1986 Ferrari Testarossa exhaust manifold torque

how do you like to torque exactly all nuts when you not can reach them directly?
unfortunately you not filled out your profile much, so nobody knows how skilled you are. so if you will work only from WSM then better close this book and use your brain and experience

 

Maybe because no one torques them.

There are not torque specs for every nut and bolt on a car. Experience, training, judgement applies to 90% of the fasteners on the car. Due to their location and the tools required accurately torquing the manifolds to the heads is impossible. As a rule of thumb those are 8mm studs so 18 lbs would be a standard torque spec.

Why did you remove the exhaust to do a service? I leave them completely intact.

Also there are 12 nuts per side and a brass nut would be a bad choice. Ferrari used a copper plated steel nut. Brass would not survive with the amount of heat involved.

 

stalwart as you will tighten all 8 mm nuts. those nuts are 8 mm, not 13 as you write. and because of this misswriting I was asking about your skill. the nuts have an outside size of 13 mm, but they are 8 mm nuts

 

Got it

 

Yes this place can be tough. You can post innocent pictures of your engine rebuilt staying things look good. And then you get people being dicks about it. But then those same people can provide helpful information.

So it's rather annoying.

Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

 

Sometimes, absolutely. I have no desire to be like so many others here and help someone get way in way over their head. Far too many here are doing jobs they have no business doing. If its my advice I choose who to give it to and I have zero need to apologize for it.

And I will say asking for a torque spec for an 8mm exhaust nut is very close to it. As I have told so many empoyees over the years "There are some things I really should not have to explain".

 

He was talking about turbo-joe's "filling out the profile" fetish.

 

You need to read it more carefully. At the very least read the quotes he used. Said nothing about filling out a profile.

And Joe is right.

 

I know, but earlier on Joe was asking him to fill out the profile so he knows his skill profile etc.

 

I will do so in the future for you, also put you on ignore
but sad that you not can distinguish between a 8 mm and a 13 mm nut

and also sad to use my writng 2 times for your answer

 

Frisky bunch.

 

Turbo-joe what the heck? Nicks been in here for years.
There’s nothing wrong with giving people the benefit of the doubt either.

if you even clicked on his profile you’d see it’s full of these questions. This being his first Testarossa he’s working on he’s learning a lot.

 

I believe a mis-translation.
13mm is the hex size and the stud is 8 mm. Maybe I'm wrong!

 

That is not a mistranslation. All fasteners are described using the dimension of the shanks, as in M8 for 8mm. The size, or kind of the head is not used in their dimensional description. Many M8 fasteners have 12mm head size, or allen size, or 12 point size, or torx size. They are still M8 fasteners.

But, it is easy to use the wrench size in calling out a fastener even if it is not correct. It does cause confusion sometimes.

 

I'm curious here...why copper plated steel nuts?

 

Copper plated nuts: heat and corrosion.

 

Thanks.

 

I believe the intention is that the Cu plating acts as a sort of antiseize that can withstand the high temp (and prevent the corrosion). Does it work? Sort of .

 

Use this. Remember not to over torque with lubricant.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Copper-Anti-Seize-Brush-38650/dp/B01M9AVHR8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1NR6UZ17KE73I&keywords=copper+anti-seize&qid=1686953563&sprefix=Copper+anti-,aps,164&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Technically: Good and tight with a 1/4” drive (one hand). Very firmly snugged up with a 3/8” drive (two hands).