1979 308 GT4

Damn, now you're gonna make me have to dig out the electrical schematics. Mine runs nice and cool, even in the Texas heat, thanks to the Crallmeister's fine work on my water pump.

A friend was driving in front of me and said at first no fans were running, and then a single fan came on. I *think* I had the A/C running the whole time. Thank you for the clues... I'll let you know what I figure out.

 

Had to believe this thread is almost ten years old. Re-subscribed to post more pictures.

Due to various family issues, I'm working out of my garage. Seems as dad is well into his 80s he is convinced since he bought his car storage/workshop building when he was younger than I am now, I need to buy my own building; not use his shop or his lift. I guess I'll just be happy I have dedicated garage space for 3 Italian cars, though it is a little cramped at times.
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Major issue at hand is a radiator hose leak as mentioned earlier.

 

Here is the hose from above. It is the lower radiator hose on the passenger side of the radiator. I actually had to use this iPhone photo to see where the other hose clamp is positioned. I can't see if from above. Had to get the screwdriver on it and loosen it by feel only.
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While I'm doing this hose, I'll do the other two hoses under the inspection plate. This is the inspection plate. I decided to get a new one as this one is pretty beat up.
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The plate did clean up and straighten out, but a new one from superperformance is on its way. New fasteners obtained from Bellmetric.
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I had to cut one of the hose clamps off here as the mechanism was frozen.
This shows where the two hoses were, under the inspection panel.

Did I mention I'm not using my father's lift? This is all possible without a lift or jackstands. It does require a lot of one-handed finesse.

Sorry for the upside down picture (thanks iPhone, it shows in the correct orientation on my desktop computer).
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Original radiator hoses, small pieces measured about 2 and 3/4 inches in length.
Replaced with Gates green stripe, cut with hacksaw and miter box.

Original hose clamps were Surflex 32-52mm which were 8mm in width.
Since the Surflex clamps on the care are no longer serviceable and new ones are no longer available, I went with Norma clamps from Bellmetric.

I used Navel Jelly and sandpaper to clean up the ends of the aluminum tubes.
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First is the lower radiator hose replacement; the one that started this whole thing. I have the clamps oriented so they can be easily tightened from above.
Next the picture shows that re-doing the two hoses under the front panel had the added advantage of moving the pipes to the original location, as evident by the clearance I now have in the engine bay. See where the stud (covered with protective rubber cap) had been touching the cooling pipe before I got the car.
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With the front undertray off, I gave it a good inspection and deemed it necessary to repair and re-finish it.
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Holes and gouges filled (Bondo fiberglass filler in a tube. Refrigerated, otherwise it set instantly in 90 degree ambient heat). Primed (Rustoleum sanding primer for plastic 180 grit followed by Krylon for plastic and 400 grit) and painted with SEM bumper black. 35psi thinned 1:1 with lacquer thinner. 3 coats with some sanding (400 dry) in between coats. Let rest 48 hrs. before installation.
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Well that looks good enough for under the car. Hope I don't scratch it pulling out of the drive!
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With the front grill off the horns are easily removed for re-paint.
The red finish came off with lacquer thinner.
The bodies were re-painted with Krylon Primer and 3542 Greek Stone Krylon.
Overspray on the plastic caps and red hoses was removed with lacquer thinner.
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Metal ring was polished with Gravity RC polish.
Horns were just stripped with lacquer thinner and sprayed with Duplicolor MC200 RED ANODIZED. Too light and they look pink. Too thick and the transparency is lost.
Bracket sprayed with Silver anti-rust paint. New Hardware (stainless steel; 13mm head bolts/nuts)
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Nice work!!!

Thanks for posting.

 

Looking good. Thanks for the pics.

 

wow those look great I need to do that too! Do the horns come completely off. I dont want to break anything!

 

The horns don't come apart. The plastic protector on the end comes off, that is all. Just mask them well.

 

While I have the lights popped up, time for new headlights. Sylvania H5001 x2 and H5006 x2.

 

Bumper painting today. Way back in this thread I ran into difficulty with fisheyes when painting the rear bumper. That was back in 2007 (http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/136931929-post441.html) and only now I am getting the courage to do the front bumper. These things are just so heavy and awkward to manage. I was kind of wishing for someone to come up with an aluminum bolt-on identical replacement.

Anyway to ward off the evils of fisheyes I first stripped the previous coatings of black from the bumper with lacquer thinner. I tried paint stripper, but it softened the rubber and caused chips from the spatula.

I am following the SEM prep instructions to the letter.
I'm using their scrubbing agent followed by their spray prep/cleaner.
The new formulation of the bumper coat does not require thinning.

 

Bumper ends getting scuffed (lacquer thinner used first to remove the old paint).
The new quart of SEM bumper paint is a different formula. It says so on the label and the instructions are different. No thinning is needed and it claims no adhesive agent is needed.
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The new bumper paint does not flow out like the old stuff. It gives a more textured appearance. Maybe I'll try some retarder. Otherwise it dose not look bad, but does not match the smooth appearance of the rear bumper.
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Perhaps some fitment issues with the new front panel. Due to the extra holes on my current panel, and its thin construction, I think it is not original, so I need to do a little research to see which one is correct. The new one is also much thicker aluminum.
Existing Panel = 0.84mm
New Panel = 1.485mm
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Work in progress.
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This is the "BEFORE" picture of the front bumper.
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