TR Fuel Cells

You can just empty the fuel out ..inspect with borescope and put clean new fuel in with a can of bg44
New Fuel filters ,...you should be set

 

as dominik writes I agree, and if there is inside some debris you may use a high pressure hot weater cleaner and when finish let the tanks dry in the sun.

 

Do not use aggressive detergents. A little dish soap and hot water will work fine.

 

Be aware that the AC System runs through the passenger's side fuel tank, so to remove the tank you will need to capture the AC Charge and disconnect the fittings. There is a heat exchanger in there.

 

He'd be better off just leaving it in place.

 

It is cool that RD and me say the same thing ..post #2

 

Actually re-read that .. RD may have suggested cleaning them in place whereas I just said drain in place, inspect and fill with free fuel and BG44 to clean any minor vanish and clean injectors - -so different suggestions - sorry

 

Is the AC dumping heat INTO the tank, or is it removing heat from the tank?

Is this an unusual design or commonly done?

 

good questions, also like to know

 

The way to tell would be to determine if the AC hose going to the heat exchanger in the gas tank is connected to the discharge port on the AC compressor (fuel cools the hot compressed refrigerant exiting the AC compressor) or to the suction port on the AC compressor (still coolish refrigerant returning from the evaporator cools the fuel). IIRC, neither the WSM, SPC, nor OM shows how it's connected clearly. (But the SPC and the WSM figure indicate that this AC heat exchanger in the RH fuel tank is a US version thing.)

 

and this I wonder why they did so???

 

I believe the heat exchanger in the tank is to improve the function of the AC system, not to cool the fuel.

 

but to cool the fuel would make sense

 

That would be my guess, too (as there's no provision to turn "on" the AC system if the fuel system needed it) -- but would like to have someone confirm the plumbing (IIRC, it not an easy thing to see/determine when everything is assembled).

 

I was lazy - thought somebody would know off the top of their head. Here is the way it is routed - red is hot, pink is cooler, blue is cold. Looks like it dumps heat into the fuel to improve ac performance.

Unfortunately, heated fuel raises temp and pressure. IMO - the tank pressures are excessive in my car. ...

Secondary question: How is the tank’s internal pressure regulated?

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

My guess???

Item 14 “two way check valve”... is actually a spring loaded pressure regulator. Can anybody confirm? Has anybody had one of these plug off?

“Two way check valve”... must be an oxymoron like “jumbo shrimp”.

Has anybody had their charcoal canisters plug off?

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Yes when the pressure gets to a certain point the two way valve opens up and it flows into the canisters ..goes thru the carbon and out to atmosphere.

When pressures get lower ..cooling off after a hot drive or a ling idle ..the valve opens up the other way to allow air back into tanks

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

 

Sounds logical & correct - thx!
Looks like I need to pull my valve and clean/inspect.

 

I been doing a lot of analysis on my 512 TR evap system in last few weeks .. so that is why so up to date on it
Remember there will be pressure even if valve is working properly .. the gas cap on a hot day and long idle with a quarter tank will feel like you opened your air compressor tank

I think the wsm states the psi/bar it takes to open valve ..can't remember off hand


Update: about .5 psi of pressure

And from my plumbing days - natural gas in your home should be around 1/3 psi .. to give you an idea of how the gas cap should feel

The that you should also check is the rollover valve to make sure it is not sure closed

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

 

Can't agree with your coloring or conclusion (but I don't really trust that SPC figure of the AC hoses since it's more of hand sketch than a CAD model). If that Table 049 SPC figure is correct:

Agree that hose 22 is a hot (red) high-pressure liquid line from the ac compressor discharge port going to the AC condensor inlet,
but hoses 23 and 24 are warm (pink) high-pressure liquid lines going from the AC condensor outlet (thru the Dryer) to the upstream side of the expansion valve,
and hose 39 is a cold (blue) low-pressure vapor line going from the downstream side of the expansion valve (and evaporator) back to the suction port on the AC compressor.

The parts list on Table 049 indicates that hose 22 is used on all versions, and hose 39 is used on non-US versions while hoses 57 and 58 are used on US version -- i.e., hoses 57 and 58 replace hose 39 on US version and cool the fuel (hoses 57 and 58 do not replace hose 22 as in your coloring). I would still like to know (from a physical example US TR) which port on the AC compressor does that hose 57 connect to -- discharge or suction?

 

Not sure if I remember correctly but I thought it was to cool fuel so that you don't get vapor lock in hot condition

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

 

The drawing shows hose 57/58 as replacing hose 22 for US spec. Heat gets dumped into fuel.

The text suggests that hose 57/58 replaces hose 39. Heat is pulled out of the fuel.

Both can’t be right.

Back to square one.

I’ll crawl around the car in the morning to confirm.

 

This pic is taken from the passenger side and clearly shows the “DIS” discharge marking on the passenger side of the car and pump.

The pump is a very common SD-508 by Sanden.


Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

This old pic shows the hose going into the fuel tank:
Image Unavailable, Please Login