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#03724 Restoration starts

Discussion in '206/246' started by swift53, Sep 21, 2011.

  1. swift53

    swift53 F1 Rookie
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    Thanks Tony!
    By the way, I am in the USA (thankfully) and received your lovely box.

    Regards, Alberto
     
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  3. swift53

    swift53 F1 Rookie
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    Not to risk major mis-alignment issues after paint is applied, we mounted all suspension without any shims.
    It all checks out and well worth the time, as after the fact, no surprises considering we repaired a few quirks.

    Really satisfied, and on we go.

    Regards, Alberto


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  4. swift53

    swift53 F1 Rookie
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    Still cannot get a 'not even close' paint sample. Patience, patience :)
     
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  5. swift53

    swift53 F1 Rookie
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    Update flash!
    Mostly photos that show the progress. Hope you enjoy...:) I am...

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    Most of the interior panels are back on, next, the sealing strips

    Made a new fibreglass bottom as original was missing as well as the front panel.

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    I am curious what panel is attached to the four threaded posts:

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    Regards, Alberto
     
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  6. sp1der

    sp1der Formula 3
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    Amazing job
     
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  8. swift53

    swift53 F1 Rookie
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    Some more...and some poor photography, but the phone was ill :)

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    No powder coating, as there is none to be had, and striving for originality.
    Lots of sandblasting with great sand from the river, rebuilt the squirrel cages as lots of rust
    as there was everywhere else of course. Disc brakes, BBQ black, to keep from rusting, not that it is going
    to matter much anyhow.The forks are black, as no plating yet. Points will be deleted, oh well...

    All fibreglass was repaired in the style of the factory, with only a few improvements
    as installing a few strategically placed rare earth magnets, that with time will collect all the old rivet material left in the chassis tubes, that after a few twirls of the rotisserie, can barely be heard anymore.

    Insulation between engine bay (nook) and cabin, is the original, same solid whatever, probably full of asbestos.

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    Only change, is useage of HVAC ally foil on the perimeters as not to touch the tubes directly.

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    Splash guards, made a bit better with slightly larger fastening plates and stainless steel

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    Naked chassis, before bottom cover, still pondering if insulating fibreglass ought be installed, as Dynamat will,
    not certain if on this side, or at the interior. Ideas?

    Also, some better insulation of the gaps, in order to keep a few air drafts from removing bottom
    at speeds of recklessness. Yes, we can still do that here.

    Broke down, and succumbed to the ugly jack holes.
    One tradeoff for the USA - option deleted, side indicators and turn signals upfront.

    Regards, Alberto
     
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  9. Jon Hansen

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    Do the 2 bottom splash shields overlap, or butt flush? If they overlap, I would recommend the smaller square shield overlap, like a shingle, on top of the larger rear shield. That way there is less chance of air getting under the large shield at reckless speeds...
    Looks nice Alberto!
     
  10. pshoejberg

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    #283 pshoejberg, Feb 22, 2021
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2021
    It's looking really good Alberto! I opted for a sound dampening, water repellent foam in-between the bottom construction. No visible silver liner or similar on the topside only a 1 mm thick asphalt plate as original (On the L-series at least). Ensure some heat insulation around the center pipe to minimize heat transfer from the cooling lines. Use high quality rivets on the bottom plate and ensure all the holes hit the under laying pipe (Tony had problems with that back in the factory!) and consider to use a slight amount of flexible glue on the
    front end of the plate and you will never loose it.

    Best, Peter

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  11. dgt

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    Alberto,
    I used closed cell foam under the floor like Peter and sealed the edges of the big under tray with a slather of black silicone (especially at the front) which will also help hold it in place.
    Try to prevent the leaking air from blowing hot air into the cabin as it runs past the hot centre tube and up the accelerator, gearshift and handbrake holes.
    On insulating the centre tube, I wrapped it in a dynamat type material but after running for more than an hour *everything* is just hot. It's just slowing down the heating process for a short trip.
    cheers, Andrew
     
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  13. swift53

    swift53 F1 Rookie
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    Thank you guys, really appreciate...will look at all the local options, as fed up with importing stuff
    besides so many years have gone by, resources are starting to show up.
    Meanwhile, we replaced the rubber diaphragms on the ventilation (!!!!) system.
    They each had 10 welds each, crazy.

    Regards, Alberto

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  14. swift53

    swift53 F1 Rookie
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  15. swift53

    swift53 F1 Rookie
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    Remade the really ugly parts, but puzzled at the fit. It would appear lots of air leaks.
    Any idea what was riveted to the plate that shows a distinct square? It is also shown in the previous post.
    What about the large hole(s)?

    Regards, Alberto

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  16. TTR

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    Alberto, unless your Dino has adjustable/bolt-on door hinges or you already took following into account, I'd recommend making sure doors are "fully loaded" before/during final alignments and maybe even during final body blocking to prevent any unexpected "surprises" after its painted.
    For example, Daytona doors with welded-on (=non-adjustable) hinges carry 70+ lbs of removable items each and removing/adding that much weight during repairs/repaint does make a difference on their alignment.
     
  17. swift53

    swift53 F1 Rookie
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    Timo, that is a brilliant thought, we'll try the doors on and put some lead weights inside to mimic
    the finished item, although nowhere as heavy as the Daytona.
    We installed the doors previously to lead the gaps, but without weight. Time to go back...:)

    Before paint, all openings will be refitted, as well as the suspension, that way we can paint the black bottom on the rotisserie,
    then just do the Earl Scheib bit on wheels, without the famous overspray...

    Regards, Alberto
     
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  18. TTR

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    #290 TTR, Mar 6, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2021
    I assume you have considered easier approaches to achieve more authentic and better results ?
     
  19. swift53

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    #291 swift53, Mar 6, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2021
    As perhaps brushing the black paint on, instead of spraying? ;)

    The only allowance to modernism, might be blue tape instead of
    Italian tape, Tesafilm. Still exist today..
    I remember we used it in my dad's business a long time ago, my favorite
    being their version of 'scotch tape'. Oh well, memories...
     
  20. TTR

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    Well, not what I had in mind, but will take it as an answer.
    I was just wondering about your intended order of procedures and complications they present in my mind.

    I’ve seen countless repaints on vintage cars of all makes/models performed in similar fashion, including by so-called professional painters/shops, but never quite understood why, especially on restorations done to extent like yours.

    OTOH, if an attempt is to create results far exceeding “factory” quality (i.e far from “perfection”), I’ve also never understood why anyone would paint door jambs, engine bay or trunk, etc before the exterior.
     
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  21. swift53

    swift53 F1 Rookie
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    Timo,
    As the chassis (done) and bottom will be painted black, the remainder of the body will be fitted
    with as much of the add-ons as possible, as the rotisserie is a truly great piece of kit. Then, drop it
    to the floor, mount the suspension, and wheels.
    The car will be then rolled to our funky paint cabin, and the openings masked.

    We are painting as much as possible the 'normal factory way' which, what that means, I really ignore,
    but, we are definitely going to tape all the openings, then paint the whole car in one shot.

    We did that with the previous one, and albeit it was a 10 hour marathon, it resulted in a very nicely executed
    paint application. There is tons of masking on Dino, as I assume on a Daytona, as chassis, body and doors,
    hoods and trunk lids are done at the same time.

    The black, 'float-line' application, as Matthias can attest, was applied by brush originally,
    possibly, we may be some of the few to do so.

    Just in case, might do a try out on brush quality, as some leave a lot of hairs behind, hairy Dino?
    Probably will have to succumb to 'Amazon'...
    Really appreciate your observation, as my restorations are fairly 'close' to original build standards
    maybe except for the two pack Argento.

    Thank you for the great contributions and comments, please add all you want, as I am well aware of your 'standards' :)

    Regards, Alberto
     
  22. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

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    Great work, keep it coming!
    Surprised you were able to remove the front spare-tire fiberglas section without cutting it. That must have been tough

    The emissions evaporative white plastic valve
     
  23. swift53

    swift53 F1 Rookie
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    Thank you Scott,
    Evidently was not there, do not even know what it looks like...
    Regards, Alberto
     
  24. swift53

    swift53 F1 Rookie
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    Thank you on this one...


    I think we did take the spare tire, etc. out in one piece :) We'll see if it is willing to go back in...
    The emission valve must be there somewhere...in a box, shelf, etc.

    Today called the roofing company, very very high tech, they sell rigid waterproof insulation, any thickness,
    from 1/2" to 4". One less headache.

    Regards, Alberto
     
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  25. swift53

    swift53 F1 Rookie
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    Following 'master' advice, we weighed the doors down with 30 lbs of sand at the very rear of the door
    and sure enough, door readjusting was in order. Port-a-power to the rescue! Perfect fit now. Gaps are as before.

    Weighed the glass, and the few other sundry parts that belong to the door, and got to this weight + /-

    Timo, brilliant :)

    Thank you!

    Regards, Alberto

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  26. TTR

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    While it may not change the outcome much, if at all, only thing I would try to distribute the required ballast weight evenly through the entire length of the door.
    To achieve this, I usually use heavy link chain(s) or other +/- 2 ft. long heavy, but "skinny" items, like solid metal bars/rods/etc or thick wall tubing.

    I also found my notes on Daytona door weights, both empty shell and "loaded".
    Apparently my memory was quite a bit off.
    Empty door: +/-25 lbs
    Fully loaded: +/- 50 lbs

    My comments to painting/refinishing the coachwork in "correct order" refers to the fact that ALL "black outs" were likely originally (at least on Daytonas) and, for the ease of it + better & more authentic results, IMO, should be done AFTER the exterior color is shot, but OTOH every painter has his/her personal preferences.
     
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  27. daviekj

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  28. TTR

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    Alberto, while I appreciate your kind “reference”, I do feel more like a grasshopper continuously trying to learn more.

    If anything, while I may have little more (hands-on/personal) experience and knowledge than some about vintage car restoration , I also understand I have far less of both than many others in this “field”, not to mention different views about approach and perceptions of authenticity, etc.

    The day I feel I’ve learned or know enough is day I need to quit all this or whatever ever the subject and just because someone else prefers to do something differently than I, it doesn’t mean either of us is doing it right or wrong. ;)
     

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