328 Water Pump replacement?

Thanks Mike,,
I replaced the plenum hoses while I was there but you are right in saying its a ripe pain in the butt to get them both on at the same time..
I wanted to see how hard it was going to be so I trial fitted both ways and in the end the easiest combination I could get was putting the bottom hose on the engine and the top hose on the pump housing assembly..

I used a bit of soap on both the hoses and pipe and after quite a bit of swearing, it slipped on..

I measured the O ring and it appears to be 41mm and 3mm thick,, I will try and source one locally tomorrow from the local Auto spare parts store..

Ha Ha,, yes I know the clamps are 7mm but I was referring to the socket extensions being 1/4” drive..

 

Thanks Mitchell, if I can’t find one I will do that,,
The O ring isn’t hard or cracked and is still soft, just flat from being compressed for over 33 years..

Is the consensus to apply a bit of gasket sealer to the pump gasket or leave it dry?
I think I may remember reading somewhere that either way is fine..

 

It's a standard O-ring. Just measure the OD/ID of the groove and pony up the 49 cents for a replacement at the local Home Depot, Lowes, Tru value, etc!

Oops - I see you're in Oz; probably different hardware stores there...

You should't need any sealant but a light smear of your favorite stuff won't hurt in case there are any imperfections in the mating surfaces.

 

Thanks Mike

 

If u put sealer on it, be sure it is near the outside and superthin, too much and it will end up inside the impeller. I did not think an aussy used precision tools like a 1/4 drive, more like one inch

 

I found the o ring,
It’s a 34mm id
3mm thick

 

Finished the job today after starting it yesterday,,
Replacing the pump on its own isn’t that much of a time consuming job, replacing the two hoses under the plenum is a ripe pain in the butt , especially tightening the hose.

In an ideal world, if you were able to remove the pump from the thermostat housing, it would be an hour job.

 

This is why most mechanics prefer to address the water pump and the two large hoses (as well as the small bleed hose and its fitting) during the major service, while the engine lid is OFF, and the air plenum is also OFF. It will cost the customer 1 hour of labor plus the water pump, instead of 8 hours of labor and the pump.

In the end, waiting for the water pump to fail then replace it really does not save you any money at all. In ALL of my cars, water pumps are replaced preemptively even on non Ferrari vehicles. Especially the Porsche 997 that my wife drives and the Audi A3 that my daughter drives. The Porsche water pump gets replaced at 60K miles and the Audi one gets replaced before the kid heads off to college for 4 years.

 

Although I don't agree with replacing parts preemptively, I wouldn't strongly disagree with replacement of the Ferrari WP at 60k miles. That's around the minimum figure that an automotive OEM WP is expected to be trouble free - typically 60-90k miles. Of course, that's based on keeping coolant of decent quality/proper mixture in the system AND actually driving the car occasionally to keep the WP seal in good condition.

 

Makes sense. And yet no manufacturer I am aware of has a water pump replacement in its scheduled maintenance regimen. One would think they would want to do this to maintain the reliability statistics on their vehicles. Water pumps and alternators probably cause more strandings than any other components and yet are not proactively serviced. Weird for an industry that generally loves to find ways to make money on the service side of things.

 

Here is the thing. Ferraris almost never get driven to 60,000 miles in a few years. You and I drive 2000 miles a year (if I am lucky) and 60kmiles would take 30 years. I have disassembled enough water pumps to know they don't last 30 years. Most Ferrari gets water pump replaced at 2 or 3 service intervals and that would be fine.

My wife puts 15,000 miles a year on her Porsche and the little kid puts 10k miles a year on her Audi. Either one of them would continue driving their cars after the idiot engine light has come on when the water pump has let go and all the coolant has left the building. And that is why I don't wait for the pump to fail before I replace them.

For example, this is from a 1985 308QV whose water pump was not leaking.

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My 19 years old daughter is not going to be standing by the side of the road while her car's engine is steaming off due to a water pump. Her Audi also got a new radiator, new battery, new starter, new alternator, new coolant hoses, new coolant tank, a new heater hose coupling, new tires, new accessory belt before she went to college (most of the parts are Audi parts). Call me a worried dad. I even taught her how to change her tire and give her AAA membership after I did all I can so she does not need it. Thank you.

 

As we often comment - people should do what they are comfortable with, NOT what someone else is comfortable with.

So if replacing all that stuff is what it takes for you to feel comfortable, it's absolutely the correct thing to do!!

 

I rebuilt my qv water pump as preventative mait after 17 years (25000miles) and it was not leaking, but the friggin 2 piece seal failed twice on me and I threw up my hands and bit the bullet and bought Nick Forzas pump, as I was planning on keeping the car forever.

 

I’m just glad. I don’t have to worry about replacing those two hoses for another 20 odd years!

 

sufferin' succotash!

when i quit bowing at the alter of the yellow horsey, i realized my life might be more peaceful.

since i've done that, the 3k intervals of engine maintenance have been tolerable!

i'm not suggesting i've cut corners, i merely suggest i've adjusted intervals a bit.

if any of you might be interested in purchasing my gabriella, you will be impressed!

there is a fine line between idiosy and prudency.

 

Who has the best pumps these days?

I think it is about time for me. The one on it now I put on in Sept 1997.

That, and it has 70,000 miles on it now.

 

I know I seem to be in the minority for this sort of thinking but I'd leave it alone until it demonstrates it needs to be replaced - seeps from the weep hole or bearing roughness. And then I'd put a rebuild kit in it. I don't see the point in paying for a part (housing) that essentially can't wear out!

 

I always replace mine when it starts to act up. I only get about 5-6 years. I have replaced it 5 or 6 in 30+ years. I think frequent driving may be key to those who don't see failures. The WP is about the only item I have replaced multiple times. Besides belts/seals etc.

 

"I think frequent driving may be key to those who don't see failures."

Probably! Not being used is the worst thing for just about any device, especially mechanical devices and even more especially, seals on such devices.

 

Honestly, Nick.
Been using his pumps on builds for over a decade.
Over engineered and brand new casting for the body.

 

My opinion - most likely Nick. Mine seems to be still working well, but when it comes time to replace - I'm buying one of his.

 

If anyone is considering getting one of Nicks WP, I highly recommend sooner then later, this last yr has mfg backlogged over a yr going forward.
If I'm lucky I'll get 3 engines built this yr... 3! It sucks.
Get your spares while you can guys...