328 Thermostat | FerrariChat

328 Thermostat

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Iain, Feb 27, 2005.

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  1. Iain

    Iain F1 Rookie

    Jan 21, 2005
    3,302
    UK
    Greetings FChatters. I need to change the Thermostat on my '89 328. Does anyone know if there is an alternative (but identical) part that can be used (i.e. its the same part used in Fiat/Alfa/Volvo/VW/GM xyz etc etc) or do I really need to go & pay Ferrari 75 quid for the thing?

    Iain
     
  2. Ricambi America

    Ricambi America F1 World Champ
    Sponsor Owner

    Iain -

    I've got a bucketload of aftermarket ones, and I'm not sure we've ever heard a defnitive answer on how good they are. If you'd be willing to try it (and report back to the community with details), I'll send you one for free. But you gotta use it and report back to us !

    http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48498&highlight=thermostat


    PM me, and it'll go in tomorrow's mail.


    Kindly,
    Daniel
     
  3. TOM B

    TOM B Formula 3

    Jul 24, 2003
    1,038
    Orange County, NY
    Full Name:
    Thomas Buckley
    Iain,
    A few month's ago I replaced the thermostat in my 3.2 Mondial (same engine as 328). I went to my local NAPA Auto Parts store and by measuring the old thermostat found one that fit perfectly. NAPA part # 117. They even had a housing gasket that worked. I think it was NAPA # 1073. Total cost was like $13.00. I belive the thermostat was listed as being for a Toyota truck, a Lexus, and some other stuff. Good luck.


    Tom
     
  4. Mike C

    Mike C F1 Veteran
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Aug 3, 2002
    6,081
    Southeast USA
    Full Name:
    Mike Charness
    Do they have the 1/16" hole on one side to let air through like the originals do? I replaced mine with one from Autozone that fits a VW rabbit -- same size and same temperature spec though it didn't have the air hole. -- but it was so whimpy in construction compared to what had come out of there that I later put in a "real" one I got from T. Rutlands. Night and day difference in quality and heftiness even if the overall dimensions were the same.
     
  5. Iain

    Iain F1 Rookie

    Jan 21, 2005
    3,302
    UK
    Thanks very much for the replies. I'm going to try one of Daniel's t'stats which he has very kindly offered to send over to the UK. I may not get it changed for a week or two - much too cold to be outside working on cars at the moment (trying to snow again today)! I promise to report back once its in & done though.

    Procedure looks fairly straightforward - its the kind of thing I've done on numerous other cars before - but not the 328. I understand where the bleed screws are on the stat housing & the radiator - but any other tips or "gotchas" to be aware of on the process gratefully received.

    rgds

    I.
     
  6. Iain

    Iain F1 Rookie

    Jan 21, 2005
    3,302
    UK
    Update:

    Daniel sent over the T'stat which I have installed today - got a new gasket & O-ring from F-UK for which they charged me about £6.50 for the parts - and then £4.50 for postage (bless them!)

    SO, as promised, here's what happened when I fitted the T'stat that Daniel very kindly sent me

    The Stat Daniel sent me is of a slightly different design but fundamentally the same size & shape. Having taken the stat out the car I suspended them both in a pan of water & heated it - there is no doubt the original T'stat was opening much earlier than the one Daniel sent me & that opened well before the water boiled - all good so far.

    Next I drilled a small hole in the flange to match the one that was in the original - this is an air bleed & so I though the thing ought to have it!

    Fitting it proved to be a bit more of a headache - the main flange is/was slightly too large such that when fitted with the new O-ring it wouldn't sit down in the recess in the T-stat housing. 10 minutes judicious use of a flat file round the edge and a tiny smear of vaseline on the O ring fixed the problem.

    Put everything back together & refilled with the coolant I'd taken out the system & topped it up a bit more. Took some air out the T'stat & radiator bleed screws & ran the thing.

    It ran fine, no leaks. Water temp started to climb & so I took it out for a run. On my water temp guage there are 5 marks - 140, a mark, 195, a mark & 250. The mark between 140 & 195 would theoretically be about 167 on the basis that its half way between the 140 & 195 marks.

    Basically the car ran at that intermediate mark (167) no matter what I did with it. Took it for about 15 miles round some back roads & then up the motorway for 6 or 7 miles.

    There is no doubt the temperature was a lot more stable than previously where it would sit around the same level but fluctuate a bit. Oil temp climbed to around 180 - so well short of the big "210" mark on the guage.

    The immediate conclusion therefore was that I have a bad gauge or maybe a bad sender - then again the oil temp more or less corresponded with the water temp.....

    However.....

    When I got it home i let it sit at idle to see what would happen. The water temp started to climb fairly shortly afterwards. When it got to the 195 mark the electric fans came on (as they should) and the temp then started to fall back towards the intermediate mark.

    As far as I know the fans come on at around the 190 mark so that would seem to indicate that my gauge & sender are actually OK.

    So, there's no doubt the running water temperature is more stable than it was but the fact that the fans came on when they should suggests that the T'stat that Daniel very kindly sent me is perhaps not the right one because the water temp. is still running some way below where it should be at in general use (i.e. 195)

    Next logical step would be to bite the bullet & go & buy a genuiine T'stat & see what happens with that.....unless anyone has any better ideas (?!)

    If anyone can do it I'd be very interested to know what your temp gauge reads (on a 328!) when the electric fans kick in. Mine cut in at just on the 195 mark on my guage.

    rgds

    Iain
     
  7. Mark 328

    Mark 328 Formula Junior

    Nov 6, 2003
    510
    Orange, Ca
    Full Name:
    Mark Foley
    Although expensive, for my 2 cents, my preference would be to stick to the OEM thermostat--they seem to work good? I have experienced several instances in another car where aftermarket thermostats fit, but at some point stuck closed; the result was cracked heads.

    Also, the small holes are important and should be in the thermostat. They allow some water thru to help get hot water on both sides of the thermostat--I have been told that in some cases where the thermostat housing is not colocated very near to a heat source (with good water flow) that the head may be hot and the water around the thermostat is not hot enough to open.
    In some cases a stubborn thermostat can be fixed by drilling a small hole in it.

    Mark
     
  8. Ken

    Ken F1 World Champ

    Oct 19, 2001
    16,078
    Arlington Heights IL
    Full Name:
    Kenneth

    That may be true, but there's another reason for the hole. When it's REALLY cold out, the surge of cold water from the radiator when the thermostat opens hits the head and can blow your head gasket. The little hole warms that stagnant coolant until the thermostat opens, lessening the thermal shock.

    Ken
     
  9. Iain

    Iain F1 Rookie

    Jan 21, 2005
    3,302
    UK
    I think I may well be heading towards getting an OEM t'stat - its not that difficult to change & for peace of mind it looks like the sensible thing to do. I ordered a digital thermometer over the weekend with a probe on it to see if I can get some more accurate readings as to what the thing is running at & if that shows in the 160 range then I'll definitly change it again.

    If you could spare me the time to run a small test, as per my previous post I'd be very interested to know what your temp gauges say (water and oil) during normal running & also what the water temp guage reads at the point that the the electric fans cut in if you leave the car stationary & idling for a while.


    Thanks for your comments

    Iain
     
  10. geekstreet

    geekstreet Karting

    Feb 7, 2005
    220
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Cam
    Iain,

    My 3.2 seems to always run a little under or at the 90 degC mark = 194 degF, and I do a lot of traffic work (slow, hot). I think the fans cut in just around then (I only notice them when I pull into the garage & let it run a little more). Oil temp I think is usually a little less - maybe about 80C (175F).
     
  11. Mike C

    Mike C F1 Veteran
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Aug 3, 2002
    6,081
    Southeast USA
    Full Name:
    Mike Charness
    I ended up doing the same thing... went with a cheaper thermostat, and then a week later decided to get an OEM. The cheaper one worked ok, but it obviously wasn't "right", didn't have the hole, the gasket wasn't a perfect fit, and was thinner metal overall. For some parts it doesn't matter, but for the thermostat I think it's worth going OEM.
     
  12. Iain

    Iain F1 Rookie

    Jan 21, 2005
    3,302
    UK
    Last update on this one:

    My car is at QV having its valve clearances checked & cambelts changed so I had a long chat with the all knowing Mike Lester about running temps etc.

    He says my running temp at the second mark on the guage on a 328 is basically spot on & that it shouldn't run at 195 - that's where the fans cut in (which they do). 308s will tend to run higher but 328s are much better cooled & so will tend to run lower. There is therefore nothing wrong with either the Thermostat or my temp sensor.

    The Thermostat that Daniel sent me is still in the car and, as far as I can see (with the addition of the above information) is therefore working perfectly.

    I went for 100 mile run in the car last weekend (almost all on the motorway) & the temperature never wavered.

    Conclusion therefore is that the T'stats that Daniel has are good for a 328 except that they don't have the small vent hole in them which is very easy to add. The one I got was also a bit tight in the housing but this was easily remedied as well.

    There's no doubt that my original T'stat was old & weak & needed changing - the car now warms up much quicker & the engine water temp is much more stable.

    My thanks to all who've contributed thoughts to this thread & also to Daniel for sending me the 'stat.

    rgds

    Iain
     
  13. JimboMondial

    JimboMondial Karting

    Dec 26, 2005
    71
    Portsmouth UK
    Full Name:
    Jim
    just recently bought a 3.2 mondial but have found the thermostat is either stuck open or non existent, easy I thought I'll just get one from the ferrari online spares site the repy I got was

    "128991 thermostat we have no stock on factory backorder i have spoken to our purchaser he cannot give delivery date as yet
    unfortunately we have no other thermostat available to fit this model"
    so will they ever be available again? is there a alternative someone would be willing to sell me ideally in the UK but getting less and less fussy
     
  14. Iain

    Iain F1 Rookie

    Jan 21, 2005
    3,302
    UK
    Contact Daniel at Ricambi. If he still has any of the 'stats that he sent me that should work fine. You'll just need to drill the hole in it & possibly adjust it to fit as I did. You may or may not need to replace the O-ring & If you can't buy a gasket then it would be easy enough to make.

    rgds

    I.
     
  15. JimboMondial

    JimboMondial Karting

    Dec 26, 2005
    71
    Portsmouth UK
    Full Name:
    Jim
    Well fitted the new thermostat at the weekend what a difference it only takes 10-15 mins to warm up and car just drives so much better thanks to Daniel at Ricambi, top bloke.
     
  16. mood

    mood Rookie

    Nov 10, 2003
    2
    Kuwait
    Full Name:
    Mahmood Juma
    I used a Chevy generation II small block V8 (1996 Caprice/ Impalala SS) thermostat in my 308 QV last winter because after rodding out my radiatior the engine would run at a rather cool 65'C (150'F) on the highway. I liked that (Chevy) themostat because the highway temp would be 80'C (175'F). The Chevy 'stat rubber perimeter gasket was thinner and had to be shimmed, and it didn't have the 1/8" holes as others mentioned. I changed back to the original 'stat for the summer. I'm not sure if I'll put the alternative one back in, but it worked fine. The passage through the chevy 'stat is larger and the max travel before the bypass port plugging disc bottoms out is less, but the flow when open is probably the same.
     

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