Engine bay side finishers - thick paint and terribly deformed... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login during the process Image Unavailable, Please Login same here - black anodised alloy stampings - very nice parts actually Image Unavailable, Please Login .... but really deformed from people's elbows and hands... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
so... I did some panel beating and straightened them out: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Happy with the result: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login But the surfaces, in this case visible unlike the wheelarches, needed re-anodising Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login ... and yes, I did see it and turn round the labels
Interior Door Handles before and after Image Unavailable, Please Login missing rubber support on one side - originally missing? Image Unavailable, Please Login disassembly and clean-up driver side Image Unavailable, Please Login reassembly - with the missing rubber gasket nla I addes rubber spacers in the mounting area to re-create the correct assembly height: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login disassembly and clean-up pax side Image Unavailable, Please Login reassembled: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login done, including repainted handle surfaces and polished chrome surround Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
External Door Handles Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login first step is removal of the painted layers as they were damaged Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login painting prep Image Unavailable, Please Login painted! Image Unavailable, Please Login All parts cleaned and ready for re-assembly Image Unavailable, Please Login Done: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Door locks Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Cleaned Image Unavailable, Please Login Handbrake Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login cleaned Image Unavailable, Please Login re-threading Image Unavailable, Please Login trimming for the actual operating radius Image Unavailable, Please Login Done Image Unavailable, Please Login
Rear View Mirrors Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Some paint does come off - other areas don't budge: Image Unavailable, Please Login The driver's side front mounting thread was half broken - I decided to thread through and fill the outside hole later. I made a pilot hole bolt to drill the core hole and fabricated a new, longer bolt: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Finally, repainted Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login new door gaskets, window channels Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Some NLA were fixed by combining old and new sections: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
2 complete upper secondary door gaskets: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Door wiring looked worrying Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login pax side Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login sheaves removed and wires cleaned - looks ok again Image Unavailable, Please Login re-taped and ready with new rubber bellow and separate power wire for window accelerator integrated (the long blue-plugged black wire) Image Unavailable, Please Login
driver's side door loom restoration - looking bad before Image Unavailable, Please Login sheaves removed - hard and potentially dangerous work as some of them are rock hard, very tight around the wiring and brittle - it's easy to cut your hands or slip with your scissors/knife... Image Unavailable, Please Login cleaned Image Unavailable, Please Login retaped and ready Image Unavailable, Please Login Tape used to refinish the looms: Image Unavailable, Please Login It's advisable to use a small cable tie where the wires exit the tape.
Column stalks normally functional but cracked: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login wiring has some issues too: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Packed and shipped out to Verell: Image Unavailable, Please Login All repaired and ready to be refitted Image Unavailable, Please Login But - the ground wire for the horn switch is too short: Image Unavailable, Please Login Lengthened so it doesn't rub on the column Image Unavailable, Please Login
Unrestored column VIN plate Image Unavailable, Please Login Cleaned Image Unavailable, Please Login repainted lettering Image Unavailable, Please Login Cleaned up Image Unavailable, Please Login
Auto-lock alternator adjustment nut - yes, you can change the belts alone: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Window motors... looks like it needs attention: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login repaired Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login New cables: Image Unavailable, Please Login Final lengths needed - note "special tool"? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login here the cable passage just in case someone is crazy enough to remove the mess: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Horn story - never worked reliably and sounded funny... finally down to 1) kinked hose 2) inop low frequency horn 3) intermittent button. One plastic cap was missing too, so we reproduced using the original one: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login strip-down Image Unavailable, Please Login masked and primed Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login paint Image Unavailable, Please Login new stuff Image Unavailable, Please Login Compressor tear-down, clean up and repaint Image Unavailable, Please Login label reproduced by myself Image Unavailable, Please Login sealant Image Unavailable, Please Login
The Engine/Gearbox needed attention. Among the items were a leaking clutch slave, noisy front cover cam belt bearings, valve clearance check, new diff exit bearing, lots of new gaskets and seals, and an interesting discovery: A missing roller on the gearbox input shaft bearing. See image later. A major service with some additional repairs. Lots of parts required: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
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engine out: Image Unavailable, Please Login gearbox removed Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login oil pan Image Unavailable, Please Login transfer box and front cover Image Unavailable, Please Login Missing roller in the main input shaft bearing... can't fall out when mounted, so probably missing from new as their is no indication the gearbox has eve been rebuilt. Image Unavailable, Please Login very important small gasket: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login diff output shaft bearings Image Unavailable, Please Login new water pump of course Image Unavailable, Please Login
Engine/Gearbox being re-assembled Image Unavailable, Please Login big day Image Unavailable, Please Login
This information is extremely valuable. I wish someone could snip parts of this post and add them to other posts to make them more robust. Example: The door window lift information you just shared should go into the existing post. I wish you had a Cabriolet as I’d love to see your documentation on the rear windows. I am in awe of what you are doing!
Now the bad news... improper storage of the interior during the body repair turned it into mouldy mess beyond reasonable recovery... so the decision was made to retrim all leather and vinyl parts. I spare you the images. I found a local company run by a superbly competent gentleman and decided to go ahead with the retrim after we agreed that the only way to do it was "original" = material, colors, textures, all stitching identical to original. So I stripped everything to individual parts and delivered them: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login We ordered leather in Italy with the correct color - on the right the original color sample, in the middle the vinyl chosen and on the right the new custom color leather: Image Unavailable, Please Login The original color carpet was sourced as well: Image Unavailable, Please Login and off-white (1000) thread color selected for the dark grey vinyl stitching: Image Unavailable, Please Login Everything was stripped and luckily, the foams have survived in very sound condition: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login The rubber bands supporting the front set cushions were all broken and got replaced: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
