488 Those that use the Ctek Chargers please respond.

I’d start with checking all the connections. Maybe shoot some contact cleaner into the plug

 

Wish I could give good advice. I've got six cars on CTEK 7002 tenders. As you mentioned,
STEP 1 DESULPHATION
Detects sulphated batteries. Pulsing current and voltage, removes sulphate from the lead plates of the battery restoring the battery capacity.
STEP 2 SOFT START
Tests if the battery can accept charge. This step prevents that charging proceeds with a defect battery.
STEP 3 BULK
Charging with maximum current until approximately 80% battery capacity.
STEP 4 ABSORPTION
Charging with declining current to maximize up to 100% battery capacity.
STEP 5 ANALYSE
Tests if the battery can hold charge. Batteries that can not hold charge may need to be replaced.
STEP 6 RECOND
Choose the Recond program to add the Recond step to the charging process. During the Recond step voltage increases to create controlled gassing in the battery. Gasing mixes the battery acid and gives back energy to the battery.
STEP 7 FLOAT
Maintaining the battery voltage at maximum level by providing a constant voltage charge.
STEP 8 PULSE
Maintaining the battery at 95–100% capacity. The charger monitors the battery voltage and gives a pulse when necessary to keep the battery fully charged

I've had my CTEKs fail at step 5, telling me my batteries could no longer hold a charge (both times accurately). I've never seen or read about failing DESULPHATION. I'd give it more time and see what happens. Probably try disconnect / reconnect at some point just because (although it sounds like you already did when testing on another car). I'm very interested to hear updates.

If you have the alligator clips, maybe try connecting directly to the battery, skipping the built in tender port.

 

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Apologies for the basic response but did you clean the car side of the connector?


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I’ve had the 5.0 CTEK for 5 years and recently it wasn’t advancing like you described. I tossed it and bought a few 7002’s. Great so far.


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I don’t recall. Just followed the advice of others on the forum.


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Was the car off the tender for a while / had you recently driven the car a short distance?

Im not familiar with the 5.0 model but the 7002 probably can output a little more amps and likely a little better with brown outs and power surges.

Ive taken to using small battery UPS for my tenders- this way brown outs/ surges are not an issue.


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Overpriced and over rated, .mine left me with a flat battery a few times- too sensitive and shut down for no reason. Tossed mine and now have a cheap standard charger, never let me down

 

This is normal. The manual describes how it make take up to 8hrs to get past stage 1.

https://www.ctek.com/storage/5F698282EF11914E368ECD2BA726D2FC8F329CA0DA934C5E86A538F9AC089C23/00000000000000000000000000014050/pdf/media/b92f3bd538ed40b1bc345ee44e44d4fa/MXS_5.0-manual-low-UK-EN.pdf

 

Correct. I just wanted to point out that your CTEK is fine and not malfunctioning as others have suggested.

 

Guys.

Install a battery isolator switch in the trunk and forget about battery issues.

4 years now on a anti gravity lithium unit and I just connected to the dedicated Ctek lithium tender once to double check it was fine.

Whenever I plan to left the car unused for more than 3 days, I kill it and peace of mind.

Ferrari used to fit these switches but they got rid of it for unknown -to me- reasons. Maybe they prefer to sell OEM batteries at top dollar at agencies.

 

All these trickle chargers are fine to a point, but they don’t give the battery a good hard charge now and again. I have mine on a timer so it only cuts in every few days for enough hours to fully charge it from a part discharged state. UK cars are all fitted with trackers so have a constant discharge. Seems to work well.