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Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Dave, Oct 8, 2005.
GKN/Loebro, ordered from AutohausAZ. Seems like it was around $65.
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That's because the wheel is held to the car by the hub, not the CV joint. The wheel doesn't fall off even if you remove the CV...
Lack of grease can cause the joint to overhead and destroy itself, though. Plus the torn boot will be slinging grease all over everything.
Thanx. I'll check them out.
May be true for the 308 design, but on other cars the outer CV joint is integral to the splice shaft through the hub which preloads the wheel bearings.
We had a Titan 4WD in the shop a couple of weeks ago with that design... talk about a nightmare removing the CV. At one point I suggested the best course of action was a new truck.
Interesting. What was the nightmare? My 911 rear and Tahoe front are both that design and I've R&R the half shafts (inner/outer CV joints and spline shafts) without any issues. Bearings should be tight, just not tight enough to drive with the shaft out.
The original work order was to replace the ball joints, tie rod ends, and lower control arms. (Also the bushings, but they new control arm had them integrated). But as so many things go, it became apparent that the hub/cv was interfering with removing other parts - so, no problem - just remove the CV shaft and let's get the arm & knuckle out of the way.
I think it was a mix of age & corrosion, but ultimately the guy doing the job resorted to using the BFH to get it apart. Destroyed the threads for the nut, of course, so we ended up having to replace the CV assembly as well.
Sounds about like what I did to the Tahoe a couple wks ago. Luckily, even at 271k mile the half shaft splines slipped right out, no BFH required.
Whoa, that's some holiday magic right there!
Been following this post and even added a few suggestions, but does it really take 184 posts to document how to rebuild a CV joint?! This is not rocket science.
Very valuable pointers in this thread, I am going to do a differential seal replacement shortly on my 3.2, and take comfort in seeing how others have dealt with some practical things, like bracing the collar with studs and a bar to get the centre bolt off. It is not like we have a Haynes manual for these cars, this FChat thread and others like it are really important, keep them coming!
well, I am doing my boot again, one is leaking grease even though the boot is still on.
Having a hard time finding part numbers for the bolts and nuts or suitable replacement.
Anybody know what part numbers?
Not without a model and year.
The problem you are having is very common. The clamps were not tight enough. Not all clamps out there are up to the job.
101632 for the bolt
101633 for the nut
If we are still talking about a 308. On this thread you never know.
Both easily found on either the Ricambi or AW websites.
Aloha,I am having trouble removing the CV joint from the axle.......hitting it from the back with a rubber hammer...seems stuck....
Mahalo from Maui
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Common problem as there are often burrs where the groove for the circlip intersects the spline -- do you have the complete axle assembly removed so you can work on it on the bench?
Have you tried using a puller?