1998 550 Maranello "sorting" thread--DIY | Page 40 | FerrariChat

1998 550 Maranello "sorting" thread--DIY

Discussion in '456/550/575' started by moorfan, Aug 15, 2011.

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  1. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
    Full Name:
    Pete
    There is no gasket on the factory exhaust. From what I remember, the car side of the muffler connection has a rounded edge that fits into a rounded depression on the back of the factory muffler. This car had first generation tubi on it when I bought it, and I believe that you probably will still have to take the rear bumper off, simply because of the size of the factory cans. And Carl is right, just put a plug in both of the two vacuum hose connections to the valves on the factory exhaust cans. Some people like to use broken golf tees, I would recommend using a fine thread screw with a bolt cap on top of it, wrapped in duct tape.
     
  2. Cribbj

    Cribbj Formula 3

  3. ///Mink

    ///Mink Formula Junior

    Sep 5, 2006
    808
    Fair Oaks, CA
    Full Name:
    Tom Mink
    #978 ///Mink, Jul 2, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2017
    You can normally re-use the gaskets. No need to remove the rear bumper, though you may have to tweak the heat shields a bit to get the old mufflers out. The Tubis are much smaller so they go in like buttah. Like mentioned above, plug the vacuum lines and tie them up out of the way.

    Edit - now that I think about it, there are no gaskets at the back of the cans. There *are* gaskets under the exhaust tips that can normally be reused if you decide unbolt the tips for some reason. And in fact, I may have done just that trying to remove the old mufflers.
     
  4. luca's308gts

    luca's308gts Karting

    Dec 16, 2016
    81
    Minneapolis
    Full Name:
    Bill
    Well we swapped the OME exhaust for the Tubis. Much as you guys suggested this was not a big deal;
    1. Remove the rear panel
    2. We loosened the bolts to the exhaust pipes, then just 'cracked' the bolts that attached to the hangers.
    3. The factory exhaust are HEAVY so we supported them with pieces of 4x4s and shims
    4. Rather than removing the back bumper we loosened the back panel of the wheel well liners to give some room to get the stock exhaust out.
    5. We plugged the vacuum hoses with machine screws (golf tees would work just fine) clamped them off with the hose clamps, then jip tied up out of the way.
    6. Bolting up the Tubis was straight forward - they are much lighter than the OMEs. Biggest issue was getting the positioning correct in the space provided in the bumper - 1 person held them in place while the other tighten them up.

    Now the important item - how did it sound - wow. Virtually a different car, it has gone from very fast capable GT to a multi personality car. First it starts with a bark that will get attention, then settles into 1k +/- rpms. After that its all about where the revs are; between 2200 & 2800 it sounds docile similar to OME, the higher you go the more it sounds like it is ready for a track day. At 2200 - 2800 I'll have no problem with the Police, at the high rev range I'll have to be careful.

    All that said I do have a question for you guys, given I've reduced back pressure are there any implications on the engine or does the ECU compensate?
     
  5. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
    Full Name:
    Pete

    Videos with good quality audio or it DIDN'T HAPPEN!!!! :)
    Glad to hear it went well!
    Regards,
    Pete
     
  6. Cribbj

    Cribbj Formula 3

    Others have put on aftermarket exhausts, including Tubis, without any apparent problems, although I calculated the injector capacity one time and IIRC there's not much "headroom" with them for increased HP.

    If you're concerned, you can monitor the precat O2 sensor values and the short term fuel trim values and/or pull the plugs and see if they're normal (golden) or lean (white).
     
  7. luca's308gts

    luca's308gts Karting

    Dec 16, 2016
    81
    Minneapolis
    Full Name:
    Bill
    Ok since several of you are 550/Ferrari experts I have a few storage questions; I'm in Minnesota so the snow & salt will soon fly thus the toys get put away.
    The 550 will sit in the garage for 5 months +/-.
    Given Pete did all the fluids 5 months ago, I'll wait until next summer for that.
    I plan on stabilizing the gas (full tank ethanol free gas), question Stab-Il or Sea Foam - I've used Stab-Il on the Porsches for years with no problem.
    Second question; do I start the car, I've had 3 different recommendations;
    1.Start and shut off as soon as oil pressure is up.
    2. If I start it get it up to operating temp before shutting off.
    3. Don't start it until I'm ready to car for a ride
    Battery tender will be on and I'll push it back & forth every few weeks to prevent/reduce tire flat spots.
    Am I missing anything?
    Thanks
     
  8. Mon the fish

    Mon the fish Karting

    Dec 27, 2013
    116
    I leave mine for a similar length of time in an Aberdeenshire winter.
    - I use fuel stabiliser in a full tank
    - Don't start it until you're going to use it - for 5 months it'll be fine to leave it on trickle charge
    - Tyres inflated to 45psi and put on 'tyre trainers' to stop them getting flat spots

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
     
  9. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
    Full Name:
    Pete
    I remember reading years ago that there was a thought that starting the car once every few weeks or so and letting it run up to operating temperature was good for the timing belts; I believe I read this from the TR guys years ago. The argument was that the timing belts remained more "malleable" by not sitting for long lengths of time under tension in one spot. I don't know what the *real* mechanics on this board think about that idea.
    I personally used to like to let it idle up to operating temperature while running the heater to circulate coolant around the system for the anticorrosion benefits of the coolant; usually every couple of weeks. Its a nice way to heat up the garage ;-)
    I also used to put Stabil in the fuel tank for the winter but honestly on beautiful days in the middle of the winter here in VA I used to take her out for a drive, as long as there wasn't lots of salt/sand on the ground.
     
  10. bergxu

    bergxu Formula 3

    Aug 16, 2005
    1,305
    OnTheSerpentMound
    Full Name:
    Aaron
    When I put my cars away for winter, I brim the fuel tank, add Stabil to the fuel (before filling the fuel in so it mixes nicely), clean the car inside and out, inflate the tires to 50psi and either disconnect the battery or put a maintainer on it and just leave the car sit without touching it until the first drive of spring. Has always worked fine for my Ferraris and my Triumphs for decades. I never start them to just let them warm up unless I were to get one out for a drive of an hour or more if the roads are clear of salt but generally I just wait till spring and they stay out of sight out of mind till April 1. My DD is a Quattroporte so I find it scratches the exotic itch through winter well enough that I don't even mind the Ferrari being laid up.


    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     
    NE550 likes this.
  11. luca's308gts

    luca's308gts Karting

    Dec 16, 2016
    81
    Minneapolis
    Full Name:
    Bill
    Thanks all for your input - I hadn't thought about the belts, it will be interesting to see what the "real" mechanics think
     
  12. Mon the fish

    Mon the fish Karting

    Dec 27, 2013
    116
    I wouldn't worry about the belts sitting for the winter - how long have they sat on some of the low mileage garage queens?

    For 5 months or so they'll be fine, they're changed well before they're life expired anyway

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
     
  13. luca's308gts

    luca's308gts Karting

    Dec 16, 2016
    81
    Minneapolis
    Full Name:
    Bill
    Ok, now that Spring isn't too far away I have a exhaust question; my 550 now has Tubi's (first generation) and I believe Bradan straight pipes - and it is too loud.
    The ideal sound I'm looking for is something similar to the 275s or the 365s. Any thoughts on how or if I can get there?
    Thanks
     
  14. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jul 19, 2008
    38,075
    Clarksville, Tennessee
    Full Name:
    Terry H Phillips
    An X-pipe or Fabio's H pipe will tone down the sound. If you want the real F1 sound, you need Fabio's 6-1 headers.
     
  15. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
    Full Name:
    Pete
    Ah yes Luca, you can see why I took those things off. When I first bought this car it had first generation Tubis on it and to ME it sounded like a buzzsaw. Too loud.

    Its hard to know which exhaust wouldn't be "too loud" for any one user; everyone's opinion is subjective.

    I know with my R8 one of the reasons that I chose an Akrapovic titanium exhaust over a Capristo or any of the others on the market was because it is less loud than those others. In fact, the fact that it isn't very "loud" is a frequent knock on the Akrapovic exhaust for the V10 R8 by teenage fanboys.....
    Maybe you can check out whether Akrapovic makes an exhaust for the 550? They are expensive but from having personally installed it on the R8 I can testify that it is a very high quality, well-made product.
     
  16. JimEakin

    JimEakin Formula Junior

    Jun 13, 2015
    988
    Mountain Living
    Full Name:
    Jim
    I put the stock resonator back on after I tried straight through pipes. I have a loud Stebro exhaust. Went from 90+ dB interior noise with straight pipes to about 78 dB with the resonator. That's about 1/2 as loud. Consider: loud music in a bar is about 95 dB.
     
  17. LorenzoOO

    LorenzoOO Formula Junior

    Sep 21, 2017
    787
    Italia, US NE
    Full Name:
    Lorenzo LaMattina
    How does that 78dB compare to the stock exhaust system?
     
  18. Fennicus

    Fennicus Formula Junior

    Apr 10, 2015
    592
    Helsinki, Finland
    Full Name:
    Pekka T.
    Hi,

    I guess those are not measured values or are they? The decibel scale is logarithmic, so the power difference between 80 dB and 90 dB is not twice as loud, or 1/2 as loud, it is ten times louder! So a difference between 78 dB (safe) and 90 dB would be HUGE, the higher value actually being also harmful to your ears in the long run. I will again do my best to keep all noises to a minimum on the 456GT, exhaust, wind noise, tire noise etc. so I can again do some tour with it without being exhausted every night. :)
     
  19. luca's308gts

    luca's308gts Karting

    Dec 16, 2016
    81
    Minneapolis
    Full Name:
    Bill
    Now that the snow & salt are gone I took the 550 out yesterday for the first time in 4 months. All fine but one problem; the accelerator stuck. Turned out to be mechanical, drivers side where the cable attaches to the throttle body. I just 'fiddled' with it and it snapped back to the closed position. (I had noticed that the gas peddle was pretty stiff before it stuck.) I subsequently drove the car (carefully) with no further problems for about 50 miles, but never depressing the accelerator very far/hard. I now recall the stiff gas peddle (like a very stiff return spring) last summer but not being familiar with the car didn't think much about it.
    Ok any thoughts on why and what I should do?
    Thanks
     
  20. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    26,417
    socal
    This is a really important thread on 550 repair.

    Pete did a great job sorting his 550 and the integrity of his post should prevail. The last 10 posts at least have nothing to do with Pete's sorting.

    I recommend we take other new issues to new posts so the search function can work better for specific issues in the future.
     
    Konadog06 likes this.
  21. 00 550

    00 550 Formula Junior

    Oct 20, 2009
    412
    FL
    Full Name:
    That guy
    I am attempting to replace the two temperature sensors and one temp sender underneath the air intake manifold and I greatly appreciate Moorfan's amazing step by step guide. It has so far helped immensely. I have one question I hope someone can answer. Does anyone know how to take apart the black plastic piece at the center of this picture, at the back of manifold? It appears to be threaded and plastic. Please see pic I have everything else disconnected and don't want to screw up now! Thanks for any help
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  22. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
    Full Name:
    Pete
    Unscrew the connector on the backside. Otherwise, that gold colored ring that holds it bolts to the manifold IIRC
     
  23. 00 550

    00 550 Formula Junior

    Oct 20, 2009
    412
    FL
    Full Name:
    That guy
    I mean the black regulator ( i think) at the top of pic that is already disassembled. I think i can get the connection at gold colored nut where your 90 degree screw driver is. Sorry, this is probably simple, i just have knack for getting excited and messing up the easy parts
     
  24. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
    Full Name:
    Pete
    No, I know what you mean. That "thing" you have disconnected is the connector for the fuel injector wiring harness, and at the base of the threads is a knurled plastic ring, if you unscrew that ring the harness will come out of the gold ring.
     
  25. 00 550

    00 550 Formula Junior

    Oct 20, 2009
    412
    FL
    Full Name:
    That guy
    Ok. I think I see what you mean. Thank you. I will try tomorrow. FYI I lost only two of the 24 plenum screws in the engine bay! Hopefully I'll find them when I pull it off
     

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