here's some background from the original FS thread. page 2 has a lot of history. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/1977-ferrari-308-gt4.631277/ sjd
Here it is in better days. My photo properties says that I saved it in 2008 so it is at least that old. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Would that be the lighter or the darker? I've only seen one Grigio Ferro GT4 for sale, and it was an almost black. 246 Dinos got the lighter more silver color. sjd
it`s like this.... 308 GT4 and 246GT/GTS same colour.... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ok tool perverts, you owe me Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ok it’s high time I need help, started setting distributors today, this car is running one set of points per, everything else was removed previously, I checked flywheel for proper marks, someone did the white mark just before pm1, probably couldn’t make out the rusty stuff, I marked with green metal ink, so it’s up on pm1, looked in oil hole and low and behold there is a mark, cam lobe is pointing up, can’t remember if it’s correct compression stroke, I used it. Then I nudged the flywheel a bit more until I hit pm5, I do not know if your supposed to do that or do a full rotation until you hit pm5. I did the barely moved it. Help. I cleaned out the gas tank and put fresh gas in it, took about 10 minutes of cycling on and off trying to start the car and get the gas in and out of those carbs, but it finally hit, idled for a bit and then it’s got the backfiring and popping like it’s hitting on four. I have not changed the really sucky plug wires or the spark plugs yet because I don’t have any. I do however have PerTronixs coming. I snapped a picture of the rotor position as I timed it to pm1, wasn’t to far off but it was off, so is 5-8 truly 180 off? Car now fires off immediately but snap crackle pop Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
When you have the flywheel at the PM1-4 mark and the cam mark is lined-up = this is essentially the cyl #1 firing position (and the 1-4 dist rotor should be pointing at the notch in the 1-4 dist housing rim). You would then rotate the crank snout 90 deg CW (viewed looking at the crank snout) to the PM5-8 mark which would be the cyl #5 firing position (and the 5-8 dist rotor should be pointing at the notch in the 5-8 dist housing rim). Is the white paint mark on your clutch pressure plate housing at the PM1-4 mark or the aqua paint mark? At the PM1-4 mark, there should be another mark at 7 deg BTDC (for R1) and a third mark for 3 deg ATDC (for R2). Likewise, at the 5-8PM mark, there should be another mark at 7 deg BTDC (for R1) and a third mark for 3 deg ATDC (for R2). (I.e., you should really have three paint marks on the clutch pressure plate housing at/near the PM1-4 mark, and three paint marks on the clutch pressure plate housing at/near the PM5-8 mark.)
Thanks Steve, exactly what I need, I did not rotate flywheel enough, so 5-8 is 180 out. White mark is incorrect, green is on the mark
If the green paint mark is on the PM1-4 mark, then the white paint mark would be near the 7 deg BTDC mark (for an R1 only system) -- but it seems a little too close to the PM1-4 mark to my foggy memory so you might check that.
Here's a reference shot of the +7 deg BTDC, PM1-4, and -3 deg ATDC marks on a US 308 carb flywheel: Image Unavailable, Please Login Just based on the distances, it looks to me that, in your photo, your white mark would be PM1-4 and the green mark would be -3 deg ATDC for R2 idle (or if the green mark really is PM1-4, then the white mark is only about +3 deg BTDC, not +7 deg BTDC for R1) -- so don't trust someone else's markings without rechecking carefully
It’s getting pretty annoying, I’ve set the damn timing so many times, I knew I did it right the first time, low and behold I spot the problem with 5-8 the damn center pin is missing from the cap, i managed to figure out that a 91 geo metro one will fit so it goes in, won’t start, check timing yet again, look in 1-4 cap, damn pin is missing, somehow it was arcing day before and running kinda, another geo pin, no start. I bet I killed the plugs. It does have spark on both banks Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Got it, changed out the dead plugs to 5 range, bang vroom, still need to throw a timing light on, suspect the wires are making it pop but has power and no smoke Image Unavailable, Please Login
5 hours later it’s all sorted, no more backfire, carbs idle, pulls hard down the road, drove it over to the shop and put it on the lift to see what’s what and start the process
It went away after I used a timing light and adjusted carbs, I half assed the timing to 16*, I have pertronix and blaster coils coming tomorrow or Monday, doesn’t smoke, only a couple oil drips. This is going to be a fun car, always wanted a carbed 308. I even oiled the seats. Someone take pity on me and give me a decent interior, I only need: door panels, seats front and rear, rear head rests, dashboard, sun visors, headliner also 16’ wheels for fun. I’m not spending any money on this car for awhile, the outlaw 308 is going to take just a bit more money to get it close to driving
You only need? Lol. That’s a lot of interior. Check the obvious. eBay , and GTCARPARTS. If they call back.
Door and other trim panels look simple enough to recover even as an amateur. Seats would need a pro. You could always try some sheepskin seat covers until you have the front seats professionally done? Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Ugh, hate the VW sounding burble. That’s a someday change, I will be cutting it apart and modifying it though. I can’t leave anything alone. Yanked all the bumpers off, will be filling in with sheet metal as well as the lower areas, tour out all the dead AC stuff and the fans and will start the cleanup and rust repair. It did not come with any lower valance or anything so I’ll be having to fab that up as well, The bumpers are not in good shape and missing chunks out of it, the bumper pistons are in good shape. Everything I remove from this car is available Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
