on the front wall and using the tow hook might be handy

 

I just did some measuring. I can move the lift all the way forward to the front wall and that will give me 57" from the back end of the rear post o the door. Chris said it was 58" from the door to the back of the bumper so it seems like I will have to move it forward.

I just looked at the bridge jack and the roller mechanism supports the vertical weight capacity of the lift so I don't see any reason why it would be a problem to use the rollers and move the car forward that way.

I have one other issue that Chris didn't have and that is I cannot get my ramps to go horizontal. The pic shows them in their max horizontal position. I dont think this is a deal breaker as I will just have the rear tires on a bit of an incline. Once i use the bridge jack and lift the car and take off the tires and ramps it shouldn't matter. ???

Also my ramps are shorter than Chris'. Do I have enough horizontal ramp length to get the car back far enough given this limitation?
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The ramps should not matter. Bring the car back to the proper position and just jack the car up from the rear (perhaps use the HF jack spanning arm recently posted) to level the rear of the car. (or don't use the ramps and use some 2 x 10's.) Then use your bridge jack to lift the car as needed.

EDIT - I cannot tell from your photos - how wide (front to rear of car direction) is the bridge jack? It may be too wide. You need to get the jack points to very close the sub frame connection point (ass of car hanging off the lift to that point). If you can't get the bridge jack pads to the very end of the lift ramps, it's not going to work.

 

And here is an OK photo that will show how close the rear lift points are to the subframe
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If this pic sets the required relationships between the car and the lift for/aft and no better, then It may be close for me to get the bridge jack on the factory lift points and get the car back far enough without running out of track for the bridge jack.

I may be a matter of a few inches and if Chris is back 3-4 inches further than needed that will give the room I need.

I'll get the car on the lift and see how it lays out.
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Here's the bridge jack specs. Looks like about 8.5" in front of the end of the track is the best I can do. It looks like its real close ot not working or working.
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Using the factory jack points is certainly an option and since you have a spider, a better option as you don't need to worry about buttress loads.

Picking up on the unibody frame near the subframe connection is better in my opinion and the pros I know use the that location over the factory jack points.

Your bridge jack will probably fit if you use those locations just be aware that is near the CG of the car so if you use them, I'd add some weight to the front or strap the front wheels down to be safe.

Also, when you remove the engine, the car is very light so you won't need to use the tow hook - you will be able to push it forward (assuming your bridge jack has rollers). You probably can push it with one hand too.

 

I like it! How did you get the car up and over the lift?

My lift has deep runways. I'd need a ton of wood to build a bridge.

 

Not sure I'd want to walk under that setup.

 

Mine too, three sections of 2x4 sideways and scrap 3/4 in plywood on top all screwed together x2 to make a "bridge" over the middle. took about 20 min to make them.

Thats fine, It was up for a month, engine out is complete, worked great. Not any different than hanging the car off of the back.