360 Drive Cycle Procedure - Advice?

Yes, Ferraris procedure is confusing.

I have a post here that explains it in plain English and I offer some tips. Kindly do a search.

Dan


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Tried this several times on my previous 360 before handing car over to dealer to get it done.

 

You let off the accelerator and coast until you’re down to 2000 rpm. The instructions don’t say to go to 2000 and also maintain your speed. Just don’t get in the way of faster traffic (easier said than done).
The cycle works, but it’s not easy to find a road or time when you can do the cycle according to instructions. It may be easier these days with shelter-in-place regulations and less traffic. Best is a highway with at least two lanes in the direction of travel and enough off-ramps to pull off the road safely.
You also need to start with a cold engine after the car sits overnight. I did mine early in the morning, no doubt annoying my neighbors.


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That pretty much matches the instructions for setting belt tension with removing and replacing the little tensioner lock.

 

Drive cycle explanation (may be Dan's, forget) and also a simplified drive cycle that works most times.



The purpose of the OBDII drive cycle is to run all of the onboard diagnostics. The drive

cycle should be performed after you have erased any trouble codes from the PCM memory,

or after the battery has been disconnected.

Running through the drive cycle sets all the system monitors so that subsequent faults can

be detected. This is vital for the purposes of our PPI.

The OBDII drive cycle MUST begin with a cold start:

- coolant temperature below 122 degrees F

- coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another

NOTE:

The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the heated oxygen sensor

diagnostic may not run.

F-Car Step 1:

Start the cold engine directly from the key ‘off’ position.

With no driver input, let the engine idle with the ECU in full control of the

idle speed for four (4) minutes.

~ OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.

F-Car Step 2a

Accelerate with moderate throttle and shifting into 3rd or 4th gear &

2,000- 2,500 RPM

~ OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.

F-Car Step 2b

Hold this steady state engine speed in the same gear at 2,000-2,500 RPM

for 3.5 miles.

~ OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.

F-Car Step 2c

Increase the engine speed at a modest rate to 4,500 RPM and hold for 10

seconds or a bit more to ensure a steady state condition.

Decelerate to 2,000 RPM without braking or depressing the clutch.

~ OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.

F-Car Step 3a:

Safely pull over to the side of the road with minimal or no gear changes and

certainly without double clutch blipping of the throttle. Declutch to neutral

when the slowing engine speed calls for it.

Let the engine idle with the engine in neutral and with the clutch out at the

side of the road. Allow the ECU to fully control idle speed with no driver

input.

For a full 5 minutes, allow the engine to idle in neutral with no driver input.

During this 5 minutes of idling, do not change the engine loading by switching

on any accessories (like the A/C).

F-Car Step 3b:

Switch the engine and key fully off after the 5 minute idle.

Keep the key in the off position for 15 to 20 seconds.

F-Car Step 4:

Restart the car and drive it at a moderate acceleration back up to 3rd or

4th in the 2,500 to 3,500 RPM range (i.e.: “normal driving”).

~ OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.

Continue to drive for at least 10 minutes with the car under this steady

state condition (2,500 to 3,500 RPM).

~ OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim,

oxygen sensors and purge functions.

F-Car Step 5:

Safely pull over to the side of the road with minimal or no gear changes and

certainly without any double clutch blipping of the throttle. As appropriate,

keep the engine in gear as you de-accelerate.

~ OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.

Check readiness codes w/ OBDII scanner



Run Cycle



Run cycle.

Turn battery disconnect switch off and turn off all accessories (stereo, A/C, etc).
Let engine get completely cold or wait at least 30 minutes.

Reconnect disconnect switch.

Disarm immobilizer with the fob.
Insert key in ignition and leave for 30 seconds.
Turn ignition to on and leave for 30 seconds.
Turn ignition off and leave for 30 seconds.
Turn ignition on, wait for Check OK, and start. May have to push fob again if 120 seconds have elapsed since last fob actuation.
Let idle with no input whatsoever for 10 minutes.
Turn accessories back on and drive gently for 10-15 minutes at least.
You will have to insert stereo code, if required.

 

Here is Ferrari's latest instructions for drive cycles, that I personally follow several times a week, with 100% success rate:

S

 

Sorry Sam I was busy all day and just now finding time to chime in.

What I have on my tip sheet is (which I still cannot find as my hard drive crashed months ago) pretty much what Taz posted on post number 8 so just follow that.

The only thing I wanted to add which I included on my tip sheet was if for some reason you run out of road and not able to complete a step you do not have to start all over again. Just repeat that specific step.

I did this procedure stated by Taz on my F430 after I replaced all my spark plugs, turned the master switch power off, did the recycle procedure to prepare my car for emissions testing. It passed with flying colors.

We are lucky here in Washington State. Starting this year 2020, no more emissions testing! Yay!!!!!!!!!!
Reason - they said they want the testing to run for 10 years and 10 years is completed and it has served its purpose.

Thanks everyone for helping.

Dan

 

Your welcome Sam.

Glad we can help out.

Dan

 

If you have test pipes and not subject to emission testing, you do not have to do the drive cycle dance?

 

No, but it is designed to reset everything for optimum performance, so never hurts.

 

Wonder if that is why "sport mode" has not worked since I pulled my dash? Have never done a relearn ever.

 

There are some posts here that some owners state the drive cycle reset is an overkill and not necessary as eventually the ECU will pull all the data its looking for and reset itself.

I say it never hurts to try and follow the procedure as I think Ferrari knows what its talking about, usually............

Dan

 

Makes sense.

 

Yes, the drive cycle is to avoid driving a couple hundred miles in random situations hoping to get them all to reset.


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Hi everyone on this thread.

I'm due for a 'Drive Cycle' myself since I have a smog test coming up for my 2009 F430 Manual Gated Transmission vehicle . When I first got it in 2017 I found this attached 'Drive Cycle' from a website entitled 'Ferrari Workshop Forum.' Please note this Bulletin number FNA - 20 shows it pertains to a 360 / 575M. Also an individual who owned a 2005 F430 commented it worked for him and it also worked for me. Thank you for the PDF referred to earlier in this thread as one can never have enough technical data on a Ferrari!

Best Regards to all,

johnfe

 

Thanks to all for the posts on this. I just used the instructions to pass emissions after failing the first time as the battery was recently disconnected for service. It took a couple tries as the roads near me aren’t conducive to the drive cycle requirements but after heading out to the country and finding the right route it came together.

I bought the Autel OBD reader and that was a huge help as well to check after each attempt Wanted to share if others find themselves in the same spot.

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I recently bought a 2001 euro 360 spider. Due to the inclement weather we had in February, the battery died. I was unaware of the drive cycle process, and have driven it around 100 miles. I still have two monitors which are showing not ready. Perhaps this is a dumb question, but should I turn off the mater switch to reset the car again and then follow the drive cycle or should I just do the drive cycle without resetting? If I should reset, is there an amount of time to leave the switch off so that the electronics fully reset?
Perhaps dumb question #2 - Taz when you say
"NOTE:

The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the heated oxygen sensor

diagnostic may not run.

do you mean that I should not wait for the "Check OK" before starting? Typically when I start the car now, I turn the key to the first ignition point, wait for the Check OK to return, then turn the car over.

I am in Missouri and our emissions here are fairly strict. I have found a way to possibly bypass the emissions inspection with a waiver, but doing a drive cycle and getting all the monitors ready is much simpler than wading through all the nuances of state forms etc.

 

I tried this with my 360CS multiple times, to the letter, wouldn't work.
Drove something+++ like 150 miles mostly highway and finally it worked. No special methods, just standard old highway driving.

 

Thanks for the info. I bought a scanner which should arrive next week sometime and will give it a try with more driving. Seems to vary whether people have luck with following the guidelines exactly or just do enough highway driving. Having the scanner in hand will help a lot also.