355 ENGINE OUT (with 4 post hoist) THE SAFE WAY with pictures

Heres a group shot of most of the parts that went into this service

(the gas filters were also changed , as were the spark plugs )
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Now we have to re-fill the basic fluids.

Coolant:
Pick up a quality 5 year premixed coolant.
I personally use Honda coolant as Honda makes a quality product for aluminum motors (and Honda has ONLY made aluminum motors since the companies inception.....unlike other manufactures who mix aluminum top ends with cast iron blocks).
The change interval should be 2-3 years max though.

The Ferrari cooling system is a self bleeding system even though there is a bleeder on the thermostat housing.
You DO NOT not have to open the bleeder (the bleeder is below the level of the coolant resevoir).

When you drain the cooling system I always measure the quantity so I know how much is supposed to go back in.
In my case 10 ltrs were drained out.
Fill the coolant resevoir until it is about 1.5 inches from the top of the filler tube.

After ALL the other fluids have been replaced in the car,
turn the heater to max heat and start the engine and warm up the motor until BOTH fans turn on.
Moniter the coolant level.
Make sure you have heat in the cabin (you know there is no air pocket in the heater core).
Top up the coolant resevoir till the fluid level is 1 inch below the filler tube inlet and screw the resevoir cap on.
When the car has fully cooled off, you will find the fluid level has dropped to the bottom of the resevoir.
Top up the resevoir till the level is again 1 inch below the filler tube inlet.

Note: Donot the use chemical flushes unless there is a need (ie: coolant is very old or there is rust in the system). The harsh chemicals and etching agents required to clean the system can potentially harm some of the cooling system components. My coolant was always flushed regularly and came out looking clean and rust free as the day it was put in.
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This is for the 10 silicone lines from the airbox to the intake manifold.
You can buy it in bulk for $4.99 a foot and it comes in black,yellow,red,white and blue
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or here
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Mario, all the coolant hoses, with the exception of the 2 small 3/8" hoses under the coolant resevoir, appeared to be in excellent condition.
Those small hoses were showing wear and needed to be replaced sooner than later though.

I replaced them with the silicone hose kit (8 piece) from Ricambi. I also had to purchase one other heater hose and the before mentioned 3/8" hoses at the dealer.
Here are all the rubber hoses that came off the car......the cut you see in one of the L hoses (right one ) was from me to ease removal (but was not absolutely necessary).
Chris
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When you change your motor oil (& filter) normally you will require about 8 litres.

However because I disconnected the oil lines to the sump for the engine out service I lost additional oil.
I measured the oil removed and it came to 9.5 litres.
Pick up 10 litres of your favourite oil ( I use Mobil 1 Ow40 ,European Formula, for street use/5W50 for track use).

To refill is very straight forward.
Add about 9 litres to the sump and start the motor and check the dipstick periodically as the motor warms up.
Top up as required.

Once the engine oil temperature IS GREATER than 70 degrees C you can obtain an accurate level (with the oil cap /dipstick screwed in).

The motor oil can either be checked while the motor is running or immediately after shut down.......
either way will give an accurate reading.

You want to have an oil level mid way between the low and high marks on the dipstick.
Donot attempt to fill to the high mark as the oil will expand and cause oil consumption and carbon in the motor.
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When you refill your transmission you normally require about 5 quarts.
I am currently using Redline Synthetic gear oil 75W90 NS.

I have also used Shell Helix and Agip 75W90 synthetic gear oil previously.
I have read where others have noted that their transmission shifted better when cold by trying different brands of fluid.
As I change the transmission oil yearly I have tried the different brands mentioned prior....however in my case, I have noted NO change in the shifting of the transmission when cold.
The 2nd gear notchiness does go away however, with in a minute or so of startup though.

To drain the transmission first remove the drain plug in the bottom middle of the transmission.
Next remove the fill plug on the top lft side of the transmission.
Install a funnel with a extension tube and fill the transmission.

Pour 4.25 quarts in and them insert (fully screwed in) the transmission fill plug/dipstick regularly to keep track of the level, pour the rest in till you reach the top of the fill mark on the dipstick.
p.s. DONOT overfill the transmission or the gear oil will make its way past the triple seals and contaminate the clutch.
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Currently I am having some leather work done on the rear deck......so I thought I would show this feature which has been added to my car.

For those that want to track their car there is the option of a bolt in bar behind the seats to anchor the 4 or 5 point belts or one can have the bungs welded in the rear firewall and floor pan.
The bungs were installed in my car by the F dealer (and they continue this type of install in all fcars right up to the 430).
This type of install is not only safe but it is a cleaner install (for a street car).

My setup includes a 5 point harness and the 5 point is hidden beneath a velcro flap when not in use.
p.s. when I get my leather work done I will post a finished photo with the harness installed
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This is the way the factory recommends the mounting brackets (bungs) for the harnesses be installed.
The bungs are however installed by the Fdealer.
Its interesting to note, when you order the challenge kits on the 360 or 430's.....they will give you the carbon fiber seats with the holes for the 4 (or 5 ) point harnesses plus accessories like carpet delete, light weight carbonfiber panels and so on (so the car appears ready for track use) but you still have to request your dealer install the eyelet hook bungs (at extra cost of course)......or you won't have a place to hook your harness to.

 

Heres the picture for the attatchment for 5th point (velcro flap that opens)at the adjustable thigh pad on lower seat cushion
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Thanks Pap
I should have the leather work back shortly and will post photos with the harness and panels installed.

As well, I have the optional glove box to install.
As early coupes and targa's don't have the welded nuts on the firewall.....I have to make some kind of brackets that will not damage the carpet (in case I want to remove it).
I could just tig the nuts on the firewall.....but if I do this I will have to use 1/8" bolts and this will leave holes in the carpet and as I am trying to make this install reversible......this is not an option.

 

Cool

 

As I'm still waiting for my rear deck leather work to be completed.......I decided to attack the glove box install.

I picked up a glove box a while back on ebay.
This is the factory optional box that sits on the rear deck and was meant originally for convertibles.
Those of us with early 355 coupe and targas have a small installation problem in that the rear deck does not have the installation nuts (on the firewall).

I decided against tig'g the nuts on the rear deck because the size of the bolts requires two 1/8" holes in the carpet......and if I wanted to remove the glove box at a later date the carpet would be permanently damaged.
I decided on a simple screw (fine thread but thin like a drywall screw) and plate mounting.
All you do is carefully split the carpet from the insulation.
Drill and tap the plate to accept the screw.
Install the 2 screws through the box into the carpet and catch the plates (between the carpet and insulation)...... and your done in 10 minutes.
Once the upper trim panels are installed the box will be held fast and never come loose.

p.s. I will post a final picture with all the rear deck panels installed when they are ready
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Take a look at the carpet in this area..........you will find that the carpet and insulation are molded and very stiff in this area ....as a result the glove box is soundly bolted down.
You cannot move the box at all and once the trim panels are bolted in it will be even stiffer.
I am a little concerned about velcro though.......in high g cornering or braking you don't want the glove box coming loose.

 

Heres the finished glove box install with the trim panels in place.

p.s. in the first photo the eyelet bolts for the 5 point track belts are also installed
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Heres the finished install with the panels and 5 point track belts.

I also have a extra seat cushion made up in leather with a memory foam base.
This can be installed in less than a minute and it utilizes the same hookup to the seats as the factory cushion.

The advantage of this cushion is that it allows me the extra head clearence to wear a full face helmet on the track .....nothing more uncomfortable or unsafe as to be distracted because your helmet is hitting the roof.
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