2014 California - Cylinder misfire code HELP

Is your mechanic Ferrari trained? If not - make sure you take your car to a qualified Ferrari mechanic.

 

The first thing I would do is replace the battery with a good 990CCA+ AGM battery. And make sure you have a good tender. (This is what I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BH8D85S7/) Ferraris and their sensors are very sensitive to voltage fluctuations. It only takes someone forgetting to put the tender on a couple of times to ruin the battery. It might start just fine, but you can get all kinds of intermittent trouble codes with a poor battery.

The next easy step is to replace the coil packs on the misfiring cylinders. (Note both Ferrari and Maserati coils are the same and have the same part number, 281449, but the Maserati coils are often half the price.) These are relatively cheap and could be the source of the misfires. Also note that when misfires occur, a lot of cascading havoc occurs with DTC codes.

Are the misfires all on the same cylinder and/or same side of the engine? I believe cylinder 7 is the drivers side (in the US), second closest to the air filter.

The next thing I would do is check the electrical connection on the fuel pressure sensor located on the fuel rail. Not sure if you can easily get at it though. It might be a bad sensor based on the codes above.

You need to remove a lot of parts, including the intake manifold, to access the fuel rails, injectors, pressure sensors and high-pressure fuel pumps. It is a real pain in the ass job. Download the workshop manual if you are going to do it yourself. If you are paying someone to do the work, you might want to replace the entire fuel rail assembly w/ injectors and pressure sensor on the problem side and possibly even the high-pressure fuel pump on that bank. (I don't usually suggest throwing parts at a problem, but the incremental cost is nominal if you are already taking the manifold off.)

I successfully diagnosed a recurring misfire at 6,800 RPM on my 2010 Cali a few years ago. It was caused by a defective high-pressure fuel pump that couldn't keep up at high RPM. It ran great at low RPM. After replacing the coils and fuel injectors on the problem bank, which did not work, I realized that the commanded fuel pressure from the ECM was higher than the actual fuel pressure when the misfires occurred. I ended up replacing the high-pressure pump (which required removing the intake manifold again!) but it has been flawless ever since.

 

I am not sure this is necessarily true. Just make sure the tech is competent and has a copy of the workshop manual. Yes, experience can help diagnose common problems, but an independent mechanic who can work on a modern imports should be able to do most things at a fraction of the cost. You would be amazed by who is actually performing most of the work at Ferrari dealerships. They often have far less experience than a guy running an independent shop.

I would still have serious engine and transmission work performed by a Ferrari-trained mechanic.

 

I mis-spoke & should have said "Ferrari familiar" as the original poster never specified if his mechanic had any Ferrari familiarity at all. I do use an independent Ferrari mechanic as we don't have a Ferrari dealership in KC. Even if we did - I can't really justify Ferrari shop rates for my 2011 Cali.

 

With the comment about not using a battery tender, the symptoms suggest a battery change and then use a tender. On Cali T a battery change can throw bad codes for 6-10 cycles of starting and then driving the car, with the error messages changing with each cycle until system settles down.

 

I have other thoughts:

Perhaps it is not a coincidence that it occurred after your attempt to clean the fuel system with those chemicals. You could have fouled a fuel injector and that is why you are getting the error code related to high pressure and a misfire on one cylinder. These cars are direct injected, have a two fuel pumps, and I am not sure using those chemicals was a good idea in a direct injected high tolerance laden vehicle.

If it is the battery - which is possible, consider getting a Braille or AntiGravity Lithium Ion Battery. They are a 1/3 of the weight and if you get the correct one has better characteristics for what is a very finicky electrical system. They're batteries are 3 or 4 times the cost but they are leaps and bounds better technology.

 

It is most likely a bad battery or just low charge. I had the similar problems a few weeks ago after being serviced by the dealer .. It also sat at the dealer for 2 months as I was getting the dash recovered and some other none related work done. When the car got back it went into limp mode .. would not go over 5000 rpm ... I plugged the battery tender in for a few days as the battery tested good ... So after charging it The problem did not go away.. but I drove it per my dealers advise.. Then after about a week or so of driving everyday .. and being on the tender every night ...The problem just cleared up the lights went away and suddenly it ran perfect.. I have had the engine control system light come on many times with no other systems.. but this time was different .. I came to the conclusion the maybe the car was transported with a full tank of gas (it was) and that somehow caused fuel return pressure bad reading putting me in limp mode... The was on my 2013 California.. ...good luck ..oh one more thing I replaced the fuel tank cap with a new one as that has been an issue before.. on another Ferrari car....