1975 - 4.9 is firing badly. Distributor cap, or anything else..? | Page 2 | FerrariChat

1975 - 4.9 is firing badly. Distributor cap, or anything else..?

Discussion in 'Maserati' started by 71Satisfaction, Jul 3, 2020.

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  1. thecarnut

    thecarnut F1 Rookie
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    Apr 22, 2006
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    I think a return to the basics is in order. I would start by bench testing the spark plug wires with an ohm meter. The problem might be something as simple as a bad crimp connection in the wire between the coil and the cap. Then connect the coil wire to a spark plug and have someone crank the engine while you watch the spark. You should have a consistent strong spark. That would tell you that the breakerless ignition and Bosch amplifier are working properly. If the spark is weak or erratic then you are much closer to determining the problem. The rest of the ignition system is the rotor and cap which I doubt are the problem since you already replaced them.

    Ivan
     
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  2. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    Bob
    This Youtube isn't about ignition in the way you need but it does show how you can turn your laptop into an oscilloscope for not much money which I think will allow you to test everything. I think I'd start with making sure that pickup in the distributor is generating the right wave form and amplitude to drive the Bosch Box. I bet you can record the results in a file and send it to the guy who was so helpful checking out your box. He might even suggest one to buy and give you some pointers. I wish these had been around when I had all my trouble back in 1992. I wasted two years ...



    Good luck.
     
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  3. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula 3

    Jul 15, 2012
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    Thanks both,
    An Ohm meter I do have, so I can check the plug wires. I will also double check correct firing order at the cap in case I got any of them wrong.

    Jumping the coil to a plug, I will see one spark plug getting all 8 sparks, by connecting the coil wire directly to it, and grounding the plug to the block.

    Got it, I'll see what that shows. Thank you guys.
    - Art
     
  4. JL350

    JL350 Karting

    Jan 20, 2013
    205
    You mentioned the coil before, but did you replace it?

    Also you mentioned not getting any spark, did you check the earths?
     
  5. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula 3

    Jul 15, 2012
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    Thank you,
    - I am getting spark - the problem is the spark misses, very randomly. It consistently misses #3 at idle, and under throttle it misses everywhere randomly. So I WILL look for Ground short at #3 plug wire, which may spread to other plug wire under throttle. I'll wait til nightfall to see ground sparks in the darkness.

    - I am told coils fail permanently, not intermittently. So I have not replaced the coil. I will check it though.

    I'm also PM'img JamesPeter26 to ask if he had to replace components within the distributor. When the green wire shorted out, I wonder if it *may* have damaged the internal pickup? But I think the green wire is just an 'open/closed' wire with very little current.. ?

    Back to the garage, Cheers.
    - Art
     
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  6. boralogist

    boralogist Formula Junior

    Jun 21, 2005
    998
    Please note that an ignition coil failure can be permanent, causing a no spark no start condition or it can be intermittent, causing a cylinder-specific misfire condition or a random misfire.
     
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  7. thecarnut

    thecarnut F1 Rookie
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    If #3 is consistently missing that is a good thing as it makes it easier to find the problem.
    Do you have the original style Cavis solid wire spark plug wires or are they resistive wires?

    Swap the #3 wire at the spark plug with either the #2 or #4 wire, do the same at the cap. Is #3 now firing? If it fires then the problem is in the spark plug wires.

    If it is still not firing then put everything back the way you found it and check continuity from inside the distributor cap for#3 to the spark plug connector . If the car has solid wires there should barely be any resistance.
    If that all checks out then it is time to move upstream a bit and check the breakerless ignition. If I recall the Bora distributor uses metal rods that rotate in front of a magnetic sensor. This generates signals that tells the Bosch amplifier to trigger the coil. Rotate the engine until the rotor is pointing to the #3 wire on the cap. Is the gap between the metal rod and the sensor consistent with all the other cylinders? Perhaps the sensor gap for some reason is too large. Find out the proper gap setting and make sure it is within specs.

    Did you try what I suggested of connecting a spark plug to the wire from the coil to the cap? If there is problem in the breakerless ignition it will manifest itself with a spark pattern that is not consistent. If spark pattern is not consistent the problem could also be in the coil. If the spark is strong and consistent then the problem has to be between the cap and the spark plugs.

    Ivan
     
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  8. boralogist

    boralogist Formula Junior

    Jun 21, 2005
    998
    OK---let me rephrase:
    IMHO---FWIW---please spend 90 seconds and try a new coil.

    Regards.
     
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  9. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    I see that parts swap out mode is still the preferred approach.

    Get a better tool and learn about how to diagnose the entire ignition system with it. Once you do this starting at the very lowest level of the system through the final HE output you'll find it.

    Maybe post up a video with good audio ot the engine running poorly too.
     
  10. JL350

    JL350 Karting

    Jan 20, 2013
    205
    Art, electrical gremlins are always fun to track down... the reference I made to the earths, or grounds are that there should be some grounding straps or cables between various components in the engine bay, ie battery and engine, to the chassis etc. Whenever troubleshooting electrical faults I like to check that the connections are sound and haven’t come loose or broken from vibration etc. Any loss of earthing in the ignition system can reduce electrical continuity in the system and cause faults. Mostly they are easy to check and cheap/easy to fix if you know where to find them.

    good luck with the search
     
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  11. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula 3

    Jul 15, 2012
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    Thank you all,
    I'm strapped, so only able to spend maybe 15-30 minutes at a time.
    - I ran the Bora in the darkened garage last night after a methodical cleaning of wires, sheaths, brackets, connections, etc. The darkness would make any arcs more visible... There was no apparent visible arcing of sparks or power to ground.
    - I had also loosened the wire loom brackets and keepers, so I could move all the wires and wire bundles to look at them from many angles, in case the position of the wiring would eliminate a ground-fault while the car was running. ....Nothing I did to re-position the wiring changed the way the engine ran.

    I am thankful for the useful advice and suggestions, it will just take some time to get to each step along the way. My next session will be spent checking ground straps, and checking the voltage at the battery positive cable to the rear starter terminal so I can set up the timing light to better probe which plugs and plug wires are or aren't firing.

    Ivan; The plug wires are original style, and I am employing an induction timing light to tell me if any given coil or distributor plug wire is transmitting a spark. I am not employing a spark plug. My assumption is the induction timing light is as good as "seeing" a spark or power pulse in any given plug/coil wire.

    I will get around to each suggestion:
    - Check the coil, or try replace it with another.
    - Transplant my friend's Khamsin CDI into my Bora as soon as the Suspa gas struts arrive for me to install.
    - I also have a Colortune sparkplug I can use to check for spark.

    Thanks, hurrying to get some time in,
    - Art
     
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  12. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula 3

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    #37 71Satisfaction, Sep 2, 2020
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2020
    Coil...?


    I pulled the coil out of the Bora and brought it to my bench. Since it's pins are labeled A and B, I didn't know which one is positive, or negative.

    I attached the probes to check readings between both the A-to-HighOutput and B-to-HighOutput.

    Both readings are the same: 0.476 K-ohms. Photo attached. This is extremely low, am I right? Average coils are in the 4,000 to 10,000ohm range.. so this is seems to indicate an internal short?

    To be clear: It matters not which terminals A or B I am measuring against the center High Output terminal. Both are the same.

    What say you all?
    - Art
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  13. boralogist

    boralogist Formula Junior

    Jun 21, 2005
    998

    Step 1

    Disconnect your engine's main negative battery cable.

    Step 2

    Pull the main ignition coil wire, the one that leads to the distributor, off the coil. Disconnect the small grounding wire, attached to the side of the coil.

    Step 3
    Turn on the multimeter and set it to the "ohms" function.

    Step 4
    Insert one of the multimeter's probes into the center opening of the coil, contacting the metal terminal inside the coil. Touch the second probe of the meter to the ignition coil's grounding terminal. The meter should read 6,000 to 15,000 ohms. If it does not, the coil's secondary winding is faulty.

    Remove meter's probe from the center terminal and touch it to the terminal bolt on the opposite side of the coil from the probe touching the grounding terminal. The meter should read between approximately 0.4 and 2 ohms. If it does not, the coil's primary winding is faulty.
     
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  14. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula 3

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    Thank you, so you agree it's a coil failure?

    Step 1 - Done.
    Step 2 - Completely removed from the car*.
    Step 3 - Done.
    Step 4 - The pins aren't labeled (+) or (-), just A or B. I tested each A and B pin against the center High Output and got the same 0.476 Kohm (476 ohm) reading.

    *the Bora's OEM connector integrates both pins so I can't remove one at a time per Step 2.

    Ergo internal short between secondary and primary = coil failure. ?
    - Art



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  15. boralogist

    boralogist Formula Junior

    Jun 21, 2005
    998

    IMHO---supporting data for my 'telepathic' diagnosis:)
     
  16. thecarnut

    thecarnut F1 Rookie
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    There is absolutely nothing wrong with those coil readings as they match those on my Bora. That does not mean that the coil could be breaking down under electrical load but at least those reading are perfectly fine.

    Art: please follow the suggestions I gave you and do not deviate. It seems to me that you are randomly attacking this problem and that is not the way to go at it. Start at the spark plugs and work backwards towards the Bosch amplifier. Forget about mickey mouse tests like checking for sparks in the dark :) Use your ohm meter to check continuity in all spark plug wires and especially the wire between the coil and the cap. Then check for the strength and frequency of the sparks as they exist the coil by connecting a spark plug to the wire from the coil to the cap. Do this and then report back.
    I built a spark plug with a wire and an alligator clip to make sure the plug is properly grounded while doing this type of test.

    Ivan

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  17. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula 3

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    Thanks Ivan,
    The Coil was the last thing to bench test, having taken a 'component' approach to this with the CDI, Green Wire, Distributor Cap and Rotor. Although I will test the replacement Coil in the car, I won't expect much difference and after that I will turn to the 'continuity' approach and see what is revealed.
    Cheers,
    - Art
     
  18. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula 3

    Jul 15, 2012
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    COIL FAILURE.

    Purrs like a kitten.

    End of story.

    :)
    - Art
     
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  19. boralogist

    boralogist Formula Junior

    Jun 21, 2005
    998
    :):):)
     
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  20. Mexico074

    Mexico074 Formula 3

    Aug 14, 2008
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    Good to hear Art !!!!

    Mike
     
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