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18775

Discussion in '365 GT4 2+2/400/412' started by GreggG, Jul 25, 2014.

  1. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    Dec 26, 2001
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    #76 Newman, Mar 12, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
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  3. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    If the grill dimensions are the same with the exception of mount pins vs screws how hard would it to have a second program that mills the end slots with a step so us 400 owners can drill mount holes?
     
  4. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff F1 Rookie
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    Good day Gary,

    Thanks for the pictures! Indeed, the mounting holes are a lot different than what I was expecting... I thought that they were in the corners, as opposed to the "step" that Paul mentioned.

    Cheers,

    Sam
     
  5. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff F1 Rookie
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    Good day Paul,

    Thanks for the pics! My 365 grill is 150 mm square (about 5.9")... The dimensions are close, but the 400 series would appear to be not square... Or maybe they were and grill distorted over time?

    Cheers,

    Sam
     
  6. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff F1 Rookie
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    Good day Paul,

    It is possible, but one would need to confirm the dimensions, as my 365 is quite square... However, I will check again in case they were distorted because of the heat warping, etc.

    Cheers,

    Sam
     
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  8. Arvid

    Arvid Formula Junior
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    I'm not so ceratin about my speaker grills after seeing the pictures from Gary and Newman. I think mine looks like that withh the screw inside the recess. The holes in each corner is maybe just a "thing" on the drawings ?
     
  9. theobordeaux

    theobordeaux Formula Junior

    Jan 13, 2011
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    Hello Sam, the speaker grills was made from a scanned file? If so can you pass this file?

    Theodore
     
  10. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff F1 Rookie
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    Good day Theodore,

    Nothing was scanned. I do have access to a 3-D scanner, but find that I can CAD up most simple designs faster with less touch-ups. Consequently, I designed the speaker grill using CAD. My machinist took my CAD design and then ported it to Solidworks to create a 3-D model. From here he will migrate the Solidworks file to what is needed by the Milling machine. I could create a 3-D print of the grill, but the quality of the 3-D printers I have access to are just "ok"... I much prefer milled metal, as it will by much more durable and can be finished to whatever someone would want... powder coated, anodized, painted, even plated if one wanted.

    Cheers,

    Sam
     
  11. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff F1 Rookie
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    Good day All,

    I have not posted in this thread for a while and so I thought I would update it...

    Over the past year I have had little time to work on 18775 and so not much has been done... other than finding a few bits here and there that I was looking for (e.g. new side moldings, door ajar light, etc). However, I was planning my strategy on the car and ultimately decided to:

    a. Re-paint the car to a nice Driver's quality
    I plan on driving the car as a daily driver and so fully restoring and having a show quality repaint seemed pointless. The current paint is OK and I could live with it, but it really needed some refreshing... so a repaint was decided.

    b. The interior was knackered. The hot desert climates took their tool on the leather and the dash and so these simply needed to be redone... and has been. I splurged for new leather (same color, etc as the original) and dash material from Henk (HVL).

    c. The suspension rubbers are old and cracked and so I will be replacing these... along with replating and replacing the various suspension pieces, etc

    d. The exhaust is also knackered. The exhaust manifolds are solid, but need some refreshment. I will be ceramic coating these like I did on my Boxer. I am unsure about the exhaust and may take a whack at making my own than look close to OEM. I was able to find some NOS Ansa tips and so I will see how this goes. The worst case is that I can buy a set from TimeValve, etc.

    e. Engine Bay... I thought long about this and I will be removing the engine in order to do a proper detail (paint and replate) andd refreshment. Gleggy and Paul both highly advised me to replace the sodium valves and so I will heed their advice and replace the sodium valves as well as an upper end refresh as needed. One has to remember that 18775's engine has only 15000 KMs and so it "should" not need too much... well... here's hoping.

    Overall I will be doing a bit of a restore and refreshment with the goal to make the car into a really nice driver.

    Cheers,

    Sam
     
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  13. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff F1 Rookie
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    #85 samsaprunoff, Mar 2, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Good day All,

    As I mentioned in my previous post... I will be repainting the car. This was a lot more work than I realized. The reason being is that where I am located it is extremely, extremely difficult to find autobody shops willing to work on any older cars. If you can find shops willing to do the work they charge anywhere from 2x to 4x the cost of getting paintwork done in other parts of the Country. Why this is, is because the Insurance companies have negotiated with the Autobody industry to have fixed costs for repairs. Thus shops that work and repair newer cars become very efficient working on them and so they actually get paid more $$$ via fixed cost than if they were to charge per hour. The result is that they can turn cars out very rapidly which also makes them more $$$. So the shops prefer not work on older or specialty cars unless they charge an absolute premium. Even getting a quote from these shops is a challenge and takes numerous calls, e-mails, etc. It was an eye opener for me.

    That being said I finally found a shop and owner that I got along really well with and 18775 went there the other day. Attached are few pics as how the car was delivered. I stripped the car down as far as I could go. I elected to keep the glass in with its trim, as I did not wish to risk breaking the glass or damaging the trim (NLA)... Thankfully there is no rust on the car and so it will be a relatively straightforward repaint. The color will be the same factory color (blu tourbillon) with painting of the inside of the doors, jambs, trunk (boot), and hood (bonnet). I also decided to body color paint the rear tailight panel. If I do not like the body color tailight panel I can always black this area out at a later time.

    Ideally I would have pulled the engine, etc first... however, given the effort to find an autobody shop I did not want to miss my time opportunity that they had.

    Anyway, I will post more pics once the car gets back from the shop... which should be in 2-3 weeks.

    Cheers,

    Sam
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  14. bjwhite

    bjwhite F1 Rookie

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    Love that blue! good luck Sam!
     
  15. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff F1 Rookie
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    Good day Brian,

    Indeed, I also think the darker blues look great on this series!

    As for luck... Indeed, I will need it... and some time... and some extra $$$ ... and some perseverance :)

    Cheers,

    Sam
     

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