QV clutch slave cylinder

Nice find! I hope it has a Seeger ring on in the cylinder to stop the piston. The problem with my previous non OEM one was that the system pushed out the piston slowly. The OEM one has a Seeger ring to prevent that issue.

 

I received the clutch slave today. The good news is the cylinder has the proper diameter of 20.6 mm or 13/16", the bad news is it doesn't have a seeger ring. My question is if this ring is really necessary and in what situation will the cylinder pop out? Isn't there a stop in the clutch itself preventing the cylinder to pop out?
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"1. Check the slack adjustment on the master cyl pushrod ... it is adjustable (you need to be a midget and/or remove the front seat to get under there on your back) by means of a locknut. You should take up any slack. This will give you a better throw. Get someone to operate the clutch while you observe the slave ... the clutch lever only moves an inch or two and that's all it takes to operate the clutch."

Anyone got a diagram of this? I have bled my slave cylinder loads and still the biting point is too low as if the pedal is not operating the clutch until low down in its travel, causing issues with gearchange when warmed up.

 

When you have a different diameter then OEM its possible you will have problems as discribed.

For those who are in the need for seals for master and slave clutch pump, I have them in stock. Just send me a pm.

Guido

 

Yes, Alfa units (both master and slave) work at 1/10th the price. I DID both and it cost me a shattered clutch disc. You need to understand that I do not do parades in my cars. I run them like hell. Two years ago I swapped out both clutch hydraulic cylinders for Alpha units and every thing was copacetic. Until I was hot running at 7,700 rpms at 90 degrees F.

I suspect a bad sympathetic hydraulic resonance. I don't know for sure but the event catastrophically destroyed not only BOTH Alpha units but also shattered the clutch plate. Accordingly, I have repeatedly warned against using the Alpha parts! This is something buyers need to know about! If the car you buy shows replacement clutch hydraulics you need to understand this is not necessarily a good thing.

Depending on how you drive the car it could be a very very bad thing indeed.

 

Well, bummer .... I walked out to the garage to take a drive in the Mondial last night and discovered that the clutch pedal is now going to the floor without much resistance. There's also a nice little puddle of brake fluid under the rear of the car. So.... it looks like it's time to replace either the slave cylinder or the line to it. I've read through this entire thread - thanks for the suggestions.

Has anyone replaced the clutch slave or the hydraulic line in their car recently? Are there any updates to slave cylinder or line alternatives that may work in their place? Any newer suggestions on how best to do the job?

Thanks and I hope that 2021 is off to a great start for everyone!

2cam

 

... change both the cylinder and the hose while you are in there!

 

Clutch slave cylinder is one of the parts you will need to change every so many years. It might help if you replace the hydraulic fluid every year.

https://www.awitalian.com/product/clutch-slave-cylinder-107867.html/

 

That definitely makes sense!

Thanks for the link! After reading the entirety of this thread (and a couple of others), it does seem like the slave cylinders are a wear item.

Has anyone rebuilt the slave cylinder themselves or had it done by White Post (or another company)? I may want to have the current one rebuilt and ready for the next time it happens.

2cam

 

I change the seal every 2 years. Its a 30 minits job and you can leave the cilinder in situ. Just remove the seeger ring, piston drops out when pushing pedal, change seal and put every thing back. Seal cost almost nothing.

 

Hmmm. This is intriguing. To confirm, are you saying that you really don't need to replace the entire cylinder assembly? Just the internal seal(s) without removing the cylinder from the car? I'd love to hear more!

What seals do you use for the job? Do you hone the cylinder's internal surface at all? It's definitely worth giving it a go if it's that easy.

Texbike

 

If you change the seal (only 1) from the slave cilinder every 2 years no need to hone. The fluid will be changed also, so no chance moisture will enter.
To put the piston back is a 3 hands job....1 hand to hold the screwdriver that presses the piston inside the cilinder. The 2 other hands you need to put the seeger ring back in place. I put the seeger ring around the screwdriver before pushing piston in place. And because I'm alone its a bit harder. Try a screwdriver that you can block on the chassis,, so you have 2 hands free.
To find the seals pm me. The donut seal for the master is almost impossible to find. Changing the seals for master cilinder is more difficult.

 

I tried to PM you and was told I can’t? Don’t know why? Am I on your ignore list? Will you pm me the source for the seals please? Thanks


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Hello all,

Thanks for your inspiration. I tried the following by using the slave cylinder "BOSCH 0986486573" (mine was a replica by another brand).

Bore diameter as already mentioned is same as original (20.64mm). Only differences:
- without the retaining ring to hold the piston
- much more shorter spring.
- good news is that the piston has two sealing rings

So I calculated the piston position in relation to the braked and I shortened the original spring. My goal was for having same spring force as original.

For re-assembling I used a cable tie to hold the piston back.

By the way the expensive brake fluid line was a rebuild by around EUR 50.- from a company where you can choose all components to build custom-made hoses.

See also pictures below. (New cylinder on the right)

Noe I need to finalize my restoration and I hope I can report soon how the new slave cylinder works

Regards

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