hello, my lovely 328 won’t fire up. usually, it starts up within 2 cranks, but it’s just not happening. there is spark and when i spray some “start ya bastard” in the engine it fires. battery is 100%. seems to be not getting fuel. any suggestions before I get it towed? thanks in advance
It is not everyday that a question has a built in answer: "starts ya bastard" fluid. Change. you fuel pump and look at the fuel pump circuit at the main fuse board.
Take the rear wheel liner out and see if the pump has power or you can feel it running. Assuming same as mondial the fuse is 15 amp and number 21 counting from the lh side. There are 2 relays re the pump. Top row far right hand side and the relay directly below it in the middle row. NB relays are not same pt no, so dont get them mixed up
Easier still, switch the ignition on and pull the blue connector on top of the CIS unit, that should start the pump, you will hear it if its working.
+1 -- and, if the pump doesn't run, this thread (post #13) shows the next diagnostic steps of: 1. removing the fuel pump relay and using a jumper 30-to-87 in the relay socket (fuel pump should run even with the key "off"), and 2. inspecting the possibly burned connection in the connector behind the passenger footrest panel. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/328-fuel-pump.164315
Out of intere Out of interest the book lists 2 relays re fuel pump. Fuel injection delivery pump starting relay other one is relay for fuel pump. What am i missing here as they both refer to the fuel pump . Ta
The reason the burnt connection for the connector at the fuse board is the pump gets older, it needs more current to run, and the connection gets hotter, and it become more resistive and it needs more current to run, and it gets hotter and ... Change the old fuel pump, clean up the connection at the fuse board. This is a $200 repair.
The two relays are effectively in operational series -- the "fuel injection delivery pump starting relay" controls what the "fuel pump relay" is doing: If the key is "on" and the safety switch is open = the "fuel injection delivery pump starting relay" is unenergized (30 connected to 87a) = supplies +12V to energize the fuel pump relay = runs the fuel pump (this is the normal engine running mode). If the key is "on" and the safety switch is closed and the starter motor is cranking = the "fuel injection delivery pump starting relay" is energized (30 connected to 87 which has the same +12V signal going to the starter solenoid when cranking) = still supplies +12V to energize the fuel pump relay = runs the fuel pump. If the key is "on" and the safety switch is closed but the starter motor is not cranking = the "fuel injection delivery pump starting relay" is energized (30 connected to 87 which has nothing) = the fuel pump relay is unenergized = fuel pump does not run. This gives the desired (safety) behavior that the fuel pump will always run during starter motor cranking (regardless of the safety switch status), but will not run when the key is "on" but the engine is not actually running (i.e., not drawing in air and the safety switch is closed) -- like after a bad crash. By jumping the fuel pump relay socket from terminal 30 to terminal 87 both relays are not in the picture at all -- so: 1. If the fuel pump runs with the jumper in place, but won't run with the relays in place = either relay could be bad so that would still have to be determined. 2. If the fuel pump won't run with the jumper in place = either a bad connection in the passenger footbox connector or a bad fuel pump Using the jumper at the fuel pump relay socket is a quick way to determine if you need to look at the upstream relays and connections or the downstream connections and fuel pump.
Hello. Finally got it to the mechanic. The issue was a fuel pump relay. What a pain in the arse, but thankful it wasn't anything serious. Thanks for all the advice.
