Ferrari FF Carbon Build Up - Problem and Questions | FerrariChat

Ferrari FF Carbon Build Up - Problem and Questions

Discussion in 'FF/Lusso' started by aureux, May 2, 2021.

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  1. aureux

    aureux Rookie

    Mar 14, 2021
    40
    Ontario, Canada
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    John M
    My FF has about 20k miles on it, and its out of warranty, so I wanted to give it a power tune.

    Before doing so, and that its the start of the season, I was going to change the oil, and at the same time give it fresh sparkplugs and some new BMC airfilters.

    I decided to quickly take a look at the cylinders, and to my shock, I've got quite a bit of carbon build up. Much more than I'd anticipate for this kind of mileage; car looks like a 100k mile BMW.

    So I'm going to pull the lower plenum, and I'm going to wallnut blast the valves, before I start, I was wondering if any Ferrari techs can chime in, I have a few questions;

    Is there a TSB or official procedure that Ferrari uses to wallnut blast an F140, or if not, what do they do for carbon build up? there isn't anything in the tech manual.

    Are there any special tools to purchase, specifically the vacuum lead adapter that sits against the cylinder head intake port?

    Also, I'm definitely considering a catch can at this point, anyone make a kit or am I stuck making my own?


     
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  2. AllItalian

    AllItalian Karting
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    Jan 20, 2019
    94
    TX
    Wow nice work with that scope .....why do t you use a cleaner first ?
     
  3. Il Co-Pilota

    Il Co-Pilota F1 Veteran

    May 29, 2019
    6,023
    Hopefully some place nice.
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    A.B
    Rather than taking things apart, try a proper chemical clean first.

    I've seen the following method work great on both the Cali and 458, which are both really bad when it comes to carbon build-up.

    Start by giving your engine two rounds of treatment with CRC GDI IVD Intake valve cleaner. Make sure you spray it in after the MAF. Be liberal with it in both banks. Between the first and second clean and after the second, give the car a good flogging.

    Then run two full tanks of fuel each with 18oz of Royal Purple Max clean mixed in. Don't be shy about pushing a bit or about keeping the revs up. You will want the burn to be clean and the fuel flow to be plentiful.

    After these two tanks finish off with one last CRC treatment.

    Finish off by running half a tank or so without additives through the car. Change the oil and filter at this point as lots of gunk and crap has been loosened, and because the additives have now mixed with the oil.

    This is a very effective method, and a lot more getle than media blasting valves, valve seats etc.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using FerrariChat.com mobile app
     
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  4. FerrFan101

    FerrFan101 Rookie

    Nov 28, 2018
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    Doug Alekson
    #4 FerrFan101, May 7, 2021
    Last edited: May 7, 2021
    Let me just say for starters. I am an expert on this topic...

    Don't jump to walnut blasting, especially at just 20K miles. As a previous post indicated, you should use chemical treatment (first). Walnut blasting is only required if you've skipped the periodic (recommended every 20K miles on a direct injection motor) chemical treatment.

    The only (chemical) treatment worthwhile to consider is BG. They make a specific product for the direct injection engine and it uses a specific tool (canister and fittings) to properly perform the treatment to the vehicle. A shop that does BG treatments should charge you about $350 - $500 for this on the V12 (may use two large cans). BG even makes a tool which will blip the throttle at the required intervals to help in the process of coating the intake plenum and valves and then blasting it out. The treatment is called their GDI air/fuel and valve cleaning service (or something close ;). Product code for the (large) can is KF65-N1TD. Please note, I am not a BG employee but I know their products and fuel systems well.

    So, what's changed requiring this treatment now with direct injected engines? Well, with the old port fuel injection system, the injectors were UPSTREAM of the intake valves and cleaned the valves just in the regular course of operation. Now with direct injectors, the are DOWNSTREAM as they atomize fuel directly into the combustion chamber. As such, the valves don't stay as clean. They MUST be cleaned every 20K or you are on your way to a much more expensive and riskier to administer walnut blasting.

    Mid 2010's Lexus ISF was the best of both worlds as it was both direct injected AND port fuel injected! Cleaned the valves and benefited from the direct injection tech as well.

    So, find the right shop and have the BG treatment done. I use multiple BG products within cars and within my Ferrari's maintenance routine.

    Royal Autowerks in Overland Park KS handles the service on my brother-in-law's Ferraris and other vehicles.

    - Doug
     
  5. aureux

    aureux Rookie

    Mar 14, 2021
    40
    Ontario, Canada
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    John M
    Update: I've already pulled the intake plenum off, honestly didn't take me longer then about an hour, and I've already contacted 3Denton Auto to 3D print me the intake port vacuum attachment, I gave him the specs from mine, so anyone else looking to get the tool for an F140 can order one from him as well.

    As for for chemical cleaning, I'm personally not a fan; my biggest fear is a piece of that carbon debris flaking off during the cleaning process, and getting stuck on the valve seat causing a valve leak, that would turn into an absurdly costly adventure at the sake of some potential convenience.

    I much rather manually remove debris during controlled circumstances where I know the valves are fully closed.

    Wallnut blasting is really not as abrasive as people make it out to be, or the new form of carbon blasting is Potassium Hydroxide but I don't know anyone with a machine here; and the nice part about the F140 head is you can really touch the valves with your fingers, so I might even just manually remove some of the debris with carb cleaning wands.

    I'll keep everyone posted, hopefully with pics and results.
     
  6. Il Co-Pilota

    Il Co-Pilota F1 Veteran

    May 29, 2019
    6,023
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    A.B
    Question. Why did you ask us? You seem to have it all figured out.

    My experience with walnut blasting is this. I've seen things happen where valve stems got little scratches, I've seen seats that needed cutting or changing after, I've seen tolerances change on stems and valve heads.

    Do as you think is best, I've just had the best experience with engines over the years by doing the least invasive proceedures.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using FerrariChat.com mobile app
     
  7. RayJohns

    RayJohns F1 Veteran
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    May 21, 2006
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    I've had good luck cleaning carbon build up on pistons by letting them soak overnight in Marvel Mystery oil and/or Berryman B12 injector cleaner. You usually have to scrub a little with a toothbrush or paper towels.

    I'm with Co-pilot as far as less abrasive is better.

    Ray
     
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  8. aureux

    aureux Rookie

    Mar 14, 2021
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    John M
    My question was what the Ferrari techs are using tool wise for walnut blasting which is pretty much the gold standard for carbon removal, as its complete safe and fully degradable.

    Secondly, I highly question the possibility of doing any kind of valve seat damage or tolerance changes during walnut blasting, it would have to be a completely isolated and freak occurrence, you can literally walnut blast your hand for a good 15 seconds, its by my standards less abrasive than a brush.

    Thirdly, it was not my intent to start a debate on walnut blasting vs chemical cleaning service as I believe it would turn into a debate based on conjecture.
     
  9. aureux

    aureux Rookie

    Mar 14, 2021
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    John M
    Final Update;

    I've walnut blasted the intake valves, I can safely say that it is a lengthy process due to the sheer number of cylinders. Car is back together and is running impeccably; in the next few weeks I'll have to figure out how to add an additional last line of defense for oil separation before the blow-by reaches the intake.

    Anyone try the Pro-Vent series from Mann-Hummel? there 200 series claims 200 liters of blow-by per minute.

    Before



    After



    Pics of the header adapter made by 3Denton Auto to 3D, and yes, that's a camera, really helps point the blasting, and, no it doesn't get damaged by the walnuts.



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  10. RayJohns

    RayJohns F1 Veteran
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    You clearly don't own your own media blast cabinet :)

    While stuff like soda blasting and walnut blasting maybe isn't as invasive as something like glass or sand blasting, I think you should still heed Co-pilota's cautions here.

    As far as blasting your hand for 15 seconds, that's all true. You can also hit your pillow with a hammer 10 times and nothing bad happens. Hard against soft usually doesn't cause much damage to either surface. However, hit your kitchen window with the same hammer and see what happens. It's a similar theory here with media blasting - when you're firing mordantly hard walnut shells into hard surfaces, it's a lot different than firing then into the side of a soft rubber tire. You should still exercise caution.

    The safest way to remove carbon build up is through the use of solvents and soft towels. Always has been, always will be. I just had to remove a bunch of carbon from the pistons in my engine (while changing cylinder heads and replacing the head gasket) and that's how I accomplished it. Soak over night; wipe away with soft towels and a soft used toothbrush; repeat:

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    Also, keep in mind that jobs like these are usually only as good as the people doing the work. If someone skilled is doing the blasting, then maybe it will work out okay. However, it's still an invasive procedure on a state-of-the-art motor; so just be careful.

    So when they do this job, do they block off the exhaust manifolds and intake manifolds so media doesn't get blown back up into the manifolds or what?

    Ray
     
  11. RayJohns

    RayJohns F1 Veteran
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    That's pretty nice!

    Be careful adding an oil catch can into the mix; sometimes it can reduce the effectiveness of the PCV system and that can result in higher pressures in the crankcase. Ferrari's dry sump system might not be as touchy, but it's something to keep in mind.

    Ray
     
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  12. aureux

    aureux Rookie

    Mar 14, 2021
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    Oh ultimately I agree, unfortunately that's a luxury to pull the heads and chemically cleaning the valves, so had to do the next best thing.
     
  13. RayJohns

    RayJohns F1 Veteran
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    From what I saw in the video, it looks like it worked out spectacularly well!

    Ray
     
  14. aureux

    aureux Rookie

    Mar 14, 2021
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    Yes, this is the concern I have. I've done a bit of digging and can't seem to find the magic number for max potential blow-by flow per minute on a Ferrari F140.
     
  15. RayJohns

    RayJohns F1 Veteran
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    Yeah, I don't know either. I did some testing on my truck motor and having the catch can and extra hoses in the mix resulted in too much crankcase pressure. I ultimately had to remove it.

    Ray
     
  16. Cavanmc

    Cavanmc Rookie

    Oct 20, 2023
    6
    Seattle
    Sorry to revive an old thread here. Maybe someone can chime in on what the torque specs would be for reinstalling the plenum? or where I could find the specifications?

    Thank you
     

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