WHAT is that ? It looks like u returned it from the titanic. On a second matter I still have the alfa jnr zagato 1600 rear bumper and front bumper for u. How do I ship them over ? Snowy
It is the fuel filler assembly from the Titanic (aka dino 01104). I will ask Ron at Superformance, if he might help as he has the least expensive overseas shipping service from the UK. Junior Z's nose has to come off one of these days to reshape it, as it has had a 'past'. Thank you for your most kind offer. Best, Alberto Image Unavailable, Please Login
Not zinc primed yet, and here it is 95% humidity, much worse than at Scaglietti. Thank you for the heads up. Regards, Alberto
The underside of the nose, passenger side. The English wheel is the absolute best tool. Regards, Alberto Image Unavailable, Please Login
Beautiful work Alberto. The English wheel is an incredible tool in the hands of the talented, which you guys obviously are.
Priorities, thus 03724 Restoration has started. Nose had to come off to have proper access. Stay tuned... Regards, Alberto Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks for posting Alberto, it should be an interesting journey. Best wishes, I will follow the story with great enthusiasm.
For those who missed the start in 2011: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/206-246/338426-03724-restoration-starts.html
You are quite right, that was the first installment, and it only was one year long, then my life got upside down with my real work. In between, finished an e-type for my friend which took 3 years (a painful car if I ever saw one), an Alfa Duetto, Alfa GTV, that were half way there already, a BMW 2002 project. Moved my kids about three times, and the "L" series is still lingering, although the bumpers are finished, just chrome is missing and have to return the two that were kindly lent to me by a very generous friend, that were used as templates. I am certain the giallo fly has had enough time to harden 03724 has taken priority as the bodywork is going to be fairly quick and painless. Just snip and stitch back. Get rid of the rust -( . Then paint. A quickie. If I remember correctly, all the sections that open, had been done in the previous chapter, except, this puppy is going back to full USA spec and original silver paint and black interior. My guess, I have sold out to the establishment... Regards, Alberto I am out of town and will post as I receive photos of progress. Thank you all for the renovarted encouragement.
Thanx to Rob L.'s wizardry, the two threads have been merged. Now we are on a continuous loop Regards, Alberto
And thank you to take time for posting photos. We love watching those Dino restorations. Always something to learn.
Moving right along, the blasting is coming along well, and the most noticeable parts with rust are being cleaned then protected. Monday, will receive an initial light coat of paint just to keep things nice and clean. We opted for the black paint for the chassis, which was in a surprisingly good condition, to be applied at the very end to keep everything more visible. There is some corrosion on the central tube, was considering brazing along the imperfections, but not quite certain if it might be best to cut out the section and reshape a section, then splice it in. Not being a metallurgic expert, I ignore which, or other of the above, might be a better procedure. The suspension characteristics of the chassis might be altered? Please do speak up, I would be most grateful, and still in time not to commit errors. Here are some more photos... Regards, Alberto Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
...and as fiberglassing repair is all done on 03724, we made a few valve cover replicas. Regards, Alberto Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
If not completely corroded through the material, you can fill in the "missing" steel with a mig welder instead of changing out the entire tube. Make a "rod" tool to insert a tube profiled copper backing plate into the tube to take the head from the backside of the pipe to avoid burning through. Ensure not to apply so much heat that the pipe starts to bend (Be patient and let it cool off often). Measure the geometry accurately before you start and / or install fixation brackets as deemed necessary. You can to some extend straighten the chassis tubes using heat, but that takes some experience and it is preferable to have a gig. By using this method, you will still have the original central tubing in the correct dimension. I have spent days trying to source oval tubing in the correct size with no success. I have never heard of anyone having found it either. Good luck Peter
Not being a smarta$$ but a decent race car fabricator could make oval tubing from round, a guy did it for me years ago on a Daytona with perfect results.
