Required parts - Solenoïd - Brush kit - gear ratchet - Hardware kit - Fork - Bushings (not showned) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
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Several cracks were found on reduction gear carrier and need to be replaced, Also the rotor needs to be reworked
How timely. We're just starting on one now. Where did you find the rebuild parts? At the minimum, could you post the part numbers? Thank you. Best, David
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To prevent further starter troubles, I also replaced the rotary switch (key) Image Unavailable, Please Login
The BOSCH Starter Motor p/n 0 001 110 004 is installed on FERRARI 328, Mondial 3.2 and Testarossa, The following parts are required to overhaul it: - Reduction gear assy, BOSCH p/n 1 006 200 006 (Required if found cracked) - 2ea bushings BOSCH p/n 1 000 301 056 Remark: Once the front bushing is installed he needs to be drilled to the correct diameter - 1 ea fork BOSCH p/n 1 001 933 111 - 1 ea kit Bosch p/n 1 007 010 039 (Only two or tree parts are required from kit, the kits covers several starter p/ns) - 1 ea sololenoïd p/N SNLS-236 by UNIPOINT (BOSCH p/n 2 339 303 286) http://www.unipoint.com.tw/member/product.php?type=electrical&part=SNLS-236 - 1 ea Brush holder (brush kit) BOSCH p/n 1 004336 404
Great thread thanks! But, I would suspect availability of these parts could be a challenge. I suppose auto-electric people who rebuild starters must have access to them but would they sell them individually? They might just offer rebuild only. But nothing beats the satisfaction of DIYing. How difficult was it to find the parts?
It was easy to find the parts, I went to car electro shop also BOSCH injection specialized. I get all parts for approx 170. euros http://www.zahn.fr/ Unfortunately my local supplier doesn't ship parts to the USA
My 328 does not start when hot, makes a hum not a click. Think it needs a rebuild? I bought car recently, have docs, shows starter was rebuilt recently, too
Common problem. Its likely not the starter. Check the pins on the engine bay connector for corrosion, this is the rectangular connector next to the upper LH shock mount. Remove any immobiliser device. If its not that, check the fuseboard for any discolored connectors and the connectors behind the passenger footrest. There are no fuses or relays in this circuit but the current does go through the fuseboard copper.
Thanks for advice. Immobilser device? Whats that? ps the car is an ABS car 88 if that makes a difference..
I recommend you to verify the connector located under the pax footrest. make sure that the pins are correctly engaged. You need to remove the pax carpet and remove the rest panel (4 scrws). The the wire between the battery and the starter motor pass through: - The power master switch - The rotary switch (Key) - The connector under the pax footrest - The connector on the engine electrical harness, the connectors (2ea) are located top behind L/H rear shockabsorber Rgds, Constance
Tried these no issues. Wouldnt the starting fine when cold (but hum in starter when hot) indicate a starter problem for sure not a connection?
Cked all these connections seems fine. Also tried to start when hot with jumper cables (to eliminate weak battery as cause), but still not hot start. Wouldn't the fact that the issue is a hum at starter when hot, but good starting when cold mean it must be that starter getting hot (it is right next to engine, expanind and locking internally somehow - therefore prior rebuild was poor, need new rebuild or new starter? Thats what i am thinking...dont see how it could be a bad connection as this should not be a function of heat.... Comments? Thanks! Aaron
You need to check the pin inside the connectors, follow the wire color from the starter to the battery, connector after connector. use for that a terminal to test the friction of the female pins
Thats not my experience. I had exactly this problem only when hot. I found there was only 9 volts on the solenoid when energised and "humming" and traced this down to a corroded contact on the engine bay harness and also I had to remove an aftermarket alarm, then no more problems. There have been many other posts on here with similar issues. I think the hot starter might need more power to engage the solenoid for some reason, maybe more friction owing to expanded parts. I think the long convoluted wiring path to the starter doesnt help either.
The not starting when hot problem on my 88 328GTS got fixed when I installed a rebuilt starter. New starters $625, ebay/ferrari sources $325, local import electric place (International Auto Electric, Southfield, MI), $169 exchange. Easy R & R, works perfect! Thks to all for the comments / advice...
