1964 Porsche 356C metal work restoration | FerrariChat

1964 Porsche 356C metal work restoration

Discussion in 'Porsche' started by The Metal Surgeon, Nov 20, 2011.

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  1. The Metal Surgeon

    Oct 16, 2011
    55
    #1 The Metal Surgeon, Nov 20, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    This series of posts will follow the complete metal work restoration of a very cool 1964 Porsche 356C. This Porsche 356 had sat in a barn in the Colorado ski resort town of Winter Park, and hadn't been driven for some 20 years.
    The first pictures show the car in the dismantling stage through to post media blasting revealing what was hidden under the paint work.
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  2. SoCal1

    SoCal1 F1 Veteran
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    Jun 14, 2011
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    SoCal LA/OC/New Mexico
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    Tim Dee
    Very cool car. Looks like you have some work ahead of you with the "pre 70s" bodywork there.
    She will be a beauty when done treat her well


    :)
     
  3. Bullfighter

    Bullfighter Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jan 26, 2005
    22,572
    Gates Mills, Ohio
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    Jon
    Was gonna say... it's like an archaeological dig.

    But C cabs are hot right now, so well worth doing right.
     
  4. The Metal Surgeon

    Oct 16, 2011
    55
    #5 The Metal Surgeon, Nov 23, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    As you can see from the first picture the transition angle from the door to fender is over 180 degrees,this probably resulting from a previous accident.
    The following pictures show a new section grafted in and metal finished.The door was also fixed by shrinking the crown.
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  5. barchetta

    barchetta Formula Junior

    Nov 5, 2003
    893
    What is involved with metal finishing? In other words, once you cut out the rusted metal and weld in a patch, how do you make the fender look like it is one continuous piece of metal (i.e., like a brand new fender)?
     
  6. Michael B

    Michael B F1 Rookie
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    Apr 28, 2004
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    Michael
    Practice - Practice - Practice.
     
  7. barchetta

    barchetta Formula Junior

    Nov 5, 2003
    893
    Okay, but what techniques, procedures, etc. are used during metal finishing?
     
  8. Bullfighter

    Bullfighter Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jan 26, 2005
    22,572
    Gates Mills, Ohio
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    Jon
    I'm not a metal worker, but having a 356 Speedster restored now.

    There's a very worthwhile article in the 356 Club magazine this month written by Mark Fuhrman, if you can get your hands on that. Credit to Mark (and the guys at California Porsche Restoration) for my education on this.

    Some of the techniques, after butt-welding panels as needed and getting smooth welds:

    Panel straightening -- first there's metal shaping, which is literally tapping and sometimes pounding the metal to flatten out the high spots or "brows". The better your metal guy is at this, the less filler is needed later. They can literally feel the highs and lows with their bare palm. The "easy" way is to trowel on loads of filler -- see the 275 GTB restoration thread on FChat in the Vintage section. My Speedster had that where it was race-bumped in the rear quarter panel, and Mark McCracken's 275 GTB had rhinoplasty done the same way.

    Originally, the Reutter, D'Iteren or Karmann workers used lead to get smooth surfaces, but the modern substitute would be Bondo or similar. There's an argument that lead is more authentic, but also that technology has given us better materials. (The guys doing mine are trained in using lead, so we did that.)

    After filler comes "glazing", which is supposed to be easier to sand, so you can get a near perfect surface.

    Then you move on to primer, although there are several blocking/sanding steps in between. It's an iterative process, but an experienced Porsche bodyman should be able to minimize the amount of filler used, detect and fill the low spots and smooth the high spots, etc., with less iteration than we mortals would need.

    Then it is sprayed with sealer, which you do not sand. Obviously this must be done uniformly, because it's the base for paint.

    After that, you have to decide on single stage (as original) or two-stage with clear coat paint. Again, there are arguments either way, but the single stage requires color sanding afterward to get real lustre out of it. I doubt any modern cars use single stage, so you need someone who knows what he's doing when color sanding -- very easy to screw things up expensively.
     
  9. Michael B

    Michael B F1 Rookie
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    Apr 28, 2004
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    I actually was trained to work with metal many years ago. My history includes several historic cars as well as muscle cars and vintage Porsche's. I have done substantial metal work that is very simular to what you see in the photos. When I state "practice-practice-practice" I dont say it lightheartedly.

    Now I do this stuff for fun (just did some today in fact) and leave the difficult jobs up to the professionals - like what we see above.

    As for metal work - Start with proper gauge metal, shape it with an English Wheel and a sheet metal break (I have that) or "do it old school" with a hammer & dolly. Masterfully weld the piece into place with minimum warpage & a ton of patience. Hand tool the panel after welding if needed then FILE (yes file) the metal/welds down by hand or a deft touch with the right air tool. Continue to file and fill with weld when needed. Work that spot to the bitter end or opt out of the hard stuff and apply lead for final touches. The lead may not be necessary - if you have that practice that I spoke about.

    It looks to me like the fellow that did the work above has that practice I refer to.

    Bravo to his or her craftsmanship.
     
  10. docf

    docf Formula 3

    Sep 14, 2008
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    Florida
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    Gary
    Brings back memories as I just completed a 7 yr. restoration of my 2 owner 1965 356 C. I purchased it in 1999 from the second owner in Fl. Mine took so long as I lived in Co. and restoration took place in Fl. It was finally completed months ago when we moved back to Fl. Car is Silver, with red Leather and red carpets.

    Docf
     
  11. PSk

    PSk F1 World Champ

    Nov 20, 2002
    17,673
    Tauranga, NZ
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    Pete
    Subscribed.

    Pete
     
  12. The Metal Surgeon

    Oct 16, 2011
    55
    ok here's the process.

    .the 2 sections of the panel is butt welded leaving a hairs gap prior to welding to allowing for shrinking.If you dont leave a gap you will end with a peak.

    weld in 25-35mm lengths immediately cooling.

    grind off the top of the weld with a 1/4" think 'cut off' wheel.

    planish the weld with a hammer and dolly

    Begin to file exposing 'highs' and 'lows' and with feeling by hand

    using a spoon or slapper and hand weight/dolly pick up lows.

    re file

    repeat spoon/dolly process

    you have to understand the shape you want to obtain and not over stretch the material.

    as you file and planish your weld line will disappear.As stated above this process is only
    successful if you maintain correct shape.

    hope this helps,easier showing a practical explanation.Maybe i should post a u tube video.

    other posts to this 356 metal rebuild can be found on www.themetalsurgeon.com
     

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