Transaxle Flushing

I would do many flushes w cheap trans gear oil.. of proper spec.

I would run through gears w no load before each flush... monitor cond of each fluid dump to watch your progress.

 

I wouldn’t use ATF, or Seafoam. Use what normally goes in your gearbox, probably 75-90. It’s cheap and Walmart.com will deliver it to your door the next day.


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They use ATF because it is high detergent so helps break up the goo. They don't drive around under load because it won't protect the transaxle (not thick enough) but it is fine to run it through the gears like One4torque said. After that you have multiple flushes with gear oil. Then drive it a while and change again. It is very messy but can be cleaned out.

 

I’ve used atf in a high mileage bimmer motor that was gunked up very bad—. I put just 1 quart in and let the engine get up to op temp... then drained the mixture out. I only did this since the motor was close to 200k miles and I had a swap ls on deck. The motor picked up power.., for a while.. the vanos operated better... but oil consumption continued or worsened w each track session. I’m too chicken to try this on a f car.

I realize the diff trans is a diff app than the engine.

gl

 

I just posted on my 360 Conversation tread a couple weeks ago about just that .

Had heat exchanger fail with in week after buying ,what made even worst I took it to Orlando Ferrari before I ever drove it SPENT over 15000.00 grand to make sure every thing was perfect after they delivered it. I took it out that night and then it failed with 20 miles.

They pick back up and another 5000.00 they said they replace exchanger and flushed gear box stated on service ticket
10 times
After that spent year at the paint shop for CS conversation, drove it 100 mile or less just wanted to make sure gear box was all clean, drain gear box and it was BLACK and thick.

Ran ATF threw three times on the lift so no load on gear box drain and replaced gear box oil drove it far a day and still not clear and clean . Have good friend owns a transmission shop, they flush there transmission mineral spirits gave me a good ideal .
Bought two gallons of mineral spirits, and a aquarium aerator pump, put just under a gallon mineral spirits and for a couple of days ran pump
while moving clear tube back and forth inside the gear box.

Change out old mineral spirits with new and repeated NOW !! Crystal clear .
My buddy that owns the transmission shop ask that I get the ideal from YouTube ? nope came up with that one on my own, sure there some one else has done this before..

 

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/360-conversion.576325/page-126

 

Not shore how it would work in a trans but in the big semi motors we use a little bit of Diesel in the oil 1/2 gallon in 12 gallons of oil. Let it run for about 10 mins then change it. I got one truck with 1.7 million miles and the oil still clear even after 12,000 miles on the oil change. Same truck cracked injection cup and was leaking in the oil. Run about 10k with the leak. The driver was draining oil out said it was filling up ya with diesel fuel. That happen 400k ago and trucks still fine. Not ur average truck on top of that it’s 700hp I think 2700 torque I have to find the Dino remember. I built two of them and both over 1.5 million miles. But if u want to stay on the safe side I would say Hot Shot’s Secret Stiction Eliminator I have run this and it works.

 

I’ve pondered this issue for a few years. My thinking is this. It is total conjecture.

The problem is water in the gear oil I presume forms an emulsion (the foamy stuff).

Add water (the definition of hydrophilic) to gasoline (hydrophobic). The solution is dry gas aka alcohol. Infinitely missable in water and gasoline.

If this happened to me I would probably experiment with the crud that comes out of the gearbox by using alcohol, maybe combined with atf and see if this quickens the process). Multiple flushes (10!) seems like there must be an easier way.

I tried to create that crud by combining gear oil and coolant, with heating and whipping. Couldn’t do it in my “home lab.”


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I definitely agree that there are various presentations of the crud.

I have zero real world experience with this problem.

My point was adding only atf oil to rid the box of water may not be the most efficient choice as the water may not mix well with atf so the extraction of residual water from box innards won’t be very efficient.

 

After some quick Internet research another common rec is to drain replace the fluid again after a few hundred miles.

 

That’s my thinking. But How much is the question.

100%?
just a pint?
... somewhere between?

That’s why I tried to reproduce that crud to test different solutions, but I failed.


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