Help with Error Codes and 355 that died and would not start

Yeah... just realised.

So the "seizure" process wasn't instant. Temperature related? Coolant/lubrication problem.... or should you be able to restart the car when cooled in some cases?

These kinds of problems sound expensive

 

Not the earthing strap pic I was looking for, but here is at least one of the chassis earths

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There may be others.

 

My buddy's was tested as A+ as well. Optima's are a mess.
If it were me, I would try a different battery
Last time I'll pop in here....

 

Yes. I read where you said that the solenoid click and the starter hums but no crank. By first though was bad starter/battery. But that doesn't jive with the way the engine died in post #1. Not to panic, just a quick check to get that out of the way.

[edit] It could still be the battery but you did say it was tested good.

 

If a bad battery is dragging down the voltage of the entire electrical system, the ECUs might go undervoltage and cause those kinds of symptoms. ECUs don't like overvoltage, either. Could it be a bad battery/alternator combo?

 

Before I'd be worrying about ECU I want to figure out why it won't crank. The way it died suggest either electrical or mechanical issues. Just figure start with the mechanical. Eliminate one thing at a time.

 

Start with replacing the Optima battery with a standard type, Interstate of other brand.

 

Battery might work. If it doesn't, next step. I suggested first rocking before you spent money.

 

NAPA.

 

John is correct, NAPA is good choice. MFG by East Penn here is the USA.

 

AGM is safer, lighter and less hassle. They have a faster charge rate and they last longer in situations where the car is not used daily. Google "deep cycle". But they must be kept topped up. Don't let them discharge more than 30%. This will reduce their lifespan. Some have special charging requirements. Do you have a smart charger?

 

Wet - what came with these cars when new.

 

So I googled it.

 

By cranking battery, I think they mean one which will be used repetitively to turn an engine (say, on the same day) and in doing so drops the charge below 70%. With my battery on a trickle charger, my car starts first time, every time.

Another drawback of the AGM is that some older alternator/regulators don't always put out enough recharging volts for an AGM battery when driving. If you repetitively do this without putting your car back on a trickle charge, then you might lower the battery voltage over time. If you treat the AGM battery well, it should last much longer than a "wet" battery.

 

Actually the quote was from article discussing automotive (cranking) batteries to AGM deep cycle batteries. A more complete quote:

I know that in some modern Ferraris dealers are recommending deep cycle batteries as replacement because of the high current draw of all the electronics when the car is off because batter failure seem to occur frequently. But not the best choice if the above quote is correct. Sound more like a fix to a problem in engineering of the car's electical system in the first place.

 

When I had problems with my car last year it would still turn over below 12 volts on a gauge in the cigarette lighter.
Just check voltage at the back if it’s in the high 12s I would suggest listening to John and try too turn engine over.
Confirm it’s in neutral by rolling it, but I think if you put it in gear and rocked it you all ready know it was in neutral when attempting to start.
So back too John and confirm engine can rotate.

 

Battery voltage should drop when you crank the motor. How much is the question. Being pulled down to 9 V indicates a couple of possibilities. 1) The battery is shot and can not deliver enough current to turn the engine, or 2) the battery is good and delivering the current needed but the starter can not turn for some reason such as, starter shot, jammed, or being prevented from turning for some other reason. In either case, that the voltage drops when you try to start it would indicate to me that the solenoid is closing and you are dumping current through the starter motor winding.

 

Is this with the same battery? ....or did you put a new one in there yet?