348 A/C converted to 134A need pressure spec..

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by chrmer3, Jun 21, 2006.

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  1. chrmer3

    chrmer3 Formula 3

    May 19, 2006
    1,719
    USSA
    Full Name:
    Chris
    Hi All,
    My 348 was converted to 134A in 2002 by FOD. Needed some added so I got one of those charge cans with the gauge on it (134A with hose & pressure gauge attached). Can gauge charge zone 25-45lbs normal I believe....I am on 25lbs after adding , A/C feels good... Questions if I stick a temp gauge in vent what should be approx temp? Also any input on the amt of pressure to run the 134A at also be appreciated...
    Chris
     
  2. SpannerMan

    SpannerMan Karting

    Nov 7, 2005
    116
    San Diego
    Full Name:
    Erik Rathmann
    One way to tell if the system is full is look at the sight glass on the filter/drier to see if it is clear with the system running. When it is clear, the High (pressure) side is pushing liquid through the drier-the system is full. When it is not clear, there will be a stream of bubbles flowing past the sight glass.
    Since I don't have the ability to post a photo of what the hell I am talking about, perhaps someone can fill in for me.


    Erik
     
  3. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
    Vegas+Alabama
    Full Name:
    Mr. Sideways
    True for R12, not true for R134.
     
  4. PAP 348

    PAP 348 Ten Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Dec 10, 2005
    100,199
    Mount Isa, Australia
    Full Name:
    Pap
    Good to hear your air con is sorted out. As a rough rule of thumb, I try to get the temp at the vent to about 4 degrees celcius, that it with the thermo stat at full cold and the blower fan on the lowest speed to allow the air to absorb the coolness off the evaperator. As for the head pressures, I find if I run with between 10-18 PSI on the LOW and 180-240 PSI on the HIGH it's not a bad median for a cool vent temp. The rest is just trial and error
     
  5. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
    Vegas+Alabama
    Full Name:
    Mr. Sideways
    With r134, the lower the charge, the lower your temp (within reason).

    This site says charge r134 to 90% of full r12 pressure for your vehicle (i.e. 10% less than R12): http://autoacrepairs.com/134aConversion.htm


    This site lists an r134 pressure chart: http://www.ackits.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=Chart

    Low Side PSI, Evap Temperature (F), High Side PSI, Ambient Temp (F)
    16-29 , 33-50 , 115-200 , 70-80
    19-39 , 33-60 , 140-235 , 80-90
    25-43 , 40-65 , 165-270 , 90-100
    37-51 , 48-65 , 210-310 , 100-110
     
  6. Dr Tommy Cosgrove

    Dr Tommy Cosgrove Three Time F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 4, 2001
    36,241
    Birmingham, AL
    Full Name:
    Tommy
    absolutely.

    You will not get rid of the bubbles in the sight glass in a system that has been converted from 12 to 134. Don't even try to keep loading 134 in an attempt to make them disappear.
     
  7. chrmer3

    chrmer3 Formula 3

    May 19, 2006
    1,719
    USSA
    Full Name:
    Chris
    OK, On 134A pressure really seems crucial...I stayed around 25-30lbs on low pressure side. If you go past that amount (on mine anyways) the compressor starts to cycle from what I imagine is a high pressure cut off. I could watch the gauge climb from 25-45lbs & "click" compressor drops, pressure decreases..as I pushed the fitting to release gas you could see temperature lower in car also (I had a temp gauge in the A/C vent so I could see through window, like a meat temperature gauge...works) Anyhow, once pressure came back to around 25lbs system stayed stable (no cycling) & no more fluctuation of pressure. Temperature out of vent is 42 farenheit (5.5 celsius).
    I am happy with that :) Enough messin with it...
    Thanks for help guys!
    Chris
     
  8. SpannerMan

    SpannerMan Karting

    Nov 7, 2005
    116
    San Diego
    Full Name:
    Erik Rathmann
    "You will not get rid of the bubbles in the sight glass in a system that has been converted from 12 to 134. Don't even try to keep loading 134 in an attempt to make them disappear."


    Whatever.
     
  9. fmaderi

    fmaderi Formula Junior

    May 8, 2005
    258
    clearwater Fla/NY
    Full Name:
    frank maderi
    i would start with 70 percent of r-12 and work up from there . good info from the sckits site . if i can get the temperature coming oout of the vents 20 degrees lower then ouside temp i am happy . forza
     
  10. Steve King

    Steve King F1 Rookie

    Feb 15, 2001
    4,367
    NY
    I usually run at 30-33 Lbs and the vent temp is 40*F . My car sits all winter and when I get it ready for summer the system is at about 25# so I usually hit it with a small can of 134 until I get to 40#. Seems to work good in the 308. A little slow at getting the hot air out of the car but once I'm running it ie sufficent enough to keep me cool. Also a trick I use is turn the defroster vents so they are facing my head and that does the trick. Enjoy the ride
     
  11. 50hdmc

    50hdmc Formula 3

    Oct 10, 2006
    1,211
    Michigan
    Full Name:
    mark s
    Look for a temperature differential of 18 to 22 degrees..........On a 90 degree day with a 90 degree temp inside the car, the vent temp will be about 68 degrees. You can do better with the old R12 systems......run at lower pressures
     
  12. rsqrd308

    rsqrd308 Formula Junior

    Oct 27, 2007
    357
    Phoenix AZ
    Full Name:
    Rick Roth

    IN Phoenix in summer, that could mean 90 degree air from the A/C.
     
  13. rsqrd308

    rsqrd308 Formula Junior

    Oct 27, 2007
    357
    Phoenix AZ
    Full Name:
    Rick Roth
    Speaking of which, could one have too much oil in a system, and what would that do.

    I have a Porsche 928 coverted to R134a, and every time I check the pressure on the high side, I disconnect the guage and get a spray of oil.
     

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