engine out brake line question

Spray wd40, break free etc then put some heat on it. The wd40 will catch fire that’s ok. Then remove heat flame goes out spray more wd40 on hot fitting it will suck the wd into the threads. Heat once more let it get pretty hot say flame for a minute the wd will catch fire and burn off. Then turn off flame spray wd and put a wrench to it. That should do it. I can talk you through on FaceTime if you need.

 

Keep the fitting on the reservoir side of the block so juice does not leak out.

 

This is what I do
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I should expand. I only remove the two on the right and unbolt the junction block from the frame and plug up the holes so they don't leak out. I made up a few plugs that fit the holes years ago. I am fairly sure you can find some plastic plugs to fit.

 

I'll just add that if you are doing a engine out you should probably do a brake fluid flush (brakes and clutch) as well when you put it back together.

 

I've found these a right pain in the past also. Plenty of suggestions above, but stick at it. they're a sodding PITA.

 

bad move! Now you will need to remove the master to bench bleed to prime it. Be very careful because old master never been fully stroked because of how system pressurizes when step on pedal. So crud develops below yhat point and full stroke during bleed cuts seals as they go over crud. Then congrats you get to take it all out and get the master rebuilt. Give me a call if you want more details or if you don'tknow this. This can be saved just gotta watch a couple things. Same with clutch slave.

 

Pete,

Do you have ATE ABS or Bosch ABS? Or take a picture of the engine standing from the rear and I'll tell you.

 

If air got in below master orifice you are done. All you can do it complete major put motor back in add fluid and bleed. If bleed does not work you will need to remove master and bench bleed. Someti.es you can bleed master in situ but with more physical effort. It is easy enough to just take it out.

 

I never resort to vise grips. Maybe we could try this over zoom skype (thought skype was going away) or FaceTime and I can coach you through it? I'm up skiing so good after 4pm

 

1. Cut the line, get a socket on the nut, remove it.
2. Remove the line, bring it to a hydraulic shop and ask them to make you a new one with all the bends in it. Less than $100, takes one day. My place does it while I wait.
3. In a pinch, the aluminum block can be replaced.

 

Hill sells the block for $50, fyi

https://www.hillengineering.co.uk/brake-related/others-2/139375

 

If 3 of the lines are disconnected, could you undo that locking nut to release the block from the cradle and allow you to get some vice grips round the stuck union then use the actual block itself to unwind it out of the union???

NB If I find that vice grips are not gripping then I adjust them to be too small, apply them to the nut/bolt whatever then whilst trying to lock them shut with all my might I gently adjust them to they snap shut.

Alternatively, you could file 2 flats on the union to assist with gripping it.

 

Is it worth annually spraying this AL block and its brake pipe connects with WD 40 or what ever your preference penetrating fluid ? So when it’s deemed time to undo stuff your hassle factor vanishes ?

 

No -- that won't do anything. The way to do it is install the lines with a tiny bit of anti-seize on the threads and DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. All these fittings (including caliper bleeder valves) need to be is lightly snug. They're not rod bolts.

 

Bummer...more work.