Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Have not installed the new ones yet. Still doing research on removing the old ones which have gotten pretty ragged. But thought I would see what the new CF ones will look like. Reflection from the overhead light isn't helping
Removal is pretty straight forward. I tape up the rocker panel to prevent marking it. Remove the screws under neath the rubber door seal. Use a heat gun to heat up the side sill and loosen the bond between it and the rocker panel and chassis. Then use a large spatula for plaster board and slide it between the sill and chassis and it will slowly but surely cut through the bonding agent (usually some form of silicone).
Thanks, the heat gun/spatula trick seems to be the method. Mentioned more than once. Curious what you used to get the adhesive off the lower body panel undernearh the sill plate ? Are you using a wide metal putty knife or something plastic ?
Wide metal putty knife both times I removed the sills I had the rocker panels stripped and repainted. You can just scrape as much off as possible and re glue them fine. I also didn’t re glue them down but used Velcro so they are easy to remove for cleaning, rocker panel painting etc.
Note: we have a couple of OEM sill plates in stock. The finish is very different than the original. The originals are semi gloss, the new parts are dead flat and mar very easily. For originality, best to refinish new before installing.
I am just hoping I can get the old ones off without destroying them Saw pictures or a video somewhere, and the guy bent the hell out of the old ones getting them off. Pretty much destroyed them.
I have carbon fiber and love them. My originals are in decent shape with a little bit of bubbling. I will restore and refinish for originality if ever needed in future. Good luck with the project. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you follow my method and take your time the sills will come off as they are. I have saved 2 sets doing it this way but haven’t bothered to refinish as they were already a little wavy and one was corroded pretty bad.
Yep. Extremely common but that doesn't mean the results will be consistent. It's not McDonalds. The prep, the powder all play key roles. When you get into the lower sheen stuff, it's a bit harder to find the right powders. The company I used for my engine stand only does industrial work - they won't do car parts. In fact, on my engine stand, a couple members have some light coverage on the bottom. If that was a car part it would have been sent back
John - have you been through this? I have. For those of us that try to restore to the original finish levels, it's just not black and white. The new OEM sill plates have a finish totally different than original but based on your statement, you would be fine with them as "we're talking a door sill" For guys like me, Elliott, and Jim (to name a few) it doesn't cut the mustard
I think the bottom line is that if you want to match something you need a sample. Then it's a matter of asking the shop if they can match it, and ask if they can do a sample.
Let's not forget sometimes these sills have been off in the past, you have no clue what the people used to glue them back down. I have encountered a couple of sticky situations removing these. So its not cut and dry on removal if its not still factory glue.
Ok, I'm a little anal. I just pulled out my old set of carbon fiber door sills, got a new set & put the same PPF (paint protection film) on my Porsche on it... it did cost $200 per sill, but now the surface is super smooth, easy to take care of & resistant to scratches. https://www.stek-usa.com/dynoshield Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
