308 Air Pump gone bad

Had the shock of my life yesterday. Went out for a short drive later in the early evening. After stopping by Von's for a quick errand for the wife, I started up the car and it sounded like the valve train was self destructing. I turned the car off immediately and began checking out various causes. Everything looked ok, but what can you reall tell just looking in the engine bay? I called Gary Bobileff and he suggested looking into the Air Pump but to have it towed in if necessary. I disconnected the belt and started up the car; all was quite. Got home quick and removed the pump. Went by Autozone and picked up a smog pump for a 1978 Camero and it was an exact match ($49.00 plus tax).

I will repost after completing the work and report how it went.

Dan

 

Cardone Reman / Smog Pump AutoZone Part Number 32-107
1978 Camaro 5.0 L 2BL OHV

Here is the current update. I took the defective air pump into AutoZone where they exchanged it for a rebuilt unit and $49.99. The first unit I examined was from a 1982 Camaro. The previous owner had the unit chrome plated. It looked great but sounded horrible when I turned the pump. It wasn’t an exact match but close enough it would have worked. Next we looked at the 1978 unit. It was an exact match, or so I thought. At check out the clerk even threw in a free bottle of Carb Out injector cleaner.

After returning home and beginning to refit the air pump I ran into an issue. The bolt that attaches the air pump to the mounting bracket would not pass through the mounting area of the air pump. The hole wasn’t large enough for the bolt to pass through. Upon further examination it appeared the inside of the shaft area was threaded on both ends of the air pump. I went to Home Depot, talking the mounting bolt with me. After measuring the bolt, I bought a 3/8” drill bit, passed it through the shaft and the mounting problem was solved.

It went back on just like before. I started up the car. Now there is a “hissing” noise coming from the top side of the engine near the firewall. There is also a “popping noise” in the exhaust on deceleration. This is new. I am guessing another of the exhaust “test tubes” have worked loose. Any thoughts or comments are welcomed.
Dan
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I have put less than 1,000 miles on the car since the previous air pump was replaced. It also was a rebuild unit. It began making a noise that sounded like the valve train going bad. I stopped the car immediatly and looked into the engine bay. I didn't see anything out of place. Started up the car and could still hear the noise. The pully was turning on the air pump so it hadn't frozen up yet. The bearing must have just begun to fail on the unit. I do agree the check valves should be changed (also the diverter valve). I will do this after sorting out the air leak and report back what I discover. Thanks for the insights.

Dan

 

Does anyone know the part number for the two check valves? I will just take the old ones off along with the diveter valve and take them with me to the parts store. I'd like to think they could find the part off the numbers on the valves. Any thoughts? Thanks ahead of time.
Dan

 

Can anyone help with suggestions and/or tips for removing the check valves on my 1978 GTS? I removed the air pump to get more access. The threads on the check valve don't want to break. I have used penetrating oil but no luck so far. Thanks.
Dan