Only thing that can be done besides Trevor doing a delete is ecu doctors but it's $850 and it's a plug and play delete. to me it's not worth it better off having Trevor do the delete.i wish mase engineering could do it.he has fast turnaround time compared to Trevor. Sent from my SM-G996U1 using Tapatalk
Turn around is now vastly better (and getting better all the time) now that our network of affiliates in local areas is growing. Nobody else mentioned can really do Randy's special car because for one the deletes mentioned are much more than discussed here. I'm doing a lot of detailed revisions to make the car driving experience far more involving and exciting. Among the many things I am doing is patching the firmware code for a more thrilling driving experience. How? By removing all the smoothing/aliasing that Bosch engineers put in on you throttle algorithms (Not to be confused with throttle sensitivity) for power which helped to make your throttle transitions smoother, great for a Lexus, not so much on Randy's car. For instance going from 20% pedal to 60% won't happen right away on a stock 360 (or even a tuned one), it will be smoothed in over a period of time. This is in fairness what makes the car easier to drive for inexperienced drivers, especially if they have no experience driving high horsepower fast rear wheel drive cars. After the upgrade it behaves more akin to an old school throttle cable. With this upgrade you can steer a 360 on throttle around a bend! Fantastic fun... I'm also retrofitting multi-maps, something that only I (as far as I know) has EVER done on any 360 period. This required modification of the firmware code and algorithms to do so again is highly specialized and no normal tuner could do it without expertise in microcontrollers and reverse engineering (it takes years to perfect the knowledge) and is nothing to do with experience most tuners have which is dyno calibration of maps. You don't need to be an expert in software to tune a car. I'm also taking care of all the deletions of things like air injection, EVAP system, secondary o2's, cat ecu's, thermistors, etc. In a way that isn't just "hiding the fault codes" which in my experience most tuners do wrong, but actually deleting their function out of the code so the faults aren't hidden but never there in the first place. The reason this is important, take for instance air injection, if the pump is gone, the fault code is hidden but the function is still active, you'll get a tonne of over fuelling in the warm up cycle which could cause all kinds of long term problems like bore wash in the longer term and poor running among other things.
Forgot to mention immobilizer point here too which I guess was the main point of the quote .. Personally I think that the mentioned solution isn't the best way to accomplish what most people want. You still need a non failing immobilizer unit for starters and if any of these black boxes go bad it will stop car from starting. This seems therefore a bit pointless to me since if you are considering removing it its probably because its failing in the first place or want to make the car more reliable by removing common failure points (!) or as in Randy's case he wants to completely remove the thing to save weight. Which isn't possible with that approach. I guess it still gives you the convenience of not having to use the fobs but it is far better to completely remove the entire thing in software (my approach) than have all these ecu's and complications sapping power, having potential to fail and cause faults, potentially still leaving you stranded at the side of the road.
I always pull fasteners to measure before order new Titanium fasteners . Thanks anyway good eye for detail..
I'm curious what does a set of the coilpack bolts go for in titanium? Sent from my SM-G996U1 using Tapatalk
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If you look again there is a hell of lot more missing than coil pack bolt LOL . Waiting on custom Titanium exhaust studs from MetTec 8mm just received new Titanium tapered socket heads for oil exhaust ducting and new orings
After removing exhaust headers noticed the was oil seeping in a few places around what Ferrari calls oil exhaust ducting they have two O. R. gaskets hell after years of heat cycling and being rubber I can see why and cheap to replace and very easy .
Replacing all engine and F1 trans bolts and nuts Titanium as well . Going to post weights saving have a pretty good guess just under ten pounds .
I wanted to replace all the bolts for the front and rear stub axels and tie rod ends BUT. Dirk at MetTec after taking a look at there application explained how Ferrari spent a great deal of effort manufacturing these fastens. Several heat cycling for maximum strength would not recommend having them made in Titanium they may shear under load.
can u tell me what bolts You talking about. I did some R&D on bolts for airplane. If you saying 10 24 and 20 they are under load. If u really want to know send the old set out to be tested cost about $80 - $150 and they can tell u what the OEM bolts are.
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