With the onset of this spring like weather I decided to fix the drivers side electric window that packed up in October... I've done numerous bits of work on the electric windows and was convinced that this would be a blown fuse or a loose connection. No such luck - I ended up putting the motor directly across 12v and it is dead as a door nail. Since Superformance only sell complete assemblies (i.e. motor, winding mechanism and wire) at £162 - I will be stripping the motor down this evening. I'm hoping it is just a case of one of the carbon brushes getting stuck. The outside casing didn't show any sign of any heat damage so I am hoping the winding is intact. Has anyone else gone down this route? If the winding has burnt out it will probably still be cheaper to get it repaired than buy a new unit. Pass the ammeter - I'm going in
Andy might be worth giving Phil at QV a call, they have tons of 308 Spares 01344 622011, they also sel a fix to cure the slow 308 Windows for not too much money
Thanks for that - I always forget about QV. My windows are not too bad in terms of speed, I cleaned out all the hardened gunk from the winding mechanism a couple of years ago. Since then provided it is not too chilly they go up & down without any need to place the palm of the hand on the glass and push
Andy is the inside of your GTB door the same as a GT4? if so, you could'nt post a picture while you have the front off could you? i can not get mine to run smoothly up therunners without poking out of the frame at the top! I have a support in the wrong place I guess! I have a wacking great gab between the window and the seal on the door, really anoying. Cheers Nick
I was browsing their stock room on tuesday. Amazing what they have there and the prices are very competitive. QV should be the first stop for parts for any Ferrari owner. In fact I don't even check around for prices anymore. I just call up Phil.
I'm still hoping to fix mine myself. I won't get time this evening but I will strip the motor down tomorrow. I still might regret missing your ebay auction... Pete - are you going to fix perspex panel instead of glass?
Nick, I'm pretty sure they will be different but I will post some pictures up either way. There are some exploded diagrams of the assembly about somewhere - if I find them I'll forward them onto you. p.s. how did you car finish up in that internet vote a few months ago?
Yep they are at Plastics4Peformance as I write this, they were picked up a couple of weeks ago and should be ready in a week or so's time, I will show pics in the thread I have been writing all about it in P.s. are you up for Snetterton on the 1st April, same racing as we see last year
I'd like to, as that was a good day out - I will have to see how things are at home. I work a lot of weekends these days (I'm at work now...) so it can be a bit dicey.
Nick, I don't think these will really help you as you can only remove the door cards, the 'framework' stays in place. Work on the windows, motor etc require the expertise of a keyhole surgeon . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I dismantled the electric motor last night. Everything looked fine and I couldn't figure out what could be wrong. I noticed a small gouge on the armature which puzzled me. I gave everything a good wipe out and clean and lo and behold found the problem. A broken serclip (spelling?) was attached to the magnets that surround the armature - this presumably had wedged in and prevented the armature from turning. I cleaned more thoroughly and found both parts of the serclip. Since only 1 serclip is used on these motors and it is positioned externally - this must have been left in the motor many years ago, presumably when it had been previously repaired. I put it all back together - attached it to the battery and it worked like a good 'un. £200 saved Now I have just got to re-assemble the doors... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
A few years ago whilst repainting a Daytona, the client asked if we could find out why the n/s window only lowered halfway. On stripping the door cards we found an earth wire stretched from the inner frame to the outer doorskin strengthener in the centre of the door interior - the window would go down so far, come to rest on this wire and refuse to go further. The strangest thing though - this was a one owner car that had never been apart!
Er Circlip, and you and hazy moan about my grammar Glad you got it sorted Andy, £200 saved that go go towards the next service or whatever
You should know by now that i'm tea total, I have mentioned it enough on here Looking at your pic I think your motor is a different shape, it certainly has the wires in a different place, the front might have been the same though Image Unavailable, Please Login
I remember seeing somewhere a schematic of these windows, but I can't find it anywhere.. Any help would be appreciated. I have a gap between the glass and the outside door edge. and the window sometimes pops out of its channel at the top. any help with lining up and positioning the runners would be appreciated!
Working from memory... as I am at work 160miles from both my 308 and my notes... ie: forgive me if I get this wrong! The window winder route is as attached. My car has a simple sliding tensioner, that you slacken and run up a slot to set the cable pre-tension... the photographs of the window mechanism out of the door are another self tensioning version (two wheels on a sprung arm). Before you start ensure your cables are wound roughly 1/2 and 1/2 on the winder capstan and tape them on with as little masking tape as possible, unless you happen to have the fitting tool (I found the plastic C clip lying in the bottom of one of my doors, very useful it is). The tape will come of when you wind the windows. String the cables around the pulleys, mark the cable and check for operation. Attach the glass and cautiously test the operation. Don't set the pre-tensioner too tight as you will find the cables tension dramatically during the raise lowering anyhow. If your glass is jumping out of the slot, one or both of your cables might be routed to the wrong side of the top pulleys, or more likely just to the wrong side of the mounting bolts, fixed to the glass. As the glass comes to the top of the rise this misalignment might tend to pull the glass away from the front guide. I don't recall a lot of adjustment on the guide slots themselves. Once the glass is hung on the cables, you can pitch it by adjusting exactly where you attach it to the cable, so that you can make it more parallel to the roof line and front slot. Just release one fixing clamp nut at a time and set up to fit. I hope this is useful... and that I've remembered the routing correctly!!! David 308GTS carb 1981 UK spec. Image Unavailable, Please Login
DKHudson - you're routing of the cable is spot on. The secret to the window returning into the correct position must rely on where the cable is attached to the window. i.e. with the window in the fully up position (I use Gaffer tape to hold them up) slacken the nuts off then adjust the cable until it supports the glass in the correct up position - and then do the nuts up real tight so you never have to do it again
I love the gaffer tape idea, i never thought of that one! however, how much of a gap do you guys get between the side window and the velvet strip on the door edge it slides up and down against? I am assuming that this gap will be small enough to stop rain pouring into the door? I have about a 6mm!!
6mm... that seems like quite a lot... better make sure the drain holes in the bottom of the door are clear! Which gap clearance are we discussing? My front guide channel felt (running up the quarter-light frame) is quite compacted and worn, giving a few mm play on the glass. Equally the rear felt channel running inside the door is quite worn now, so the glass feels slack, but not very loose. This doesn't seem to make that much difference. The glass to the top-outside edge of the door skin... is only a couple of millimetres (say 2-3), again where the edgeing rubber trim has stiffened and pulled back a bit. The rear edge has a new rubber on the body C pillar, so when I shut the door the glass is pushed out tight anyhow, as the glass seats onto the C pillar. Ahh, just thought of something... my car is a GTS so has frameless glass, ie: nothing above or rear of glass, just guided at the front. If you have a GTB then you'll have a frame top and rear of the glass. NOTE: the reason I mentioned that you should ensure the cables are wound onto the capstan 1/2 and 1/2 when refitting the winder... is that. 1) when you attach the glass to the cables you'll have to drop it to about the 1/2 raised position so that you can get at the fixing bolts... 2) as the motor runs, cable is paid off one end of the capstan to run around the circuit, and then the returning cable is wound onto the other end of the capstan. Taking things to logical extremes you can reach a point when you have would off all the cable from one end and wound on as much as is possible at the other end and this must coincide with a point just after the glass has reached the end of its travel. If the glass has further to run and the motor keeps winding the cables will get knotted and broken as the capstan over runs. I don't know how to explain this so imagine what happens when you take a pencil, tape on a length of string and wind it around say 5 times. Now slowly wind the pencil so that for the string is winding off the pencil... This is fine for 5 turns until all the string is off, then as you continue to turn the string then starts being wound back onto the pencil. In the window winder the "string" goes around all the pulleys, but ultimately comes back to the same winding capstan, where it is being wound onto that capstan. Suddenly both ends of the cable are being wound onto the capstan, instead of one on and one off. Something will jam if you're lucky and break if your not! The more I try to explain this, the harder it seems to be and it isn't really. 1) Set the cables 1/2 and 1/2 wound onto the winder capstan 2) string the cables around the pulleys 3) fix the glass to a point half way down the cable and everything else should just fall into place! 4) finally adjust one (or other) fixing slightly to fine tune the angle the glass is sitting at (run window up... check, run it back down to half way and adjust) Yours. David Image Unavailable, Please Login
Nickt, the 6mm gap that you talk about. Are you talking about along the sides, or the bottom. More from the archives. I have attached Ric Rambolts (no idea who is he but credit due etc) instructions on how to maintain 308 window mechanisms. Some of the steps may be appropriate on how to adjust the position of the glass. Image Unavailable, Please Login
On the bottom! I think it is where the front runner attaches to the door frame it is not spaced out rightly. I think I will take the whole lot to bits, tape the window in the right place and rebuild it backwards.
