Top work. How bad was it then getting the old manifold bolts off? Still have some skin left on your knuckles? Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Those big plenum hoses were upgraded for the 575M, but not those small ones that go to the expansion tank. Still 1950s rubber. With any luck, just a hose clamp, but check and make sure they are not clogged.
I fear, it's the the small hose under the plenum. Had the same issue years ago, leaked only when hot and high pressure. Changed to silicone hose for just a few $/€ Daniel
Hands have some cuts and I was wearing gloves. I think I have the worst manifold to-go (left rear) with the brake components & steering shaft. But the others were not awful, had to use quite a few different tools though. If anyone is doing this and not planning on running SAI, have the fabricator delete the SAI ports on the manifolds or just have the SAI go to one port in each manifold. There are no easy outs removing multiple parts at once, everything has to come out on its own which is time consuming.
I believe headers out at he 550 is difficult, at the 575 is horrible, at the 599 GTB is hell. Had done 1st and 3rd. Daniel
So you get the same weight savings as if you have 9 lbs. less fuel in the tank? Or eat lettuce for a month
Did you take off the splash guard inner fender covers? That should make it much easier to work on the exhaust. I replaced my catalyzers from the underside of my 550 while the car was on jack stands and without taking the inner fender covers off. That was tricky to say the least, especially for the original big catalyzers. You should have a super sound without cats. What is the rest of your exhaust?
Basically. But when combined with the weight loss from the rest of the exhaust, it brings the total savings to over 118lbs. Given the location of the engine and how nose heavy this thing is, every pound up there counts. lol I didn't take the inner fender splash shields off. While they do give access, it didn't give any additional access from above/under with my downpipes. I could see that being necessary with the originals. The rest of my exhaust is equal length downpipes with an oversized X pipe; full 2.5" diameter titanium pipes; and muffler deletes with valves. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
interesting. So no mufflers at all.. How is the sound level at different rpm. cold/warm engine and other different conditions? Anything close to a Murice? I need to get some more fun factor and sound in my 550.
None at all. The valves & smaller diameter tip section (2.25") used when the valves are closed act as a muffler. Surprisingly it's quite tame with the valves closed. Honestly about what I would expect a V12 Ferrari to sound like stock. Valves open is much louder, but still not as loud as I expected. I'm hoping to change that with the 550 manifolds. I really think the quietness boils down to the equal length & x-section of the downpipes. I've been in cars with stock downpipes and different cat backs and they are much louder in the car. Cold start with valves open hits 106db. But when the valves close its real quiet. The Murci is on a whole different level of loud, it overpowers other cars at any rpm. When I would move cars around I couldn't hear my Viper with long tube headers and straight through mufflers running when the Lambo was on.
@white out I hadn't realized or forgot that you doing "muffler-less". I had just this weekend been re-reading the thread about permanently setting the OEM muffler valve to permanently open. Gonna need another video....;-) and then sometime we need to get you and @niftyfivefifty in a 2nd gear side by side roll on "race".....but for that I need advance warning because I want to ride shotgun in one car or at least be present for that amazingness.
It is quite interesting...Thanks for sharing. On my 456M the best sound by far was also with no mufflers and there was no drone either. I had original cats, Stebro 1 Ft «x-pipe (an oval pipe) and muffler deleted. It was so great sound also when engine braking. Which is fun when you go into a stop light etc. We have discussed here on Fchat in another thread a long time ago about cars with long thin pipes behind the mufflers like the old Ferraris, many Jaguars like the Mark2, Triumph V8 Stag etc.... They all have great sound. Pure and «musical» which is what I like. Because of this, I have designed a special center muffler with valves so it is possible yo have that cool sound both muted and loud... It is only on the drawing board yet. But would be fun to make! Have you heared a 250 Testarossa from the 1950’ies?
Your Ti lightweight exhaust is awesome. Would you be able to share where you found your titanium lug bolts? Watching what you decide to do next with this car is always fun to follow.
I finally got the driver rear manifold out. What a PITA. 2 hours for one manifold. Lower bolts connecting to the downpipe required a ball-end allen/hex to get an angle as there was zero room to get a tool in straight. I didn't have one, so there was a couple day delay to get one. NBD. I knew the left rear (driver side - USDM car) was going to be difficult because of the location of the brake booster and the steering shaft. Unfortunately, I didn't know how correct I was, this sucked. The lower rear nut was impossible to get to with standard tools (specialty tool is clearly necessary) and a short 1/4" drive socket was too big to fit over the nut and clear the heat shield (deep socket had no chance). Zero room for a wrench. Just to access the nut I had to remove the front wheel and inner fender as it couldn't be accessed from on top or under the car. Initially the socket went into the small cavity where the nut was, but it wedged in and wouldn't come out. So I used the extension as a pry bar and gave the socket some clearance on the heat shield. This allowed the socket to slide about 50% on the nut and I gave it some force to catch. I wanted to hammer it on, but knew I'd be screwed if it didn't work. So I hoped that it would bite with what grip it had. Tools used a 1/4" drive 13mm socket, u-joint, wobble extension, u-joint, extension and adapter for 3/8" ratchet. Pushed/braced the extension as much as possible to keep the force straight on the nut and bam, nut broke loose. Was able to easily get the nut out after that. Thank God. The upper rear was also in a tight spot and required the same tools and access through the wheel arch, but there was plenty of room for the socket. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login How I felt after getting all the manifolds out: Image Unavailable, Please Login
Tonight I got the driver side manifolds in. Then attached all four manifolds to the downpipes. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Casualty of the day Image Unavailable, Please Login More to go before I fire it up.
Its funny because I was thinking the same exact thing. Recently when installing a hitch on my little truck I did a "righty-tighty-to-righty-loosey" and that was simple...header bolts....ooooh mama! ;-)
Will be interesting to see how she does without the pre-cats and freer flowing headers. No CELs hopefully. Those wobble drives are not too stout.
Nick- Sounds like mine when I put on unvalved Novitec Super Sport mufflers with OEM headers and OEM straight center pipes. Loud enough to wake the dead. Tailpipes were 90 mm vs OEM 72 mm and you could look all the way through the mufflers from the back. Nothing at all coming out of the outer two tailpipes.
