328 Water Pump Removal

For what it's worth; I had to R&R the waterpump on my 308 the week after I bought it 8 years ago. I can't help you with the details because I really don't remember much about doing it but I can tell you it was no big deal. I think the fact that I don't remember is pretty good proof that you should have no real problems doing it yourself. Good luck.

 

Drain the coolant from the block from the valve which is located in between exhaust ports #1 and #2 on the engine block (towards the rear of the car closer to the right side of the engine..access through right wheel well)

Remove the water pump belt. These belts can be gotten form a local source but may have to be ordered speacial

Losen the two large hoses that go to the rear of the water pump. Access the clamps is a bit tricky. The lower hose of the 2 that go to rear of the pump is also attached to a metal pipe at the other end. This pipe is secured by a clamp which is bolted down by one of the intake nuts. Losen this nut just enough so the pipe can move freely. This will help later with the install.

Losen the small hose that goes to the top of the t-state housing (the one attached to the metal pipe) and pull it off the housing.

Using a 13mm socket and a 13mm open end wrench remove the 4 bolts which secure the pump assembly to the block. You do not need to remove the timing covers. Pull the pump towords you. Once there is a gap between the pump assembly and the block, wiggle it free from the rear hoses. There will be an o-ring which seals the pump to the block. Repalce this o-ring when reinstalling.

Now you must seperate the pump from the rear housing. Undo the 10mm nuts and remove the washers. Tap the assembly with a plastic hammer around the circumferance where the two peices joint together. This will take some time. You may have to pry a bit, but be careful not to crack anything. Try and remove the pump as square as you can to its rear section.

Try not to have to much coolant spill on the timing belts. You will get some on there, but flush it away with water quickly.

Once the new pump is installed you are now ready to add coolant and bleed the system.

With the engine off, open the bleeder which sits on top of the t-stat housing (the same housing you removed the upper hose from) this will be a brass colored "bolt" with a copper washer underneith. You do not need to remove all the way..but I like to see the flow rather then a trickle.

Now go to the front to the car under the hood. On the right side of the rad at the top corner you will find a thumb screw looking thing. Loosen it off. This is the air bleed for the rad.

Start adding coolant to the expansion tank. Use a 50 50 mix of coolant and water Do not use just straight coolant. Keep adding until you see coolant stream out of the t-stat housing bleeder. Close it. Continue adding until coolant streams out of the bleeder on the rad. Close it. fill that expansion tank to the seam.

Now start you car. Once running turn the heater on high with the fan running about half speed. Let the car run until it gets warm. With the car running crack open the bleeder on the RAD. Let the coolant start to stream out. If it spurts out you still have air in the systam. Once all the air is out you will have a nice stedy stream of coolant comming out of the rad bleeder.

Fill the expansion tank to a level that is now just above the seam of the tank. Put the cap on and go for a short drive around the block. Bleed once more and you should be done.

Hope this helps.

 

Just curious; once the heater valves are open why would you need the heater fan on at all?

 

You might consider replacing the hoses on the rear of the pump. They harden with age and resealing can be difficult.

Water pump is no big deal on these cars. Did mine 3 years ago but don't recall what I took off. Probably a lot because I did the belts, etc. at the same time.

 

Unless I'm replacing the hoses to the main pump body, I just remove the nose section for a rebuild. 35 minuites to get it off sounds about right.

If you're considering rebuilding your WP, you'll find the links to tips & to 2 removal & rebuild procedures in my post in the following thread to be comprehensive:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2285&highlight=water+pump+rebuild

(I'd have re-posted it here, but links don't cut & paste).

A couple of tips for disassembling the nose:

1) Since Al expands a lot more than steel, put the WP housing in a 350F or 400F oven for 15-20 minuites. Good chance that the outer bearing will come out very easily .

2)Biggest PITA is the big c-clip that holds the inner bearing's outer race in place. You need a strong c-clip tool that can reach way down inside the WP nose.

Once you know your bearing size, consider using stainless steel bearings from McMaster Carr.

 

I do recall using a 1/4 inch socket set with a U-joint attached to socket plus some extensions to get the clamp off/on.

 

Rebuild it yourself, it is very easily done and self explanatory.
The whole job Remove, Rebuild and Reinstall normally takes about an hour unless you have issues like you did with the hoses not coming loose. I guess you have to weigh the options. How much can you save by doing it yourself and is it worth your headache. BTW, some WP housings are so badly corroded inside that the sealing surfaces are badly damaged and /or will not hold the outer bearing in place tightly. The same thing can happen to the shaft. It ususally is very pitted where it meets the seal and needs to be polished on a lathe if there is enough meat left. It may be best to get a ready to go unit. Judging by your earlier questions I don't think you want to deal with all these possible issues.
Have Fun

Karl

 

There are already two very thorough water pump rebuild procedures written up (See links in my earlier post). Then there are a dozen or so wp rebuild related threads in fchat. Your writeup will only be useful if it's better than those procedures.

 

Did you loosen the clamp that holds the lower pipe to the intake runner? This makes it alot easier..I stated this above in my instructions. I have never had to cut a lower hose.