The engineers suggested 8620 heat treated to 46Rc. I assumed you have to make a new one????
There is only one snap ring/clip that holds it on the axle so you might as well remove it. It will probably break in the process of removal so you might as well hunt up replacements....most auto parts have them. I would also suggest that you mark the CV as to it orientation to the axle as I understand that its best to maintain the same direct. Some people may changing the direction to start the wear in a new area of the CV, but its best to keep it the same position. Appearently once the axle and CV are stressed in one direction it should not be changed. Balance may also be affected. My 2c.
Taking the CV joints apart is easy it's a matter of geometry, once you get the axle out you need to tip the inside to the proper angle and it will fall apart. Finding new snap rings that are exactly like the ones in my ferrari was impossible. Just be carful getting them out so you can re-use them. I was worried that the ears on a standard snap ring may cause some clearance problems but maybe not. It seems I remember that the thickness was non-standard as well. Maybe someone else here knows.
Here is a link to a supplier with the parts: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_SUSaxl_pg1.htm Does anyone know which part # is correct for the replacement CV joint assembly for my '85 308? Pelican parts lists two part numbers 923-332-032-00-M60 (911 (mid 1975-84)) and 930-332-034-00-M60 (911 Turbo (1977-84)) Are replacement CV joint gaskets required for the 308? No one has mentioned these in any prior discussion. Info on the correct replacement snap ring mentioned above would also be helpful since my parts manual doesn't list this separately from the CV joint assembly. Thanks. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Porsche snap rings are standard rings with the little ears with holes for snap ring pliers and the center hole is somewhat offset. The ferrari rings are thicker, don't have the ears and are perfectly concentric. The CV joints may be the same part as Porsche but I do not think the axles are. I went to Porsche dealer, VW dealer, a Dune Buggy shop and a transmission rebuilding shop no one had ever seen rings like the ones in the 308. The big question is: Does it hurt anything to just swap it for a standard snap ring (circlip), or will the ears interfere with the spline?
here is what i ordered for my 1982 mondial 8. even the circlips were identical to the "ferrari" ones. i replaced all 4 since they had never been re-greased or touched since new. 74k miles had taken there toll. these were an exact match, same manufacture too. Item Name Item Price Quantity Item Total 930-332-034-00-M60 CV Joint, 911 Turbo (1977-84) Brand: Loebro $72.50 4 $290.00 - Typically ships within 24 business hours. - This part may be shipped directly from the manufacturer. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subtotal: $290.00 Shipping: $47.50 Taxes: $23.93 Total Price: $361.43
Thanks smg2 for clarifying. I assume they are the same for the '85 308? On another note: Pic 1 - This is the boot kit I ordered and the provided snap ring. Does this mean that I have to do another scavenger hunt for the correct snap ring instead of the one provided?? Pic 2 - Also, as previously mentioned, are gaskets required like they are on the Porsche? Haven't seen these mentioned before. Lastly, what's everyone's thoughts on replacement of the 12 bolts and nuts for the shaft. Is it ok to reuse the old ones? I purchased 2 bolts and 6 nuts just in case I broke or damaged some during the job. This is my first time doing the CV joints and I want to make sure I have everything covered before disassembly. Thanks. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I've reused some of the axle cap screws. However, took a good at them, especially the heads. The cap screws that fought breaking loose usually had the heads pretty bacly chewed up. Replaced any that didn't look 100% as I sure didn't want to deal with a stripped out hex. Also took a good luck at the threads. Any that showed signs of deformation were replacced.
Impacto, the correct 911 boot kits for your car are not the later '87-'89 kits - you want the earlier '75 - '84 kits. For clarity, the CV joint and axle in a 308 or Mondial is exactly the same as a 911 through '84. I know this because I have both these cars in my garage and did cv boots on both cars at the same time. Yes, you are correct, the 911 CV joints call for use of a gasket and I did use this for the 911. However, there does't appear to be any indication of use of a gasket in the Ferrari parts manual so I left it out for the Ferrari. Good luck!
and as for the cv bolts, these aren't that expensive to buy if you have a good bolt/nut supply shop near you - about a $1.50 each in the correct strength rating. Given how much these tend to corrode due to proximity to the road surface, replacing is a good idea. One of these with a stripped hex head is no fun to have to try to remove.
Thanks for your thoughts, however, the boot kit I bought is the same one mentioned in page one of this thread as the one to buy: GKN Part# 928 332 924 02 - 911T 87-89. Is this not correct? Did you use the replacement snap ring with the CV boot kit or did you re-use the old ones since they are a different design? Thanks.
Was/has there been any difference (in use, leaks, noise, etc) between the joints with & the joints wihtout gaskets??
the gasket isn't going to effect noise but should keep the grease from finding a way out when it gets hot and viscous. i noticed a little grease spitting out from between the flange and CV on the inboard side near the diff. it only lasted a few miles but made a nice red colored splaterd pattern. the gasket would most likley have kept that from happening.
Impacto, I think you need the kit for a 911 years '75 through '84, not the kit for the later '87-'89 years. Probably not a lot of difference, however, if you have a 308 or 328 the earlier kit is the one to use I think. The snap ring on the end of the axle shaft holding the cv joint onto the shaft was supplied in the kits I used and it was exactly correct. The boot sealing rings were very similar to the ones that came stock with my ferrari - slip the end through and fold it back on itself. Helps to have a special tool which is available to ensure proper tension. Good luck!
Kind of hard to tell regarding noise as the axle with gaskets is on my 911 and the one without is on my ferrari. Both cars have stainless performance exhausts sans cats so cv noise doesn't even register. Neither appears to be spinning off any grease so maybe the gaskets are not essential....
What is the correct bolt size for the 308 CV Joints? I want to order 12 of them before I start this job. It was stated somewhere in the forum that the bolts are 65mm x 10mm. The bolts that Dennis McCann has are 75mm x 10mm (part #101632). The bolts that Pelican parts has are 60mm x 10mm (part# 900-067-118-01-M100). Which is correct?? Thanks.
Just as a follow up to this great thread - I finally started this job on my '85 QV. A few observations: 1: The outboard bolts were rusted solid. I sprayed with PB Blaster repeatedly over 3 days and tapped them with a hammer but they still were tough to get loose. The nuts WILL deform and round off so get an open-end wrench on the nut before you try a breaker bar on the bolts. I had to cut one nut off with a dremel. It took about 2 hours to get these out. The trans side bolts took all of 5 minutes with a 24" extension and an impact wrench! 2: The axle shaft DID NOT just fall off the transmission side when all bolts were removed. I had to use a 12" chisel and sledge hammer to get the CV joint unseated. 3: The CV joints DO NOT just come off the shaft once the circlip is removed (use Snap-On SRP3 tool to remove the circlips easily). I disassembled the trans side joint and had to use a sledge hammer and punch on the outer face of the inner race to get it and the cage off the shaft. The wheel side would not come off no matter what I did including using a claw puller. I just disassembled the joint and inspected the cage and inner race while still attached to the shaft. I'll post more if there are any other observations when I reassemble everything.
Michael, sounds like you had a tough time there - no doubt mostly due to corrosion working against you. If there's not much corrosion it's a much easier job to get everything apart. No fun having to dremel the ferrari "lock" nuts off - yes, you're right, they will round off when undoing the bolt (despite being designed not to do this). I'd reco replacing all the fastners with new stuff rated for the job. There are specialty nut/bolt co's that can supply everything such as Tacoma Nut & Screw Products. Good luck!
David, I just wanted to say thank you for the excellent write up. I removed one of my half-axles and replaced the boot yesterday. In Idaho....during winter...in an unheated garage. Let's just say there is a special kind of pain when one's hands are very, very cold and they make accelerated contact with an unmovable object. Oh yes, special it is. Nontheless, the 328 won't be slinging grease from the that joint any longer and I really do appreciate your effort in putting together the thread. Otherwise, I'd still be out there...in the cold. Angry...oh, so..angry. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Dave. Thanks for a great thread, I am about to replace a boot on my '88. Now I just have to find the right bits herre in sunny UK. Gnasher.
