I realised the other day that the clutch pedal does not have the 15 to 20 mm of free play that the workshop manual specifies. I have followed the procedure for adjusting the clutch cable from workshop manual and understand what I'm trying to do, but have a question. When I adjust the arm that the clutch cable is attached to so that the hole in the arm lines up with the hole in the clutch bracket, I can't make the linkage to the clutch release arm long enough... when I adjust it until it almost falls apart its still 5mm too short. I have to slacken the clutch cable so that the holes are misaligned to attach it. This seems to suggest that the clutch needs replacing. Did I guess right?
I forgot to mention that the clutch doesn't drag or slip and I can get all the gears. I would like to be prepared for imminent clutch failure though.. can anyone tell me if I should be worried?
If you can grab all the gears then "Stig it". Have you made an adjustment at the pedal? I came up with the "Stig it" on a long drive, Think it will catch on?
You can adjust at the pedal end? its so much more fun lying under the engine! I've been driving a lot the last weeks, trying to get it to show signs of getting worse, but its still good. I just hate driving with a feeling of impending doom.... Guess i should have bought a Toyota then. I see how long i can "Stig it"!
Andrew I am not entirely sure that I understand your GT4 clutch cable problem, but it sounds like: When you set adjustment according to the wsm, the cable length is too short to work with the turnbuckle. With the turbuckle hooked up (can't work without it) the clutch always has some pressure on it, as if you were driving with your foot on the pedal. And yet you have no slippage. When my clutch disc became disarmingly thin, it was slipping under 3rd and 4th gear acceleration. Assuming all parts are proper and original, your question becomes "is the cable appearing too short mean that my clutch is too worn out." The difference in clutch disc thickness between new and worn out is very minimal. The lever arms of the clutch linkages do tend to magnify that. Sadly, I can't quite get my brain around which direction - I think as the clutch wears out, you need to shorten the cable (tighten up the linkage), not lengthen the cable. Your problem seems odd and confusing. I think you should examine your entire clutch cable - make sure it's not hung up somewhere, hasn't slipped off the pulley wheel, or frayed or something. Check it at the pedals and at the rear. Can you see the clutch enough through the timing inspection port to get a gander on thickness (probably not)? I never measured freeplay. Does yours seem to disengage immediately when you press on the pedal? How is your pedal feel? Jonathan Denver CO gt4 15302
Jonathan You summarized my situation correctly! The way i figure, as the clutch friction plate wears the pressure plate moves towards the flywheel, but the release fingers in the center of the pressure plate move away from the flywheel. This means for the release bearing to maintain clearance the turnbuckle needs lengthening. Thinking about it, I have no problem adjusting the clutch cable and getting the hole in the release arm to line up with the hole in the clutch housing; the problem is that the turnbuckle is "too short" to reach the second release arm (the one which acts on the release bearing). Theoretically, if my turnbuckle was 20mm longer I would be able to attach the second clutch arm , maintain freeplay in the pedal and keep the hole in the first clutch arm lined up with the hole in the clutch housing. This suggests that the strangeness is occurring somewhere in the bellhousing..... I guess I'll enjoy the summer and wait for time to tell! If I discover something new I post my findings. I'm wondering if someone put the wrong clutch friction disk/ pressure plate combo in there!
