Fabspeed headers and stock cats triggered a CEL (421/431 IIRC) which I fixed with Fabspeed mini cat extenders AND overnight battery kill switch. Eventually I installed hyper flow cats (similar to Fabspeed’s) my mechanic told me he tested emissions with the hyper flow cats and he said he doubt it it will trigger a CEL even without the extenders. I asked him to install them just to be safe. Two years later no CEL. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Guys my Swiss army knife latest version now has an automatic option to enable and disable secondary cat efficiency sensing directly in the ROM code of the ignition ECUs. Once reflashed you'll never have a problem again and you can remove the post cat O2s and fit a bung if you want. I'll add 430 support soon now but fully operational on all 360s now. Will do a version which doesn't disable secondary o2s but just alters their threshold for triggering the CEL to make them much less sensitive.
That sounds like the optimum solution, to account for revised emissions parameters and retaining data to the ECUs.
Yes that is next although it's pretty easy to force readiness on these ECU's. What a dumb ass by design solution, why didn't each test center just sniff tailpipe emissions (like everyone else does around the world!) rather than allowing the car to tell it what's being read. Dieselgate was just waiting to happen... Image Unavailable, Please Login
I will not install am headers until trev software update is avail to force readiness. I will not drive my f car w an obd dongle connected so I can reset codes every other drive. No way!
An update ... I mentioned earlier that with the Fabspeed headers, you eliminate the pre-cats in the stock header. Threw the P0421 / P0431 codes that the catalytic converter is not operating efficiently. Put on O2 extenders or mini-cats and then received P0139 / P0159 codes that the downstream O2 sensors have slow response times. My thought is that the sensor were too far outside of the exhaust stream. The dimensions of the O2 extender are ... Overall length: 48mm Internal thread 18mm diameter Internal throat depth: 35mm Exit hole size: 6.5mm Image Unavailable, Please Login The critical element is the throat depth is deep enough so you can thread the Ferrari O2 sensor without bottoming out. On the Ferrari 360, the O2 sensor depth is about 21mm. OK, my thought is that perhaps the O2 needs to inserted a bit more ... not directly in the exhaust stream, but a bit more. If you mosey on down to the local Autozone you can acquire what is called a spark plug anti-fouler. This is basically a shorter version of the O2 extender. Overall length: 32mm Internal thread 18mm diameter Internal throat depth: 18.5mm Exit hole size: 6.5mm I gently drilled the through depth about 5mm deeper to accept the O2 sensor. I had be careful here cuz if you go too deeply you compromise the side walls on the external threads of the extender. Ask me how I know. I have just finished installing these shorter extenders and the O2 sensors. Will report back on results. If this doesn't work, then plan B to install new bungs further downstream on the cats ... see ferralc's post (https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/keep-precat-or-remove-it-please-advise.571437/page-3#post-146507408) Actually, may try to enlarge the exit hole of the extender first ... maybe go from 6.5 mm to 12 mm diameter. We'll see how this first iteration works out. Steve
So now years later, did Trev finish the software and is it available to download? I can read and write the ECU almost at will.
I popped out my precats on my 04 360, added extenders on downstream sensors and not an issue in 2 years....
I was wondering about that and ow it worked. I want to rid my pre-cats but they are like lead in the pipe and I can't see any way to gt them out except to cut up the header and heat shield. How did you get the out?
Tom- can you ram a long metal rod like rebar in there and break the cat matrix out? We used to do this to the 5.0 mustangs back in the 90’s.
I have tried drilling, hammering, poking, banging, screaming, and received a sore hand from hitting it with the hammer after missing the bar. The **** is metal and like tin foil, the more the bang it, the more like a ball of lead it becomes. I don't know what to do to get it out. I remember the old cats but I think that they are ceramic and brittle
There was a pic on here a few weeks ago, they cut a window in the side, then welded it back after removing the honeycomb
Yeah I did. See," https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/360-cat-delete-question.630321/#post-147495711" Image Unavailable, Please Login
Wow!! Thanks. Looks messy for for sure. I was thinking about making a boring tool out of a 2.25" OD pipe and then drilling a big hole in it. Then you might be able to chip away at it to get it out. Thanks for the direction at least I know more then I did before. Glad you remembered and could find the article.
If you do it this way be sure to prepare the patch properly and TIG weld it back on. A MIG makes a mess of it
I can see the importance of the TIG over the MIG and your point is well taken. MIG welding means grinding and TIG welding means a mice flat weld.
Half the MIG welds i see look like machine gun fire, I like to gas weld jobs like that but takes more time,but looks a lot better.
I agree. I have gotten some goo flat welds from a MIG welder but things have to be just right and at least 98% Argon 2% CO2