Hi John. PM me if you would like to order one now. Or you may wish to wait until later after Steve has used the controller for some period of time and reports good functioning.
I whipped a little adapter up, and will use zipties to hold the wires firmly. The best thing about 3-d printing is not having to adhere to traditional molding rules. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Very good idea to add those "saddles" to which the pigtail connectors can be tied. A couple of points that you may need to "fine tune": 1. The round portions of the 2 larger spade terminals (covered with heat-shrink) that are plugged-in next to each other almost touch each other when the pins are inserted. You may need to alter the twin saddle for these or just have one wide saddle. 2. Depending on the thickness of your holder base (through which you have created slot and round holes for the pins) it may not allow the pins to be fully pushed into the loom connector. If this is the case, you can just enlarge these holes. Otherwise, it looks good.
Thanks! Great input. I based all my dimensions off the stock plate that fell off. The only worry I had was having the smaller pins extend far enough through. I made the recess on the small pin side. I'll see what adjustments need to be made when I get the first one. I'm more worried about getting 2 zip ties through the center hole. (you can't really tie 3 things in a row down with a single tie...) sjd
Here's pics of the parts that came today. They needed a little workover, but everything connected perfectly. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Beats me. (I have an '89?) (pause while I go look) Yep, the same green wire goes into the Motor plug, with an all red. They must have been out of brown/black that day. sjd
Just a quick update: There's nothing to report. Miro's unit works great. On a side note, I've not had to reset the clock now that everything is working. sjd
Loving the technical expertise, and dedication that has gone into resolving this issue that is all too common for 348/355 owners. When I owned my 348, I was lucky enough to stumble across a three pin resistor from a 348 that was being scrapped for parts in Germany, so I bought it "just in case" I ever needed it. With this project, that kind of lucky find is no longer needed! As I had noted a few years back, Alfa Romeo's of the same period also used pretty much the same resistor, so once everything is sorted, and everyone is happy with the final product, might I suggest contacting Alfa Romeo forums/owners clubs, in order to expand the possible market for the new resistor, and help owners of another marque who suffer the exact same issues as 348/355 owners? - Just a thought
Thanks to the info in this thread, I recently repaired the bad transistors in my blower speed controller. I first confirmed the control head was sending proper voltage to the speed control, then proceeded to swap out the transistors. Notes: 1) you can remove the speed control without removing the coolant lines (at least in a LHD car.) you just need to select the proper length #2 Phillips and it helps to magnetize the shaft of the driver to hold the screws during reinstall. 2) I used the TIP142 package from Mouser Electronics. This has plastic overmolding where the screw goes through the tab. I carefully trimmed this back to expose the metal tab to make it dimensionally equivalent to the transistor I was removing. Although the bulk of the heat transfer is between the flat of the tab and the heat sink through the thermal paste, my thought is that you loose some heat dissipation from the screw not contacting the tab, and secondly, the clearance between the screw head and circuit board is too tight if you use the full thickness over-molded tab. I used a dremel pencil grinder with a fiber cutoff disc and a steady hand. My talent wasted at engineering school. I should have been a surgeon 3) the part https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/stmicroelectronics/tip142/?qs=ljbEvF4DwOPybbeZUhjQIg%3d%3d&countrycode=US¤cycode=USD Image Unavailable, Please Login
Guys, need your advice, after starting the engine, the blower runs at maximum speed and it does not matter what position the potentiometer is in, because the blower does not respond to the potentiometer at all. It would be great if that would be transistor failure but I stopped and turned off the engine and restarted the engine, the blower stopped working. I mean it started working normally responding to the potentiometer so I could increase and decrease the blower speed. When I drove into the garage, the blower started working at full speed again and did not respond to the potentiometer at all any ideas? got fan speed controller in my hand and hvac also very close....
Do you mean you bought a new or second hand fan speed controller? What do you mean by HVAC? The entire evaporator unit (with fan) or ? With an intermittent problem, it's going to be very difficult to make a diagnosis. I'm wondering if anyone has some normal turn on/running current values for the fan? It might be possible to check the current draw of the fan motor by putting an ammeter across pins 2 & 3 of the orange plug (and having a second person turn on the ignition). This would make the fan run at full speed and you could obverve startup and run current values. Image Unavailable, Please Login i.e. across the brown and black wires. Unfortunately, not many inexpensive multimeters can handle this kind of current. One would have to buy a standalone ammeter like this: https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/ammeters/9010340
I use this mini clamp-on ammeter, probably one of the smallest (about 6.5 in. overall length). It can also capture the peak Amps, like at the motor start-up. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yikes... Showing U$300 on this site. https://www.monotaro.sg/p/76096693.html (Note folks that DC Ammeters are far more expensive than your typical AC Ammeter. Not all clamp type meters can measure DC. Only higher end ones)
I mean fan speed controller the one I just removed. By HVAC I mean ecu from which I disconected the plugs. Maybe I have king of cold ice problem on one of the board..?
@m.stojanovic I now need two of these heater resistors for an F355. Did you have any luck making your own? Could you sell to me? Thank You! Justin
Hi. I have been selling the modified/adapted fan speed controllers (from another car) and I still have a few donor units which I can convert and send you. PM me for details. (Picture of one I delivered last year): Image Unavailable, Please Login
